098Joe

Can anyone recommend a good garage in Northampton for cambelt/waterpump replacement and auto gearbox fluid change. As far as I know Yodaskoda has done 106000 miles on original belts and pulleys and transmisiion fluid, so maybe time to change! I presume good idea to chuck a nerw water pump on. Thanks Joe

Using spacers will increase loads on the wheel bearings and also interfere with some of the carefully calculated suspension settings/angles

How does the mechanic know dmf flywheel will need replacing? I had a Honda Accord that did about 160000 miles on original clutch before it started to slip. I had the flywheel (as a precaution) and clutch replaced together (as it a very labour intensive job on that model). The old flywheel was well within tolerance (less than half worn) when the mechanic inspected it.

Not sure if water still getting in, I had the pollen filter out so could see inside to the fan, and there was no visible sign of water entering whilst I hosed around it. The drivers side I have removed the trim on right side and lifted the carpet up and run around with the heater on full, and kept putting dry towels under there and it seems to be dry and staying dry, although I think the driver's door may be letting a trickle in. I have not fully checked the passenger side but the carpet did feel wet on top but is dry now, although I appreciate it could be soaking wet underneath. There was quite a bit of water sloshing around in the plenum but looks like it was never higher than the battery tray.

Hi can anybody tell me if the blocked drains under battery and servo would cause both footwells to get wet or just drivers side? I think my pollen filter housing is ok because I gave the hinge areas a good flush to clear debris with a hose and no water got past the seal. Thanks Joe

I think the single fog light is a German idea so that people are less likely to mistake twin fog lights for brake lights (this was before third high level central brake lights were invented)

Thanks I was pretty sure there should be one. Yes had an oil change in August so guess it took a while to work it's way out of the undertray. National Tyres will be getting some grief tomorrow. But I am relieved that it is not a big problem. Sometimes I park facing up a slope so maybe it ran out of the vee quicker than if always on the level.

Just realised my car is dripping oil on my block paving. So had a quick look under bonnet, and oil is seeping out from where the plastic filter housing screws in. I unscrewed it and to my surprise no O ring, can somebody confirm whether or not there should be one? Thanks Joe

I read an interesting article written by an oil industry chemist, and he was saying oil change intervals are entirely based on worse case scenarios, and that for my type of driving (35 miles each way commute on fast a road) modern fully synthetic oils can easily cope with 20 000 mile intervals. I applied that to my previous car (Honda Accord) and it was still going strong at 176000 miles.

Remember you hooked it up for me about January when I was a newbie. I think you said it was slightly retarded. Warm starts seem to need a bit of churning. Got the oil done at National Tyres in the end Edge 5 30 and a mann hummel filter for £47. Hoagy is our mutual friend.

Hi All The switch on the drivers side b pillar does not work on my car, the bit you push has fallen out and won't stay in. It has been like it since I got the car. I am not bothered about that, unless it is a cheap fix, but can anyone tell me how to permanently disarm the movement sensors so that I can lock our our dog in the car. We just had our first camping holiday in the car and we had to leave her in it whilst dining out. She is a quite scary looking English Bull Terrier but I l don't like leaving her in the unlocked car. Also noticed that manually changing gear with the tiptronic whilst towing made a big difference to mpg. Cheers Joe

Oh okay so where do I get the vac pump device from please? I didn't think it would get more out than the old way. Also (oh-superb) 5w30 is the recommended fully synthetic for bdg engine (according to Halfords) and are you still up for helping me with my timing?

Quick question, can the oil change be done traditional way? Eurocarparts have a good offer on oil and free filter at the mo but I don't fancy those dipstick vacuum devices. Thanks Joe

same fuse did boot release on mine! so had to go in through back seats to check the boot light (I blew the fuse trying to refit boot light)

Just done that one tonight! it is number 14 and it controls central locking interior lights and boot and fuel flap release but the stupid manual and the card inside the fuse cover are for left hand drive (mirror image). I think you must have wiring problem if 14 is ok and central locking works. The fuse for mirrors should be number 15 for memory and number 5 for mirror adjustment according to manual

Not my type either but wanted a diesel without the pain of a DMF replacement. I made the clutch on my Honda accord last 176000 miles, but had the dmf replaced also as it is a very big job on Honda. Turned out the dmf was ok but fairly close to being out of tolerance. The auto does seem to be a bit indecisive, and I don't see the point of tiptronic (like having a dog and barking yourself) Not very impressed with durability of the Skoda compared to the Honda though unless Skoda has been clocked!

Hi Briskodian Will that work for both sides on 2.5 auto? (too late for offside now though) I did wonder when I gave up trying to knock the joint off and removed the shaft whether that would have worked. I will try that first when I do it, although it was very satisfying beating the bolt! What a palaver if no need to touch pinch bolt/ upper arms or lower arms. Cheers Joe

You mean undo inner flange?

I just changed outer cv boot drivers side at the weekend, it must have taken about 6-7 hours in total. Strangely the pinch bolt was the easiest bit! Fairly sure it has been in there since new, and it did take a good three hours and half a tin of plus gas, but it came out in the end. I think what also helped was finding a thick washer just the right size to hammer into the slot nearest the bolt head, this has the effect of fractionally (0.5mm maybe) forcing the bolt out then squirt more plus gas in and carry on hammering away on the end of the bolt using the nut half off the threads to locate a drift the same diameter as the bolt. This saved the thread from damage during about an hour of constant hammering. Once the bolt moves a couple of mm it comes out in few minutes. The ball joints on upper arms were just as difficult to shift as you have to hammer against gravity. Hammering the washer in each slot helps with these. Next challenge knocking the cv joint off the shaft, no room to swing the hammer, much quicker to unbolt inner flange and remove the driveshaft. Then it is a piece of cake to put in a vice to finish the job, also much better access to fit new boot. Cleaned up the inside of pinch bolt hole with some sandpaper wrapped around a screwdriver and cleaned up bolt and ball joint grooves with round file, then greased up with copper grease and re assemble. I was so pleased with my pinch bolt technique that I did the other side in preparation for doing the other boot sometime soon. I am going to invent a shroud to protect it from spray etc. In the meantime has anybody tried better quality (maybe stainless steel) bolts? PS the boot kit is GKN from eurocarparts about £11. Some people say take out the abs sensors but you only need to pull them out a couple of mm. Remember to push them back in otherwise abs will activate at walking speed!

Maybe a daft question, but anybody know why 50 mph speed limit on spare wheel? It is not a space saver but slightly narrower.

I have got a 56 plate 2.5 tdi auto and very happy with it. I had a 06 Honda Accord diesel previously that did 173000 miles with just the vsa module problem (£250 repair) and a new clutch/flywheel (£1500) but legroom in the back was tight for kids. I commute 30 miles each way up the a5 Towcester to Hinckley, the Honda did 47mpg and the Skoda is doing about 44mpg. The Skoda is a great car with acres of room also the V6 lump has loads of grunt and sounds pretty nice from inside. The only things I miss from the Honda are the sat nav (Skoda one is rubbish) and cornering on rails handling. I believe the BDG engine is free of the pump problems affecting earlier models. Definitely worth having a look at and far better value than an Audi A6 for example.

Windscreen?

Just fitted mine last weekend with bypass relay, and everything ok. I have CD changer in boot so took power from that and earthed to the nuts that secure light cluster, also there is a nice little compartment under the cd changer big enough to place the relay, the wires from relay go to the light clusters, just had to run two wires across to drivers side for indicator and tail lamp underneath the trim. It is easy to identify the correct wires to tap into by looking at the bulb holders. Then the wires to towbar socket just connect to the relay. There is a grommet on left side suitable for passing the wire to the outside of the car. I used those scotchlock things and all working ok. My towbar is a Witter from PF Jones and was easy to fit, the only difference to fitting instructions was that the rearmost pre drilled holes for the side arms already have captive nuts, but they were the correct thread for the bolts supplied. If you are anywhere near Towcester, I can help.

Thanks will give it a go Joe