Ok since the combe action day, my car has had an issue.

 

On the 2nd session I started to hear and feel some clonking when cornering, it was reasonably bad, but not so bad that I had to end the session early, and it didn't stop me from driving home either, at the same time as the clonking started, I noticed the steering wheel was off centre too, if I turned left the it would centre again to go in a straight line, but after turning right, the steering wheel is off centre to the right to go in a straight line.

 

I took the car to the garage that fitted the powerflex bushes for me, on the monday morning after the action day, and they checked it all over.

All they found wrong was that the n/s lower arm was slightly loose, so they removed the bolt, put some thread lock on it and torqued it up again.

 

Anyhow the clonking was gone, but the steering still wasn't quite right, but I figured if they have messed with the lower arm, the wheel alignment is prob out now, and there was no point in paying to do that again, as my new top mounts are on the way.

 

However I have now fitted the new top mounts (silver project adjustable top mounts), and had the wheel alignment done, I had the toe set to 0.00 - 0.00 camber is 1.5° each side and the caster is as equal as we could get it and the steering wheel was straight, during the alignment.

 

However after driving to R-tech yesterday for there charity rolling road day (just went to watch, not to take part), the car felt dangerous on the road, at motorway speeds.

 

The car will pull left gently on light (cruising) throttle, but if you plant it, the car pull left HARD, but it wasn't violent, just kind of felt like it was disconnected I guess, I found myself turning right just to keep it in a straight line, but then when I let off the power, I would have to steer it back to the left again.

 

Very very odd sensation.

 

Sorry for waffling here, but I really don't know where to start with this 1, as i've never had it with any car before.

 

If you can imagine the steering wheel is straight at 9 and 3 position (clock face), if on light throttle, it will stay like that to go straight, but on hard throttle, you would have to turn the wheel to the 11 and 5 position to keep it going straight.

 

After a left hand corner (cruising again), 9 and 3 = straight, after a right hander, 10 and 4 = straight.

 

There is also some clonking again that I can feel in the floorpan on the drivers side, but not sure if the clonking is from the left or right, or both, but you can only hear this after hard braking, and then again when pulling away.

 

Sorry not the easiest thing to try and describe.

 

Has anyone come across anything like this before, or have any idea's where to look ?

 

The car was polybushed a couple of days before combe, with powerflex black series (solid rear wishbone bushes), the only rubber bushes that haven't been changed are the front dogbone mount as I don't have a 15mm drill bit, and the left and right engine / gearbox mounts and the 4 subframe bushes.

 

 

Tyre pressure buddy. Please check near side front.

I had a light left pulling because of the low height

 

Give my coilovers a little height and my car feels better when accelerating hard

Tyre pressure buddy. Please check near side front.

 

Knew I forgot to add something.

 

Tyre pressures are ok (infact it was the same with the track wheels and tyres, and the road wheels and tyres, the road tyres are also brand new).

 

So 2 different sets of wheels and tyres, but same problem.

I had a light left pulling because of the low height

 

Give my coilovers a little height and my car feels better when accelerating hard

 

Car has been the same height for about 6 months, all was fine until 2nd track session a couple of weeks back.

Clutching at straws really but have you checked RARB ?

Clutching at straws really but have you checked RARB ?

 

It's still there lol.

 

Looks like it's connected as it should be.

 

But don't see how it could cause the clonking I can hear and feel under my feet, under heavy braking, or pulling away.

Have you checked subframe bolts and subframe bushes

Also check rack bolts

Have you checked subframe bolts and subframe bushes

Also check rack bolts

 

Apparently it was all checked, and the only thing that was found to be loose, was the n/s/f wishbone, which was torqued up again.

 

I haven't checked it myself yet.

Years ago,I had a mk1 Astra gte,

That would pull badly to the left..

It wasn't until I removed the bottom arm,that I could see that the hole in the chassis was elongated..causing it to move in out.

"Might" be worth checking...especially if it was lose..

I spoke to the garage that fitted the bushes again, they told me to drop it into them tomorrow and they will check it over again for me.

 

I just want it to drive straight lol.

I was gonna say subframe bolt might have sheared,would still be "tight" if you try to nip it up,but may be moving around under cornering loads due to not enough engaged threads?

Could it also be track rod related?

On another note,my left front inner cv boot died at Combe....might be worth a shout?

I was gonna say subframe bolt might have sheared,would still be "tight" if you try to nip it up,but may be moving around under cornering loads due to not enough engaged threads?

Could it also be track rod related?

 

I will get them to check the subframe closely, I did wonder about track rod, but then I wouldn't feel the clunking in the floorpan from that under braking or pulling away.

 

On another note,my left front inner cv boot died at Combe....might be worth a shout?

 

Already checked the n/s/f cv boot, I check that after every track session now as i've had 2 cv joints fail at combe this year already lol.

Both times it was the cv boot melting, however my mate has had the inner 1 fail on his cupra, so I always check both now lol.

Could it be the inner end of the track rod,where it attaches to the rack?

You may feel that with stiffer bushes in place,maybe?

Yeh will get them to check the rack, and track rods / ends tomorrow too.

Having had the same experience several times over the last few weeks I can tell you bud it is your drive shaft/ cv joint going. I have both available, brand new as Mine  was replaced then went straight away, i have other issues. lol. but garage is replacing it under warranty and I am making changes so have two brand new ones if you want fella? one for each side. in about a week.

I would suggest checking that the track control arm bushes haven't moved.

Having had the same experience several times over the last few weeks I can tell you bud it is your drive shaft/ cv joint going. I have both available, brand new as Mine  was replaced then went straight away, i have other issues. lol. but garage is replacing it under warranty and I am making changes so have two brand new ones if you want fella? one for each side. in about a week.

 

I don't think it's cv joint (could be wrong though), but if it is, then it's under warranty anyway and was only replaced 2 months ago, when the previous one failed 2 months before that lol.

 

I would suggest checking that the track control arm bushes haven't moved.

 

They will be getting checked tomorrow, but they are new powerflex black series, so can't imagine they would have moved as there so stiff to fit.

I don't think it's cv joint (could be wrong though), but if it is, then it's under warranty anyway and was only replaced 2 months ago, when the previous one failed 2 months before that lol.

 

 

They will be getting checked tomorrow, but they are new powerflex black series, so can't imagine they would have moved as there so stiff to fit.

Mine was inner that had gone both times.

A broken cv joint would normally give a constant rthymic knocking rather than a one off.

I've had a bush move on a golf before but that was on oem type which is press fitted, if I recall the power flex ones have flanges to stop them moving but it's worth checking them anyway.

Well I took it to the garage earlier, they put it on the ramp, there is no play in any wheels, bearings, bushes etc.

 

The only thing that was "slightly" loose was the rear right, front subframe bolt, and buy slightly I mean less than 1/4 turn.

 

They have done this up tight, checked all other bolts (which were fine), and they have now marked all bolts with paint, so we can keep an eye on it.

 

There was no play in the steering either, both driveshafts / cv joints seem fine too.

 

Back on the road, the steering feels more how it should, it's a little heavier and more positive.

 

The occasional clonk seems to have gone and the steering wheel seems to return to centre much better now too.

 

However it still turns left under hard acceleration :(, if I hold the wheel it's not too bad, but if I let go, it tries to put me in a ditch still (no I don't make a habbit of letting go of the steering wheel at speed, but it shouldn't be trying to drag me off the road if I do).

 

I am not having to turn the wheel as far right as before, but it's still not as it should be.

Might be worth replacing the subframe bolts/bushes maybe?

It'll be interesting to see what they look like if/when they come out!

Strange how 1/4 turn has made such a difference?!

Might be worth replacing the subframe bolts/bushes maybe?

It'll be interesting to see what they look like if/when they come out!

Strange how 1/4 turn has made such a difference?!

 

If it (they) come loose again then I might have to do that (reluctant to do it that at the moment as i'll have to get the wheel alignment done AGAIN lol).

 

Now that the steering feels more positive, I will try swapping the front wheels from side to side, to see if anything changes.

Well swapping the front wheels from side to side, hasn't changed anything.

 

How can I tell if it's the diff causing the problem ?