Changing Discs and pads

[Nerd]

Been a bit busy and haven't posted for a while.

 

Just trying to change the discs on the VRS and the carrier bolts seem locked in there. They are standard threads and not counter clocks aren't they? Literally snapped 2 sockets on them so far (Halfords so ok lol). If they're normal threads then I guess it's see if I can nick a butane torch of someone and knock hell out of em.

 

If someone's done it just let me know I'm trying to loosen the right way

[VRade]

They are tight!

 

Soak them in WD40 for a few mins and crack them off with a big bar

[Nerd]

CHeers Mark, aye, done the WD40, knock crap out of them to get it to work in and still not budging a mm. Already bent a hammer (just a small one) and snapped 2 sockets knocking them off, time to go purchase a trusty lump hammer from the shop as the missus appears to have made mine disappear.

[VRade]

Undo the slider bolts.

 

7mm allen and pull the caliper off.

[Nerd]

Calipers are off, it's the carriers that are stuck on

[VRade]

I used my big bar to crack them off, didnt seem that tight.

 

Should be anti-clockwise to undo as usual.

 

Get yourself a bar i say!

[Nerd]

No room for decent sized bar- for the lower one yeah but not too much room for the top one. USed a small bar and snapped a socket earlier.

 

Still nothing using a lump hammer bar sore fingers keeping the spanner in place...ffs, it's getting right on my tits now

[BrownBarge]

Front or rears? Mine were easy, maybe they had been off before tho. If in doubt get the blow torch out

[VRade]

I got my 800mm bar in there! plenty of room chief! 

[Nerd]

NOwhere near enough room for a 800mm bar in there. Given up for the day before I lose my temper. Lifting the car off the axel stand it's so wedged in. Quick ring round for a blow torch then try again

[meaty101]

Iir they are loctited in from the factory plus years of road grime so aye they'll be tight. By the way, if you've kept your receipts for your tools from halfords take them back for a refund. They won't quibble. I bought a new extendable wheel brace from there a few months back, used it once and the tip snapped clean off. Took it back no problems. The tools are **** from there now buddy.

[Nerd]

These were from an ancient halfords socket set I must've got 20 years ago (if not longer).

 

Annoying as the rears took 5 minutes to do and didn't even need the carrier taking off, just the calipers...bloody things

[Liverpool-Lad]

Can you not get away without removing the carrier?  I removed mine but it was on a 2 post ramp so access was easier.

[Ray Luxury-Yacht]

Mate, if you're busting tools - you need to stop, take a breath, and approach the problem with a different method.

 

Been working on cars (and rusty Jeeps, lol) for longer than I care to think.

 

Simple fact of the matter is, if a fastener won't crack off, then you need heat, and lots of it. Otherwise, trying to do it cold, you'll just break tools and possibly injure yourself!

 

An oxy-acetyline torch is the gold standard for heating up and removing rusty / solid fasteners.  But if you don''t have access to one then a decent blow torch will suffice.

 

I have been using blow torches to undo stuff for years. BUT you do need a decent one - good ones have a nice, tight, focused flame that you can direct onto the seized parts. Cheap ones just flame everywhere and start to burn stuff you don't want burned like cables and brake lines, lol!

 

The rusty fastener and / or whatever it is bolted in to, needs to be glowing RED HOT. THEN you can try to crack it off with a socket etc. It will come, trust me...

[VRade]

Heat is the king.

 

I jacked my car as high as it will go and broke the bolts off from underneath the car.

 

 

Though at work i just use my Ingersoll rand impact gun. 800ft-lbs of torqy torq 

[Tech1e]

I got my 800mm bar in there! plenty of room chief! 

 

Me too, plenty of room. Come from underneath upwards.