I realise this has been discussed before but my 2002 1.9TDi Elegance yesterday started making the 'clicking' noise from behind the dash. This started as a regular, slow clicking that stopped when the car was moving but returned whenever it stopped (lights, road junction etc.). This afternoon, this changed to a constant fast clicking together with an intermittent very fast clicking that almost sounds like a buzz.

 

I've tried the diagnostic/re-set procedure a number of times using the two, extreme, left and right hand buttons but that has made no difference. The error codes shown are 214 and 4FA. I understand 4FA means a problem with the recirc. flap motor and that 214 is B+ voltage. However, what does 'B+ voltage' actually mean?

 

Hope someone can explain in simple terms.

 

Thanks in advance,

 

FD  

214 in hex is 0532 in decimal. As you rightly say this this is low 12 V supply at the climate control unit.

The Ross Tech Wiki says:

When found in an individual control module, it's most likely a local source (e.g. wiring/connectors).

When found in multiple control modules at the same time, it's most likely a common source (e.g. ground spot, battery, generator).

Intermittent codes are often stored during low outside temperature when the battery capacity goes down and may be ignored.

Common with 16946/P0562/001378 - System Voltage: Too Low stored in other control modules.

Have you had any other symptoms such as dash board display faults? If so it more likely to be a loose battery connector or burning of the main fuse connectors or cables at the battery box. Corroded end of the alternator cable can overheat the battery box area.

Otherwise look at the cables and fuses associated with the climatronic unit.

Lowering volts could be why the clicking is getting faster.

My guess is a poor connection in or around the climate control unit. Could be ground connection not made or loose.

Many thanks. No, no other issues at all. However, yesterday morning when this all started it was particularly cold and the first few turns of the engine were a little laboured as if the battery was a touch low. I have to confess that it's still the original battery fitted in Sept 2002 so, perhaps, it might be reaching the end of its life!! I'd like to get to the bottom of this as whilst the car has done 145k, I've had it since 55k/2008 and it's still super economical, rust free with excellent paint, uses no oil, water etc. and will still average 60 mph and 60 mpg on a decent run. 

 

FD

Reading about this problem on this and other web sites, some people say that setting the recirc. flap to open and disconnecting the flap motor is a quick fix. I never use recirc. (it simply makes the windows steam up) so, assuming I can find the thing and get to it, is this a realistic option? If so, I suppose it would be too much to hope that the recirc. motor has a dedicated fuse!

 

Thanks, 

 

FD

There is no individual fuse on any of the flap servos.

 

I had seen a video on how to change the recirc flap servo on the net so did a quick search on "changing recirculation flap on climatronic" and came up with 

 

https://www.google.co.uk/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=changing%20recirculation%20flap%20on%20climatronic

 

It didn't bring up the one I had seen before but take a look at all the information in the results and you will get the general picture that the recirc servo is buried deep but do-able. Try different search terms.

Thanks again. Was going to start this afternoon but raining so, hopefully, a job for Friday. 

 

Although the motor is making a constant noise as it tries to do its job, what I have proved this morning on a 20 mile trip is that everything except the recirc function works perfectly. Air flow moves between the various vents as the various buttons are pressed and it gets hot and very cold as the temperature is adjusted. I imagine that the recirc flap is stuck in the open position as the car doesn't steam up. 

 

FD

Update. Removed glovebox and, after a bit of fiddling about, managed to disconnect the power plug from the recirc flap motor. Removed heater blower and was able to set the flaps into the none recirc position i.e. air flow is from the outside through the pollen filter. The recirc function doesn't work now (well, it wouldn't would it) but everything else seems to and no clicking noise. So far, so good..........!
 
The photos at http://uk-mkivs.net/topic/4360-recirc-air-flap-motor-v71-remove-and-replace-guide/ were very useful in actually locating the servo and the connector. 

 

FD

Edited 6 February, 201511 yr by Fred Duck