Ive had a look through a couple of threads about timing chains and DIY etc etc, and i want to know how hard it would be to do it myself or with a little help?

 

I reckon id be looking about £300 for a garage to do the work, thats money i really dont have to hand.

 

So if i were to go it alone or if i were to ask for a little help from a friend or fellow briskodian with a little more knowledge... Is it possible?

 

Thanks!  

You might want to narrow down your location a little. I don't have specific experience of timing chains, but I'd be happy to help, but only if you were reasonably local.

You might want to narrow down your location a little. I don't have specific experience of timing chains, but I'd be happy to help, but only if you were reasonably local.

Im from Littleover way in Derby mate

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

Again to clarify, any knowledge or ideas that i need to know, any tools i will need or anything? I simply just need to get it fixed as cheap as possible

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

Never done the 1.4 but the 1.2 is a pain in the arss and no way a DIY job on the driveway!

Never done the 1.4 but the 1.2 is a pain in the arss and no way a DIY job on the driveway!

 

 

Thanks hutchy, i was talking to someone with a felicia 1.3 (same engine but made slightly bigger for power steering) and they said theyve done theres in a weekend on the drive?

I did the timing belt on my old TDI Octavia at home on the drive over a weekend. I can't see the chain on a petrol being as bad. I'm over near Long Eaton so not far from you.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

Timing belt is easy, chain the side casing needs to be removed.

Timing belt is easy, chain the side casing needs to be removed.

 

 

Fair enough, given the instructions for the octy tdi start with: "Remove the off side headlight", followed by half the contents of the engine bay, I assumed it would be simpler as there is less gubbins in the way.

As the 1.4 MPI 8V is over Head valve with push rods, the timing chain n sprockets is actually quite small.

 

 

Basically its drain oil, drain coolant (IIRC i had to move the lower coolant pipe to gain proper access to sump bolts)

 

take the aux belt off (easier on models without AC).

 

I then went about removing the starter motor to fix the flywheel in place with a screwdriver, but i since then learnt that VAG recommend using an M6x40mm Screw and an M6 Nut, with the tip filed to a 60 degree point, then removed the hall sensor on the top of the gear box which measures the RPM of the flywheel, and then screw the M6x40mm screw in (with the M6 nut already threaded on). the 60 degree point locates between the flywheel teeth and locks the crank in place. then tighten the M6 nut down on the gear box to stop it from coming loose.

 

drop the sump, clean up mating surfaces (silicon sealant). As previously mentioned, i think i had to remove/move a coolant pipe to do this.

 

then removed the Crank shaft bolt/pulley (alot easier with the crank locked in place)

 

Remove the oil pickup/oil pump.

 

Remove the Timing chain cover, clean surfaces, will need a new gasket or silicon sealant upon refitting.

Remove the Oil Pump worm gear/drive

 

undo the cam shaft bolt.

 

remove the old timing chain (i think the woodruff keys need to come out first)

Align the new timing chain (12 chain links between the two markers on the new sprockets)

 

At this point i also undid the engine mounts (engine to chassis and engine to subframe) to allow the engine to drop down (using a trolley jack, to keep it safe) giving you better access to the timing chain area. 

 

Fit the timing chain, also check runout to make sure they are aligned vertically

Fit the woodruff keys.

 

then re assemble. Loctite must also be used on the threads of the Crank Shaft pully bolt.

 

Haynes manual is worded as if you are doing a full engine strip down which sometimes confused me as it recomended that the engine was in TDC for Cylinder 1, but i did not see how this was of use to me. But i did it anyway, I removed the spark plug from Cylinder No.1 and put a long rod into the cylinder and found the lowest peak. i.e. when the piston was its highest, my rod would be lower (as it was acting as a seesaw, pivoting on the spark plug hole)

 

 

Regarding difficulty/skill requirement, I had only been driving 8 months when i did it, i wasnt the most hands on/experienced with doing car maintenance, but i did it.

 

I then went about removing the starter motor to fix the flywheel in place with a screwdriver, but i since then learnt that VAG recommend using an M6x40mm Screw and an M6 Nut, with the tip filed to a 60 degree point, then removed the hall sensor on the top of the gear box which measures the RPM of the flywheel, and then screw the M6x40mm screw in (with the M6 nut already threaded on). the 60 degree point locates between the flywheel teeth and locks the crank in place. then tighten the M6 nut down on the gear box to stop it from coming loose.

 

 

Wow, that's a really good idea. I didn't know about that.

  The sump is off anyway, so if you need to lock the crank to undo the crank pulley bolt use the wooden end of your hammer to wedge between crank and block. No point undoing stuff un-necessarily, the more you take off the more there is to refit and the more chances of something going wrong.

 

Every job requires a hammer, even to change fuses and bulbs.