A few wild guesses here dude.

 

 

- Lower wishbone ball joint.

Checked with wheels in the air, and also checked again today on MOT shaker plates with weight of the car on them, no problems found.

 

- check wheel alignment , get 4 wheel alignment and this will fix and camber related issues that a wrongly adjusted wishbone ball joint may of caused.

Wheel alignment done last week, camber, caster and toe all spot on.

 

- Could Suspension top mounts and bearing be worn or seizing one side and forcing a pull on load.

Brand new Silver Project adjustable "solid" top mount fitted, and no change to the way the car drives.

 

- Could suspension be adjusted different on one side?

Both sides on same no. of threads and at the same height.

 

- Could one side of suspension be wearing slightly different allowing car to dip more one side when under load and cause steering to pull  

Possible, but both sides feel as stiff as eachother when trying to bounce the car, and settle the same too.

 

- track rods ends or inner steering rods worn

No play found when jacked up, or when on the MOT shaker plates with the weight of the car on them.

Ok front to rear movement doesn't seem too bad, but there is a reasonable amount of side to side movement, which is mainly noticeable in the lhs engine (gearbox) mount.

 

There is probably twice as much movement compared to the LCR engine mounts.

 

This is just rocking by hand, i've not tried it with the engine running and handbrake on yet.

 

Bear in mind the engine mounts can break in two basic ways, the rubber inside breaking down and the engine mount bolts snapping

 

If the engine moves alot by hand, or when sat idling/revving it might indicate worn rubber inside the mounts

 

As for broken bolts, jack under the engine or hoist, then looking to see if the engine mounts are are lifting with the engine from underneath (that's left and right mounts)

Ok just to update this.

 

A few people said that the problem would be the front wishbone bush, as the bolt had come loose it would have allowed the arm to move enough to wear the bush out and thus allow movement under load.

So this morning it was replaced with a brand new Powerflex Black series bush, and nothing has changed (old bush looks fine too), and I even have a brand new bolt fitted (seeing as I replaced the subframe bolts last week it seemed right).

 

The garage did say, the the subframe is very slightly ovaled where the bolt for the rear bush goes through, but it's done up VFT and they can't see that being the problem.

 

So that leaves me with only the cv joints (no noise or feeling of joints failing, or locking) the steering rack itself, or this minor bit of ovaling of the subframe.

 

OR.................

 

Could it still be a diff issue ????? (I can draw no.11's but does that prove that the diff is not at fault ?)

Could it still be a diff issue ????? (I can draw no.11's but does that prove that the diff is not at fault ?)

highly unlikely imho

but why not phone up wavetrac and ask them if there's any way their diff could get worn/damaged in such a way as to cause the effects you've got

highly unlikely imho

but why not phone up wavetrac and ask them if there's any way their diff could get worn/damaged in such a way as to cause the effects you've got

 

I'll change the subframe and see how it goes.

Did you sus it out in the end? 

The old subframe was pretty bad where the rear wishbone mounting hole had gone oval,

 

I had a new subframe fitted and the car still drove badly.

 

But after having the wheel alignment done again (for the 3rd or 4th time) the car now seems to drive ok.