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Yellow Peril II, this time its personal


Leeboy

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Are you not suppose to use sealant on these normally? I no on my old bmws you have to use it on the cam half moons to get a seal. Hope this fix works for ya dude, cant see why it wont

There was no evidence of any sealant on the gasket when I removed the cam cover originally and likewise from a spare engine I have that I used to pinch the cam cover for painting.

However following a longer drive yesterday, it's leaking again :(. Maybe I was too cautious and need to apply it more liberally.

Meanwhile it's MOT day....

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Pretty sure it's coming from the cylinder head side of the gasket where the half moon blanking rubber fits into the casting.

The cam cover went in a fan oven at 60 degrees so can't see this would have caused distortion.

The casting is nice and smooth but the pooling of the oil was clearly apparent when I removed the gasket before trying the sealant as seen here.

DSC_0507_zpsvefgggs7.jpg

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  • 2 months later...

A brief update on Yellow Peril II,  still need to sort the pesky oil leak, I've got another new gasket to go on and will revert back to the previous rocker cover and see if that makes a difference. 

 

Meanwhile it's getting plenty of use and proving a reliable drive which has bags more character than my 2015 mk3 Superb.   And considering the power output,  I've logged nearly 4000 miles on Fuelly and it's averaging just under 35 mpg running on Shell super unleaded.  

 

Elsewhere I fitted some aero wiper arms after spotting then in the parts for sale section of the forum.   Bit of polish and elbow grease on receipt and they pretty much look like new.  

 

DSC_0674_zpstuufpfyo.jpg

 

Will need to give it a good clean inside and out tray for Castle Combe next weekend.

Edited by Leeboy
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Had another stab at the oil leak associated with the cam cover this evening.   So started stripping down the coil packs which I can do pretty quickly now this is the third time I've changed the cam cover gasket.

 

DSC_0695_zps9wqhbwkk.jpg

 

Again oil collecting here once the outgoing gasket was removed. 

 

DSC_0699_zps8is110zb.jpg

 

Looking at the issue further, I wonder whether my actual problem is the timing chain tensioner assembly steel gasket that is leaking oil and making itself along the rubber cam cover gasket and its way out at the half moon blanking on the cylinder head?

 

DSC_0697_zps66bv3zzh.jpg

 

The leak is quite significant as demonstrated by how "wet" the top of the gearbox is from escaping lubricant. 

 

DSC_0701_zpszdmcuweu.jpg

 

I had a look online for what this gasket looks like and also found out that there is a second blanking plug for the end of the inlet cam that I didn't appreciate.

 

Screenshot_20170406-212954_zps8jkqrrjg_e

 

Has anyone changed both these items and is it something that can be done without having to mess with removing the chain tensioner?   Can the tensioner be compressed with the chain in place in order to allow some slack to undo the assembly from the cylinder head and slide out the steel gasket and rubber blanking plug and slide in new ones before tightened back into position?   Will the tensioner then expand back into position on start up (without the chain jumping off the cam sprockets and knackered up the timing).  I assume the tensioner is either sprung of hydraulic in nature?  Might post this question in Octy mk1 forum for a wider audience. 

 

For now I put the old cam cover that came with the engine back on with another new cam cover gasket, rather than the red one in case, long shot I know, the cover was the problem.   Of course the old one wouldn't do without a spruce up.  Change of colour this time :)

 

DSC_0702_zpsx1nbbmwv.jpg

 

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  • 5 weeks later...

think with the tool u mentioned

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/Camshaft-Engine-Tensioner-Hold-Timing-Tool-For-VW-Audi-1-8T-2-7-2-7T-2-8-3-2-4-2-/122226017526?hash=item1c753d04f6:g:XqQAAOSwImRYKbZ3

you get the slack on the chain u need to remove n replace the half moon and the small flat gasket, mite also need to loosen caps on the inlet camshaft to lift it up some but is there another half moon gasket at the timing belt end? that if replacing you have to take off the timing belt to get the room??

saw a great vid about cleaning out the oil sludge and clearing all the oil channels. difference it made to the oil pressure was massive

 

long vid but worth a look

when you gonna do yours Lee?

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I was chatting to a guy about this the other week as his tensioner was so loose the chain was chewing the cam cover up but he did say if you have a second pair of hands you can change the 2 gaskets with just the tensioner compressed. Thinking of checking mine as the engines dirty that end

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On 11/01/2017 at 22:26, Leeboy said:

Pretty sure it's coming from the cylinder head side of the gasket where the half moon blanking rubber fits into the casting.

The cam cover went in a fan oven at 60 degrees so can't see this would have caused distortion.

The casting is nice and smooth but the pooling of the oil was clearly apparent when I removed the gasket before trying the sealant as seen here.

DSC_0507_zpsvefgggs7.jpg

 

 

When you applied the sealant and refitted the cam cover did you leeve it over night before starting the car??

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7 hours ago, huwants2no said:

think with the tool u mentioned

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/Camshaft-Engine-Tensioner-Hold-Timing-Tool-For-VW-Audi-1-8T-2-7-2-7T-2-8-3-2-4-2-/122226017526?hash=item1c753d04f6:g:XqQAAOSwImRYKbZ3

you get the slack on the chain u need to remove n replace the half moon and the small flat gasket, mite also need to loosen caps on the inlet camshaft to lift it up some but is there another half moon gasket at the timing belt end? that if replacing you have to take off the timing belt to get the room??

saw a great vid about cleaning out the oil sludge and clearing all the oil channels. difference it made to the oil pressure was massive

 

long vid but worth a look

when you gonna do yours Lee?

 

I've had the compression tool now,  packet arrived this week.   Also spotted a genuine VW gasket kit on eBay and purchased it yesterday.   Like I said on your Octavia thread, I'll have a go on the spare engine I have that came out of this car originally to see if it I'd possible without removing the inlet cam.   I was thinking whether I should go the whole hog and replace the chain and tensioner but genuine ones are expensive whereas pattern parts can be had for 60-70 pounds.   However I don't think mine is particularly noisy so I'm gong to just do the gaskets.

 

Also I notice on mine,  I'm also leaking oil from the connector assembly that bolts on to tensioner.   I understand there is an o ring seal here so that will be an easy fix.   

 

I'll post up some step by  step photos when it's done.   Hopefully this will sort out my final oil leakage issue!

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4 hours ago, usedabused said:

 

 

When you applied the sealant and refitted the cam cover did you leeve it over night before starting the car??

 

I used an anaerobic sealant rather than silicone setting type so in answer to your question,  no.   

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In other news,  I've now got air con again.   After the engine change two years ago now,  I took the car to a Skoda franchise garage (that will remain nameless) near me for a re-gas last summer.  I was advised by phone all was done,  went to collect,  paid then walked over to the car and was intercepted by the service manager who said it hadn't worked as the circuit wouldn't hold a vacuum.   We went back inside to refund the money and that was that. 

 

So this week,  took it round to a local garage near me in Amesbury and explained it appeared to have a leak and could they diagnose where the issue was so I could weigh up the cost of replacement parts and repair.  As it turned out,  the system held vacuum and took the required amount of refrigerant and seems to work just fine, having not been touched since I put it all back together two years ago.   Will keep an eye on things as it has been dry for a couple of years and seals may well have become a bit leaky over time. 

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14 hours ago, Leeboy said:

In other news,  I've now got air con again.   After the engine change two years ago now,  I took the car to a Skoda franchise garage (that will remain nameless) near me for a re-gas last summer.  I was advised by phone all was done,  went to collect,  paid then walked over to the car and was intercepted by the service manager who said it hadn't worked as the circuit wouldn't hold a vacuum.   We went back inside to refund the money and that was that. 

 

So this week,  took it round to a local garage near me in Amesbury and explained it appeared to have a leak and could they diagnose where the issue was so I could weigh up the cost of replacement parts and repair.  As it turned out,  the system held vacuum and took the required amount of refrigerant and seems to work just fine, having not been touched since I put it all back together two years ago.   Will keep an eye on things as it has been dry for a couple of years and seals may well have become a bit leaky over time. 

 

Any money they ran out of gas. The air con machines are idiot proof as long as you can read and have access to the filling amounts which ud assume skoda have you cant go wrong! Also you would have thought they would try book you in for investigation work. Weird garage, im removing my system as its leaking and wanna loose the weight. If ya do need any bits let me no and il send them up, pump and condenser are fine, think its a o ring thats dried out

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