Eeek it's the window motor with module, not cheap. You can get used but the part number will have to match exactly for the correct year (including last initial) as far as I know, or it will have to be coded to the car with vcds. You could potentially slide out the module from the window motor in a breakers yard, could be your cheapest option, part number should be stickered on it or the motor part. You may be able to clean up the plug, otherwise that is part of the door loom, have seen used ones on the bay for 30 odd quid. If you fancy your chances you could try and solder new male pins to replace the gone ones. People have used pins out of computer part plugs I believe. That thread is kicking around, try Google fix multiplug octavia and will list briskoda threads, I find that a bit more user friendly than the search on here you don't have to be so specific.

Don't forget to protect them when you're done! I'm waiting for weather to warm and I'll be protecting my rear door plugs and lubing the lock mechs.

I'm having a dig around for that thread also, sure it was easier to find than this...Oh also if your pin and socket has been corroded then the wire could also be breaking up. You may find if you wiggle those connecting wires they come out. At least we can be sure that this is your issue with the locking!

Eeek it's the window motor with module, not cheap. You can get used but the part number will have to match exactly for the correct year (including last initial) as far as I know, or it will have to be coded to the car with vcds. You could potentially slide out the module from the window motor in a breakers yard, could be your cheapest option, part number should be stickered on it or the motor part. You may be able to clean up the plug, otherwise that is part of the door loom, have seen used ones on the bay for 30 odd quid. If you fancy your chances you could try and solder new male pins to replace the gone ones. People have used pins out of computer part plugs I believe. That thread is kicking around, try Google fix multiplug octavia and will list briskoda threads, I find that a bit more user friendly than the search on here you don't have to be so specific.

Don't forget to protect them when you're done! I'm waiting for weather to warm and I'll be protecting my rear door plugs and lubing the lock mechs.

 

Aye I founf it there in the sea of central locking threads  http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/222541-central-locking-problem-help-needed/?hl=%20central%20%20looking

 

I do not have a UK car it was ordered when new through a dealers in ROI as it was a cheaper option to buy and directly import it new to the UK. Making used parts impossible. 

 

My only issue is that the drivers door isnt unlocking/locking on the central locking (I do not have remote central locking only with key in doors). So if I use key in drivers door all is fine all lock/unlock at same time. If I try to lock car from boot or passenger door it just means all work bar the drivers door which will remain in the position it was until key used in door. It's not the biggest hardship tbh but it's in bits now so might as well have a stab at it  

 

The yellow soft rubbery stuff  at bottom of the male pins I can push down on it to get back to some actual metal for soldering, but will prob need to cut this away to give access. Female side, it started raining so I shut up shop and stole the other bit from the window motor end (undid clips) and retreated inside. Have to check state of female side to see if I can dig out the rotten remains of pin and if it has spread to the clip in plug ...... 

 

FUBAR claims he can solder but it has been over 20 years! 

Aye I founf it there in the sea of central locking threads  http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/222541-central-locking-problem-help-needed/?hl=%20central%20%20looking

 

I do not have a UK car it was ordered when new through a dealers in ROI as it was a cheaper option to buy and directly import it new to the UK. Making used parts impossible. 

 

My only issue is that the drivers door isnt unlocking/locking on the central locking (I do not have remote central locking only with key in doors). So if I use key in drivers door all is fine all lock/unlock at same time. If I try to lock car from boot or passenger door it just means all work bar the drivers door which will remain in the position it was until key used in door. It's not the biggest hardship tbh but it's in bits now so might as well have a stab at it  

 

The yellow soft rubbery stuff  at bottom of the male pins I can push down on it to get back to some actual metal for soldering, but will prob need to cut this away to give access. Female side, it started raining so I shut up shop and stole the other bit from the window motor end (undid clips) and retreated inside. Have to check state of female side to see if I can dig out the rotten remains of pin and if it has spread to the clip in plug ...... 

 

FUBAR claims he can solder but it has been over 20 years!

That's more soldering than I've done although I did buy a kit just in case! My thinking is if I buy one I won't need it! Fingers xd. If you can get a good enough pin and join and your wires are ok you could well find a pretty effective fix. Good luck! Like you say you're kind of lucky that it doesn't cause a massive problem but if you're like me when things aren't right it drives you a bit nuts?

That's more soldering than I've done although I did buy a kit just in case! My thinking is if I buy one I won't need it! Fingers xd. If you can get a good enough pin and join and your wires are ok you could well find a pretty effective fix. Good luck! Like you say you're kind of lucky that it doesn't cause a massive problem but if you're like me when things aren't right it drives you a bit nuts?

 

Was thinking what to use for a pin as the retaining clip on a female USB socket I'd be afraid would be a little thin and I might bend it when plugging back in etc. So I have a pile of OBDII plugs about the place all full of similar looking pins, it's hammer time! Good news is the female plug end looks spit on after I cleared the rusty mess out with a pin, I will leave it at that and try new pin on plug and if it works good, if not then I will take the yellow/red wire off back and sort that (it would be the easier one).

 

When I got car it had one fault that rear passenger door (the water sod from above) had an issue with not locking on central locking, but it felt stiff so I just worked it back and forth then it worked fine since more or less. Only issue I had with that door since was it stopping again and window would not go up and down properly but only on the drivers door controls so likely all down to this pin and the small bit of water that was in there. 

Was thinking what to use for a pin as the retaining clip on a female USB socket I'd be afraid would be a little thin and I might bend it when plugging back in etc. So I have a pile of OBDII plugs about the place all full of similar looking pins, it's hammer time! Good news is the female plug end looks spit on after I cleared the rusty mess out with a pin, I will leave it at that and try new pin on plug and if it works good, if not then I will take the yellow/red wire off back and sort that (it would be the easier one).

 

When I got car it had one fault that rear passenger door (the water sod from above) had an issue with not locking on central locking, but it felt stiff so I just worked it back and forth then it worked fine since more or less. Only issue I had with that door since was it stopping again and window would not go up and down properly but only on the drivers door controls so likely all down to this pin and the small bit of water that was in there.

Yeah pins from an OBD should be ideal I would have thought. A lot of locking unlocking issues do just come down to sticky catches in the mechs. My front n/s had that problem, heavy spray with wd40 and spray grease, been fine all winter. Every year or so I think I'll go into doors to keep mechs lubed. I don't want a deadlocking issue to deal with much.

Yeah pins from an OBD should be ideal I would have thought. A lot of locking unlocking issues do just come down to sticky catches in the mechs. My front n/s had that problem, heavy spray with wd40 and spray grease, been fine all winter. Every year or so I think I'll go into doors to keep mechs lubed. I don't want a deadlocking issue to deal with much.

 

Yea that read door's issues seemed to be from someone who had been in there before me and there was a lube on all the linkage for lock knob.... But it was very laboured and heavy in its operation. I am tempted to open all multiplugs to have a look then seal up properly, but....... I might find more pins ready to go and by unplugging break them. I think I will just leave all alone in that sense and address each issue in turn. 14 years old  

Yea that read door's issues seemed to be from someone who had been in there before me and there was a lube on all the linkage for lock knob.... But it was very laboured and heavy in its operation. I am tempted to open all multiplugs to have a look then seal up properly, but....... I might find more pins ready to go and by unplugging break them. I think I will just leave all alone in that sense and address each issue in turn. 14 years old

That was my fear when I unplugged mine to check, think I did it with my eyes closed...peered in and then gave a big sigh of relief. If it ain't broke don't fix it I guess, although if preventative measures are taken they may not break at all. Swings and roundabouts I guess. Having seen the fronts I reckon my rears will be ok...hopefully.

Check out all that is left to work with under the rubber :( 

 

Holy Moley...

Holy Moley...

 

Randomly the guy who will be my solderer is nicknamed mole/moley I take it, mine has rotted down a bit further than normal? Bloody thing worked perfect until less than a week ago lol 

Randomly the guy who will be my solderer is nicknamed mole/moley I take it, mine has rotted down a bit further than normal? Bloody thing worked perfect until less than a week ago lol

The only ones I've seen have been pics on here but I'm afraid I think yours gets the prize so far. Suppose they could still be making 'some' connection which is just enough to keep stuff working until they finally and suddenly completely crumble. As you said earlier with the way the multiplug unplugs could finish them off.

The only ones I've seen have been pics on here but I'm afraid I think yours gets the prize so far. Suppose they could still be making 'some' connection which is just enough to keep stuff working until they finally and suddenly completely crumble. As you said earlier with the way the multiplug unplugs could finish them off.

 

Bugger! I can't find wiring diagrams to say what pin does what. I have a full compliment of pins but on plug side there are some without clips for my spec.... it's a shame as there are pins in there not in use :( 

Bugger! I can't find wiring diagrams to say what pin does what. I have a full compliment of pins but on plug side there are some without clips for my spec.... it's a shame as there are pins in there not in use :(

Could be worth a pm to pikpilot he seems to know his way round that plug and associated wiring

I want to slide the entire thing out of the plastic shroud but it doesnt seem to want to come out :( would make it a must easier job, I could even steal a not in use pin off the board! 

Right, that's that all sorted now 100% working again. Stole a pin from an old OBDII plug from my MG/BMW days for service resetting (used a not in use pin so it's still good). Slight issue with locating the soldering iron......... The following improvisation ensued on the kitchen table! 

 

 

New pin off cut and home made soldering iron....

 

Let battle commence!  :peek:

 

 

I did when moving like a snail with my sore back putting car back together manage to forget to refit the speaker before the friggin door card though, which added a few min as I refused to take it all the way off to get at the screws (lying on my side in the rain on driveway in order to accomplish said task!  :cocktail:

Sometimes you feel like a fecking hero, well done son.

Sometimes you feel like a fecking hero, well done son.

 

Bit of a bodge it and scraper job tbh. After putting it back in the car plugging it in etc I resealed up the plastic membrane as it was in tatters from someone elses handy work..... Then realised when I went to my magnet dish that the metal retaining clip was not on lol. So having used to much tape already I just slashed it down the middle for access then tapped that up too lol. 

Bit of a bodge it and scraper job tbh. After putting it back in the car plugging it in etc I resealed up the plastic membrane as it was in tatters from someone elses handy work..... Then realised when I went to my magnet dish that the metal retaining clip was not on lol. So having used to much tape already I just slashed it down the middle for access then tapped that up too lol.

Think I'd have done the same, when you're that close to the finish line just throw stuff at it! Peace of mind for a while hopefully anyway mate.

Think I'd have done the same, when you're that close to the finish line just throw stuff at it! Peace of mind for a while hopefully anyway mate.

 

Stopped working again 2 days ago :( No point going back near it. Seen the loom is £150 new, not as bad as I though so if it looses any more functionality I will just do that scratch that, it's the module side not loom side the pin is on. Might pull it out to get part number off it next time I am in there and keep an eye out on ebay etc. As is all works fine just that drivers door is only one that operates all locks (as drivers one is being manually turned either way). Can still open and close everything else from other locks so sod it. No remote locking option on mine anyway, so not the biggest hardship. Now for my nice used Skoda alloys I ordered on ebay to arrive

Bit of a bummer mate, at least you can 'manage'. Keep your eyes peeled like you say, keep an eye on the breakers yards as well you could just slide out the module off the motor. Ever used breakeryard.com by the way? Can be very useful.

Bit of a bummer mate, at least you can 'manage'. Keep your eyes peeled like you say, keep an eye on the breakers yards as well you could just slide out the module off the motor. Ever used breakeryard.com by the way? Can be very useful.

Not heard of that one, will give it a try. My fear is the whole, is that module specific to the spec of the car still. (central locking but not remote, 4X electric windows) I imagine most would be remote central locking. Hope it doesn't make a difference. 

Hmmm I don't know to be honest, but when you do a search on breaker yard I think you can put extra details in the notes box, try your luck with exact part number including last initial. Think you can reset with vag com if different year and get the system to accept it. Breakeryard is pretty good, the search rolls on and you get emails through with prices and details, pretty sure the yards offer postage and most accept paypal.

Hmmm I don't know to be honest, but when you do a search on breaker yard I think you can put extra details in the notes box, try your luck with exact part number including last initial. Think you can reset with vag com if different year and get the system to accept it. Breakeryard is pretty good, the search rolls on and you get emails through with prices and details, pretty sure the yards offer postage and most accept paypal.

 

I SO do not want to strip that door down again and cut through the plastic membrane to get the number at the moment lol. I wonder if I have any pics that show it hummmmm