Today I tackled the front brakes on my CR170 Yeti.

 

It's on about 45k miles, and although the front pads didn't look too worn, I thought it was time to give them some attention.

 

Bit surprised at how badly corroded the inside face of one of the fronts was - at least the outer inch of the surface was completely ****ed.

Had several cars with this brake setup now, over many miles, and never seen anything like it. Maybe the previous owner was a little too gentle with them ?

 

Anyway, I've now fitted a nice new set of discs, a decent set of pads, and bled a litre of new fluid through.

After a good degrease, I painted the non-friction surfaces of the discs in some matt black VHT paint (and cured them in the oven, much rolling of eyes from the Mrs), we'll see if that slows down the corrosion on the outer edges. Or whether it just falls off.

 

Anyway, quick test drive and brakes feel sooo much sharper now, and they've not even bedded in yet 

 

 

Tried to attach a photo of the corroded disc, won't upload though :(

OK, managed to attach a photo of the disc....

 

Oh yeah and they were a pain to get off the hubs. Hence the dent marks

Much the same as my Fabia, looked OK from the outside!

Just bought some Brembo discs and EBC brake pads for mine,the Brembo bumph states that the chemical formulation of their discs are better than other manufactures, we'l see after a while.

 I was going for a big brake conversion but insurance company didn't allow ,so have gone for the above instead.

How difficult is it to change pads & discs?  Quite fancy giving this a bash myself.

How difficult is it to change pads & discs? Quite fancy giving this a bash myself.

Relatively easy if you know what your doing.

Personally, would leave this kind of job to an expert if your not sure. Brake and steering faults caused by incorrect fitting could be fatal.

That's a strange 'unswept' annular ring.

It's almost like undersized pads or a section of the outer pad was lost or

It enables a brake upgrade with larger pads.

That's a strange 'unswept' annular ring.

It's almost like undersized pads or a section of the outer pad was lost or

It enables a brake upgrade with larger pads.

If the pads stick in the sliders then the piston doesn't push the pad evenly onto the disk, instead they pivot and only contact the inner part of the disc face. More common on the rear than the front.

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If the pads stick in the sliders then the piston doesn't push the pad evenly onto the disk, instead they pivot and only contact the inner part of the disc face. More common on the rear than the front.

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I haven't had them off to look at the setup but doesn't look like they been looked at for a v long time and or a stone was lodged in there also.

I haven't had them off to look at the setup but doesn't look like they been looked at for a v long time and or a stone was lodged in there also.

Its more likely to happen in winter I've found. If it was a stone it would have been noisy as hell, no way you could have not noticed.

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Flipping heck, that looks BAD.

To me, an untrained eye, looks like those discs are about 20+ years old.

If my Yeti gets anywhere near those, the dealers going to make some money,

after they explain why they did not tell me sooner.

Thanks for sharing.

Wouldn't fail an MoT though.

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Done my front brakes ,too cold to do the backs, just a quick question, is the tool required to wind back the rear calliper piston a right hand thread or left hand thread?

Wouldn't fail an MoT though.

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I guess it could if it caused too much braking imbalance across the front, didn't feel particularly bad though. 

And you can barely see the inside face because of the stone/spray guard...so probably wouldn't be visible to a tester.

Done my front brakes ,too cold to do the backs, just a quick question, is the tool required to wind back the rear calliper piston a right hand thread or left hand thread?

 

I use the Laser wind back tool, so it's whichever way that turns, pretty sure it's right hand thread.

 

Beware the bolts holding the rear carriers on are a right pain to get to, and remember you need an M14 spline bit (NOT torx) for them.

The spline bit I bought was too long and even with a 1/2" U/J adaptor I couldn't get them off. Have just bought a shorter spline bit, might have another go next week.

Phew , got the right one. I have some short spline bits,but I can just cut them down if too long .gonna wait till a warmer day.

If the pads stick in the sliders then the piston doesn't push the pad evenly onto the disk, instead they pivot and only contact the inner part of the disc face. More common on the rear than the front.

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The Tyrolsport upgrade might be a good option, removes the flex you get with the stock rubber bushes that the sliders fit in.

http://www.tyrolsport.com/brakes/tyrolsport-brake-caliper-stiffening-kit-for-vw/audi/

Phew , got the right one. I have some short spline bits,but I can just cut them down if too long .gonna wait till a warmer day.

 

It's worth reading TP's guide on the bosch rear brakes, in the Yeti tech section I think.

It shows how awkward the bolts are to get to. Think he used some 1/2" extensions and a U/J adaptor. 

I have read  both 'how to's , very informative and have got them in my favourites so I can find them quick if I need them. Thanks for the heads up.