That pinch bolt

[098Joe]

I just changed outer cv boot drivers side at the weekend, it must have taken about 6-7 hours in total.  Strangely the pinch bolt was the easiest bit!  Fairly sure it has been in there since new, and it did take a good three hours  and half a tin of plus gas, but it came out in the end.  I think what also helped was finding a thick washer just the right size to hammer into the slot nearest the bolt head, this has the effect of fractionally (0.5mm maybe) forcing the bolt out then squirt more plus gas in and carry on hammering away on the end of the bolt using the nut half off the threads to locate a drift the same diameter as the bolt.  This saved the thread from damage during about an hour of constant hammering.  Once the bolt moves a couple of mm it comes out in few minutes.  The ball joints on upper arms were just as difficult to shift as you have to hammer against gravity.  Hammering the washer in each slot helps with these. Next challenge knocking the cv joint off the shaft, no room to swing the hammer, much quicker to unbolt inner flange and remove the driveshaft.  Then it is a piece of cake to put in a vice to finish the job, also much better access to fit new boot.  Cleaned up the inside of pinch bolt hole with some sandpaper wrapped around a screwdriver and cleaned up bolt and ball joint grooves with round file, then greased up with copper grease and re assemble. I was so pleased with my pinch bolt technique that I did the other side in preparation for doing the other boot sometime soon.  I am going to invent a shroud to protect it from spray etc. In the meantime has anybody tried better quality (maybe stainless steel) bolts? PS the boot kit is GKN from eurocarparts about £11. Some people say take out the abs sensors but you only need to pull them out a couple of mm.  Remember to push them back in otherwise abs will activate at walking speed!

[rotodiesel]

Grease the pinch bolts annually. They can be removed without any dismantling or jacking of the car whatsoever - a 16AF socket on a UJ and a ring spanner to hold the bolt head gets them out in under a minute - on my car.

 

A completely idiotic design.

 

rotodiesel.

 

You don't need to disturb the pinch bolt or upper control arms to change a CV joint boot. The shaft will come out as a unit when unbolted from the drive flange if you apply lock and move the shaft inwards above the transmission. 

[098Joe]

Hi Briskodian

 

   Will that work for both sides on 2.5 auto? (too late for offside now though)  I did wonder when I gave up trying to knock the joint off and removed the shaft whether that would have worked. I will try that first when I do it, although it was very satisfying beating the bolt! What a palaver if no need to touch pinch bolt/ upper arms or lower arms.   

 

Cheers

Joe

[rotodiesel]

I can't vouch for the 2.5 auto - definitely not my type of power train. The LH driveshaft comes out of the AWX/GGB (5 speed manual) with all of the suspension assembled. I've done it.

 

rotodiesel.

[rwbaldwin]

...I am going to invent a shroud to protect it from spray etc...

In the US, many of the VW dealerships paint the bolts on Passats with this stuff that dries like soft plastic, that can be peeled off.

[098Joe]

I can't vouch for the 2.5 auto - definitely not my type of power train. The LH driveshaft comes out of the AWX/GGB (5 speed manual) with all of the suspension assembled. I've done it.

 

rotodiesel.

Not my type either but wanted a diesel without the pain of a DMF replacement.  I made the clutch on my Honda accord last 176000 miles, but had the dmf replaced also as it is a very big job on Honda. Turned out the dmf was ok but fairly close to being out of tolerance.  The auto does seem to be a bit indecisive, and I don't see the point of tiptronic (like having a dog and barking yourself) Not very impressed with durability of the Skoda compared to the Honda though unless Skoda has been clocked!   

[jimbof]

UK driver's (right hand side) comes out without any suspension work on the 1.9 auto - I believe the 2.5 auto is the same gearbox give or take some internals.

I haven't done it, but saw it come out and go back in in less than 30 mins (with the car in the air on a proper lift).

[oh_superb]

I have considered a stainless pinch bolt myself.  But worried about galvanic corrosion making the situation worse!

I have a pair of spare ones in the garage waiting to be fitted before the winter as the current ones have been in there for 2 years, greased up I must say.  WOnder how much effort will be required to get them out, they look pretty rusty on the outside now.

[rotodiesel]

If the bolt and the bore in the knuckle are greased annually, the bolt will come out. It's directly in line with the water and mud thrown off the front tyre (well done, Wolfsburg) so it always ends up caked in mud.

 

Anti-corrosion wax such as Dinitrol is far better than grease though. There's not much point in fitting a non-standard bolt (possible implications in an accident), although the OE bolt is only 8.8 spec and is not pulled up very tight. 

 

As with all the other design faults on this car, you just have to address them as frequently as is necessary. Looked after, the B5.5 will run and run - neglected it's a money pit.

 

rotodiesel.

[oh_superb]

Which reminds me I need to remove mine soon, it's been 15 months since installing the new pinch bolts track rods and upper arms.