Green wheel nuts will look smart pal

I think I am going to just keep mine totally standard - with the exception of the head unit and my sub

JRJG

Right.

So since I replaced the disks and pads, the brake performance has improved a little (seemingly, at least) and the unpleasant grinding noises I experienced before have gone completely.  I'm pretty happy that I did everything correctly and everything was put back together right.

 

However, yesterday I visited my brother who has a moderately steep drive. Half an hour after parking up, a gentleman rang the doorbell to inform us that our car was in the middle of the road.  With the handbrake applied, and pulled up around 3-4 clicks on its ratchet, the car (apparently fairly suddenly) had rolled into the road ahead of oncoming traffic.  I feel immensely lucky that there was no accident as it's not a well lit stretch of road - someone must have reacted very well, but I'm obviously pretty shaken about the handbrake.

Putting the car back on the drive we found that again, with the handbrake pulled up to 3-4 clicks it held initially, but the car started to move, it was only pulling it up by 5 or 6 steps on the ratchet that it was secure - this seems exceptionally high for only a moderate incline, particularly as the handbrake held well at first, but then seemed to lost tension/grip

 

I'm aware the handbrake on the Fabia cannot be adjusted, so does anyone have any ideas of what might cause it to fail in this way and what I should be inspecting or looking at?

 

EDIT:

Forgot the slightly more bizarre bit - after it rolled into the road last night, it was eeeeeasy to pull the hand brake up to its full travel. By the time we had driven home though, dragging it up past 4 clicks took a fair amount of effort.   Any thoughts?

Edited 2 May, 201412 yr by Maieth

Did you fit the assisting springs mentioned above?

 

If your handbrake mechanism is not returning fully to the off position the caliper will not auto adjust and will cause issue's. 

 

Presume you don't leave the car in gear?

 

On cars with the handbrake mech built into the caliper it makes sense to leave the car in gear, as if the rear brakes are hot when you apply the handbrake it will hold ok, then as the brakes cool off the brakes can loose there grip

Did you fit the assisting springs mentioned above?

 

If your handbrake mechanism is not returning fully to the off position the caliper will not auto adjust and will cause issue's. 

 

Presume you don't leave the car in gear?

 

On cars with the handbrake mech built into the caliper it makes sense to leave the car in gear, as if the rear brakes are hot when you apply the handbrake it will hold ok, then as the brakes cool off the brakes can loose there grip

 

As Coskev says i found when doing the handbrake mod it did make a significant change to the amount of clicks needed to hold the car on an step drive, ours went from 6-7 clicks to 3-4.

I have read (can't remember if it was the owners manual or the Haynes manual) that the handbrake can be adjusted? At least I thought I had?

It mentioned about the handbrake coming on fully after four clicks, and if it doesn't and takes more clicks then it needs adjusting.

JRJG

I had an extreme amount of noise believed to be coming from the rear-end.

Replaced both sides at rear with new bearings/hub c/o E-Bay about £58.00 total.

Ended-up that one tyre was badly worn, so swapped-it for my new spare and car was then quiet as a mouse sorta-kinda thing..LOL

 

Definitely look at tyres first, and inspect the rear wheel bearings by spinning the wheel listening for any sound that should-not be there..

Also regarding wheel bearings;

Movement in a different axis - pulling the wheel towards you/away from the car, some movement can signal bearing deterioration.

Or does the Fabia use solid bearings?

JRJG

Did you fit the assisting springs mentioned above?

 

If your handbrake mechanism is not returning fully to the off position the caliper will not auto adjust and will cause issue's. 

 

Presume you don't leave the car in gear?

 

On cars with the handbrake mech built into the caliper it makes sense to leave the car in gear, as if the rear brakes are hot when you apply the handbrake it will hold ok, then as the brakes cool off the brakes can loose there grip

 

Skoda rang me yesterday to let me know the springs had arrived so I will try and find time at the weekend to do that mod. It makes sense that if the handbrake doesn't fully disengage on one use, the next time it won't be brought up to tension properly. As for the leaving the car in gear, I used to do this all the time just as a precaution (you take a lot of 'precautions' owning a classic mini), I'm not sure why I've got out of the habit, but it's certainly something to get used to doing again.

 

I had an extreme amount of noise believed to be coming from the rear-end.

Replaced both sides at rear with new bearings/hub c/o E-Bay about £58.00 total.

Ended-up that one tyre was badly worn, so swapped-it for my new spare and car was then quiet as a mouse sorta-kinda thing..LOL

 

Definitely look at tyres first, and inspect the rear wheel bearings by spinning the wheel listening for any sound that should-not be there..

 

 

Also regarding wheel bearings;

Movement in a different axis - pulling the wheel towards you/away from the car, some movement can signal bearing deterioration.

Or does the Fabia use solid bearings?

JRJG

 

 

The car has been on new tires for several weeks now. The noise form the rear was gone instantly and never came back. Done.

Finally got my handbrake return springs fitted at the weekend - amazing difference! It's so nice to feel the handbrake biting straight away. Feels like my mini's does when it's just been tightened way, way up.  For under £15 these springs are a superb little mod.

 

So my next question is....   what next?

 

I mean, I know that's pretty vague, but I've now done everything I wanted to when I got the car:

I've replaced the rear discs and pad and put a full set of levely new boots on the car, the cambelt's sorted, I've had the wheels refurbished and repainted, I've replaced the manky trim that I wanted to, I have badges from Pasty ready to go on, the handbrake springs are done and I have a replacement coolant expansion tank ready to be fitted (waiting to see if I get another warning light first - hasn't happened for a month now I've spent the money!). 

A major service is coming up, but as far as I can tell, that's all the 'putting right' sorted.

 

So if you guys had a pretty much stock VRS, what would be the mods most worth saving up for and tackling first?  From time spent browsing the forum there are popular options, such as lowered springs, adding a front ARB, uprated front discs (312 mod?), EGR delete (not sold on that) and obviously there is the potential to remap, but what would you look at first?

I probably won't remap for a while as the added insurance cost is pretty steep until I've owned the car a while, but as with many enthusiasts, it's always nice to be thinking ahead to the next addition or upgrade and at the moment I don't know where to go next.

The biggest difference you can make to the car is to sort the handling with stiffer springs and shocks and replace those crummy standard console bushes, follow this with a rear ARB since your front is fine as standard, don't worry about the brakes until you're remapped at the very least.

Edited 20 May, 201412 yr by sepulchrave

I had the plastic cover off the centre console last week and there is definitely an adjusting nut on the handbrake which could be used to adjust travel. I wish I'd done it really but I was in a hurry to do something else. Fairly easy to get the centre console out and it was even easier for me as I had the seats out to get rid of my redundant auto changer and fit some soundproofing under the carpets. 

I started off by putting 312's on, then some styling mods (colour coded the door handles, de-chromed the grill and Lamin-X on the headlights) Next was coilovers and Powerflex bushes for the ARB, wishbones and lower engine mount and finished off with the power increase with EGR delete, FMIC and PD160 air intake.

 

Personally, I would get your car set up for the increase in power before remapping/turbo upgrade

 

EDIT: replaced the drop links and top mount at the same time as the suspension and bushes (thanks for reminding me Coskev)

Personally, I would get your car set up for the increase in power before remapping/turbo upgrade

 

Definitely.  I'm always astounded at people who wilfully ignore that advice and chuck loads of money at getting more power without thinking about how the car is going to put it down or what they are relying on to slow down/stop afterwards.

The biggest difference you can make to the car is to sort the handling with stiffer springs and shocks and replace those crummy standard console bushes, follow this with a rear ARB since your front is fine as standard, don't worry about the brakes until you're remapped at the very least.

 

If i'm looking at starting with the popular Eibach 25mm springs over standard shocks (for the time being, would move up to Bilsteins or similar if possible), does anything else need fitting at the same time to adjust the camber? 

I'm doing a lot of reading, but this level of suspension set up is relatively new to me - I've done a lot of work on the mini, but with just a shock absorber and a couple of ball joins, there's not a huge amount to learn.

I'm in the same position as yourself with my car, doing little upgrades and brake change recently. Glad you swapped to the Eagle F1's, they are the best shoes for the money as I advised.

 

I'm going the lowering route myself, Eibach or H&R are the way if keeping stock shocks. You can spend big (£350 plus) and go for good coilovers but i'm not sold on them myself, after fitting some to my Golf TDi 130 last year. Personally unless they are top notch Coilovers, i don't think they are beefy enough - just my opinion. I think that if you do get some Eibach lowering springs, also buy new shocks. At least take off one of your old shocks, and see what they are like in terms of response (i.e if you can easily push the shock absorber together with your hands, its bladdered and needs to be changed). It could be a major dissapointment fitting new springs over tired shocks. Easy to remove the rear shocks, trickier on the front but still fairly easy. Bush & braces next, ready for your remap.

It will then feel complete...

 

I'm already looking at a double din App Radio for mine, to stream media from my M8. Ive started carbon fibre vinyl on the interior, as well as outside door LED's (see my how to guide).

Oh yeah, forgot stereo. That was one of the first things to get dumped.  Put a tasty pioneer unit in for DAB and Aux connection.

If i'm looking at starting with the popular Eibach 25mm springs over standard shocks (for the time being, would move up to Bilsteins or similar if possible), does anything else need fitting at the same time to adjust the camber? 

I'm doing a lot of reading, but this level of suspension set up is relatively new to me - I've done a lot of work on the mini, but with just a shock absorber and a couple of ball joins, there's not a huge amount to learn.

 

I would strongly advise getting the front shocks fitted at the same time as the springs since you'll pay for the labour twice otherwise, no other work is needed and you can fit the rear springs and shocks yourself very easily to save money.

New strut top mounts/bearings with the struts

And also probably worth getting ARB droplinks too.

Definitely.  I'm always astounded at people who wilfully ignore that advice and chuck loads of money at getting more power without thinking about how the car is going to put it down or what they are relying on to slow down/stop afterwards.

 

I agree 110% Safety first