inspectorman

Start with simple things; wheel nuts tight? Tyre pressures correct? Intermittent faults hard to diagnose. Discs don't warp - commonly it's pad material transfer to the disc. Hard braking followed by holding the brake on is how that happens. Beyond that - since you happy with the calipers / pads - I imagine you'd be looking at all the suspension joints / bushes.

UK 1.5 SEL delivered in Oct 2020. All looks identical. Address 75: Telematics (J949) Part No SW: 5WA 035 284 A HW: 5WA 035 284 A Component: OCU3HMQB37W H12 0075

All LED bubs for 12V systems will have a "driver" because LEDs don't work on 12V. Probably as simple as a resistor to limit voltage but sometimes more complex - especially on the more expensive, higher power ones. As warrior193 said, the boot / interior lights are just dumb bulbs, not affected by CANBUS issues, unlike headlights / tail lights. I usually get the flatter profile ones for this job. The last lot I bought did require a little trimming of the clear soft transparent plastic around them to fit the boot light holder but at £2.24 for ten I wasn't complaining.

W5W incandescent bulbs are 50-80 lumens light output. You could put these LEDs in - £4 for ten - and the manufacturer claims 800 lumens. Tenfold increase in luminous flux. Current draw 0.6W. No need to fight the connector wars.

Warrior193 is on the money here. I have no idea why Skoda - even now on brand new cars - are still fitting lights with W5W bulbs. Maybe they bought eleventy billion ten years ago. They're also guilty of changing the connector to the light unit randomly, too. With a bit of cunning the light fitting can be disassembled to get to the W5W bulb. Not all LED bulbs will fit, but they're cheap enough to try 2 or three models. These photos are from a 2020 Octavia 4. The 2026 Kamiq I have also done was even easier to dismantle - just a snap fit thin plastic cover. But I like also the 12V Led strip idea.

Is this red cog part of the actuator? This is from a writeup on a Fabia which may be helpful. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/534097-replacing-recirculation-flap-motor/

It may well be the tailgate dampers - the spring loaded blocks. Skoda issued updated blocks to my rattly 2020 saloon - there had been a recall. Simple enough job to change if the dealer gets them for you. 5ja827249b Wedge buffer.

The market has determined that some kind of fragrance is expected to mask the odour of the solvent carriers and fungicide / bactericide / biocide. Additionally, there is a slight risk of allergic reactions to some of these substances. But they may claim a standard of effectiveness - for example EN1276 specifies 99.99% death to bacteria and microorganisms. EN14476 is another standard relevant here. Best to treat the car and then leave it overnight. Plenty to choose from.

A helpful summary. Printed with a couple of the photos in my glovebox ready for the point I can't put up with the weirdness anymore.

VAG recommends you use a VAG specific product. How surprising. Most of the questions you have can be answered by working out what is meant to be sliding on what? Any temperature or environmental constraints? What type of loading? PS Someone who works in a bodyshop is not a lubrication specialist.

You do know more than you think. Hinges, for example, are ancient technology and white lithium or black molybdenum grease will be perfectly fine. On very dry joints I might spray a little thinner grease to help the heavier stuff get in. Wipe off excess afterwards and you're done. The thinner grease I have to hand is Wurth HHS 2000. Good penetration and good adhesion / durability - something WD40 doesn't have. Bonnet release catches are regularly checked but door / boot locks hardly ever unless I notice stiffness. Sunroofs are tricky things with many different requirements. Here's a summary from Krytox of all the challenges you face. ISTR the VW Eos convertible had issues with its roof which were only ameliorated by liberal use of a Krytox product (at vast expense when branded by VW). Dow Corning do make a special lubricant for this kind of application but very hard to find any retail quantities (Molykote G-1033). grease oil lubrication sunroof systems.pdf

I would begin with the aftermarket immobiliser. Often they are hateful little things and sometimes incorrectly installed. But I see your Zeder is just a mechanical device so cannot be part of your issue except for the buzzer. Try disconnecting that. Then my first step would be the correction of your faulty steering wheel. Your parasitic draw suggestion is the right one. But it seems to be intermittent. As far as aftermarket GPS trackers are concerned, you should be looking for any extra wires or piggyback connectors. Easy to say, hard to do. Favourite locations for these would be the fuse and relay blocks. Good luck.

The 2019 workshop manual refers to a special VW tool - T10165 - which just winds the piston back in. The Hilka tool looks as if it does the same job.