On the way to work this morning the temperature gauge was at 'normal' within 4 minutes/~1 mile. Outside

temp is ~15C. No fast/harsh driving, just standard morning traffic at 30/40 MPH but with no hold ups.

 

It's quite consistent every morning.

 

Is this normal to warm up so fast?

 

 

 

 

What was the oil temp displaying 80-90degrees. I think the needle on my car reads a little ahead of the oil temp in my Maxidot. Will check and report back when I take the car out at lunch, mine gets to temp reasonably quick though.

The "temperature" gauge is a pseudo (placebo) gauge and probably indicates 90 when it has in all reality only just passed 70; I did do a back to back check a while back and as the water temp hits "90", then oil temp starts registering (i.e. above 50 deg) - which sounds about right to me.

 

Yep - about 5 minutes for me too.

I have noticed a huge difference between the analogue and digital oil temp readings - the analogue will very quickly show 90 after only a few miles. - the digital will take much longer to get to 80 even

I have decided to play it safe and wait for the digital to get to at least 85 before pushing on with the loud pedal

Better safe than sorry and assuming the digital is a more accurate reflection of the real oil temperature

Assumed the analogue was oil but reading above perhaps I am a numpty and it is water?

What has the water temp (analog) got to do with the digital oil temp indication??

 

And yes, water temp reaches 90 in maybe 3-4 minutes while for the oil, I have to wait around 10, or even more If I'm driving slowly in Auto.

as above, (i was typing slow.)

 

The temperature is that of the Coolant, and the Thermostat stays closed until the coolant gets to the good temperature,

Coolant flows around the engine Block, and then opens. Then the coolant will go to the radiator & around the system.

Around 82*oC on many vehicles, different thermostats for different engines and engine types..

 

I think you will find that your oil takes longer to get to a shown 50*C then to 88*oC then 90-92 plus.

at an ambient 15*oC maybe 5 miles to get to showing 50*oC on the oil and 10-15 miles till it gets to 88*oC and the fuel economy then picks up.

 

The coolant warms & cools the oil. First job is to get up to temperature, then after that always bring it back down and keeping the oil and engine from getting too hot.

 

george

 

PS,

it is not Water (not straight H20), Coolant has different Freezing and Boiling points than water,

it is a fluid under pressure, and that also changes boiling points.

Thankyou George for the education - I knew I joined this forum for a reason!!!!!

The oil does lag behind by a few minutes, which is to be expected.

 

My Octy took about 10-15 minutes for the temp gauge to reach normal.

 

I hope it warms up this fast in the winter!

It take almost the same time for the coolant to warm up in ambient temperatures below 0*oC

 

But it might be the case that you drive in town for 5 miles and the oil never shows 50*oc,

and the petrol gets drunk at around 25mpg or worse.

 

It was 5*oC here early yesterday morning and it was 20 miles before my oil showed 88*oC & the Average fuel got up to 43 mpg.

the day before same route, same speed, that happened in 12 miles. but it was 12*0C ambient.

 

george

PS,

it is not Water (not straight H20), Coolant has different Freezing and Boiling points than water,

it is a fluid under pressure, and that also changes boiling points.

 

Obviously not. But it's usually referred to as "water" due to the fact it mainly consists of such (more than 50%)..

That is the error many make and the biggest cause of engine failures now,

people not knowing the difference of HOAT and OAT Coolants and Waterless Coolants, and putting Water in Systems that do not have Water in any more. So no 50/50 with H20.

(VAG does, but many do not.)

 

george

I wasn't making a general point, I thought we were always talking about a Skoda Fabia!

 

I wouldn't feel sorry for anyone who say sees a dash light coming on, decides to open the bonnet having absolutely no clue what's going on there and thinks, "hey let's add some water in that bottle, seems to be reaching the LOW level" even though his car is using a water less coolant!

Edited 24 September, 201312 yr by newbie69

I was making a general point when i said it was not water. Having been brought up never to call it Water unless it is water.

 

The first hot days of this years UK summer had a RAC Spokesperson on the BBC telling people about their cars and the possibility of overheating and what to do.

& he said in an emergency you can let it cool down and then add water.

No mention that some might have Waterless Systems. They do have coolant, just not with H20 in it.

 

There was a apology/correction made later to point out that if some did that the system would be possibly not only need the problem fixed but the system drained, flushed and the correct Coolant refilled.

Many in the car trade use the term Coolant because it is not only a recent problem with customers or even RAC Spokespeople.

Anti Freeze, is also a Summer Coolant and importantly a Rust Inhibitor which is pretty important to the cooling qualities.

and Straight Water being added, not Distilled (none contaminated.) is a pretty bad thing

 

george

 

"in an emergency water would be better than nothing"

http://rac.co.uk/advice/car-knowledge/videos/checking-engine-coolant

(in some cars maybe expensive and from the Far East, that advice can cost you a fortune, but better to get off a unsafe road than sit there at risk.)

If adding water because thats the coolant type in the engine/system, best not to use Tap Water.

http://www.theaa.com/motoring_advice/general-advice/antifreeze-coolant.html

Mine warms up pretty quickly too. I notice a distinct difference from when I'm taking it very easy to using a bit more accelerator peddle as well. This will be due to heat caused by boost.

However as previously stated the temp gauges on cars are weighted and biased at 90. A cars coolant temps will very rarely (if ever) sit at exactly 90 degrees and stay there. They constantly fluctuate, sometimes over and sometimes under but to keep the generic driver from panicking if it starts to creep over they are programmed to point at 90 from anywhere in the (and I don't know exact figures) 75-100 degree range. This means when the needle does start to rise too high the driver should take the corrective action at the right time, rather than during a "sat in traffic" fluctuation for example.

My point is that at the point the needle says the car has warmed up, after only a few minutes, it's probably at 75 degrees or so not 90.

 

As far as I'm aware your car sounds to be operating normally.