I had a similar problem. Spinning in 1st, 2nd & 3rd, even on good, dry surfaces. The wheel alignment was wrong and it shredded the front tyres in no time. New tyres and correct alignment and it is much better. It still spins in first and second but not so easily. No loss of traction in 3rd now,

On 21/04/2015 at 23:34, Vrs_Sean said:

I had a similar problem. Spinning in 1st, 2nd & 3rd, even on good, dry surfaces. The wheel alignment was wrong and it shredded the front tyres in no time. New tyres and correct alignment and it is much better. It still spins in first and second but not so easily. No loss of traction in 3rd now,

Old thread, but I’m getting same problems except more savage, will spin 1st, 2nd, 3rd any condition and if cruising and then booted from 4th or 5th gear she’ll spin and even show on the revs jumps from 2k to 3k with Michelin PS4s, and the clutch is good, I’ve gotten used to it but can get very annoying when overtaking. Running out of options tbh at this stage was wondering if there’s anything I can do limit some of the wheel spin but will happily motor on putting tyres on every 7kmiles haha. She’s mapped to 225bhp with 330lbs and a K&N panel filter and millers oil eco max. Probably sitting ~230bhp

was also wondering if the new Mk3 vRS 4x4 is any good in comparison to the ordinary Mk3 vRS, just not a big fan of dsgs but I presume the wheel spin be less and is the 4x4 quicker than the ordinary one?

thanks

jack

Edited 3 December, 20187 yr by JacksVRS

Wavetrac or Quaife differential. Or learn to modulate the throttle a bit better?

I assume your suspension is still standard VRS and if so they do squat a lot under acceleration and roll in bends. Firming up the rear end will reduce the squatting and weight transfer, which should keep the load on the front tyres. A front splitter will help too but obviously no use pulling out of a junction as the splitter needs air flow to work. 

2 hours ago, CWARD said:

I assume your suspension is still standard VRS and if so they do squat a lot under acceleration and roll in bends. Firming up the rear end will reduce the squatting and weight transfer, which should keep the load on the front tyres. A front splitter will help too but obviously no use pulling out of a junction as the splitter needs air flow to work. 

Thanks for the reply, I have modulated the throttle but it's the 4th/5th spin that's annoying,  what do u suggest I could get to stiffen the rear? I tempted with the splitter too

Thanks

Jack

Bilstein or H&R seem to get review on here from those who have fitted them, coupled with Whiteline ARB's. Also look at Whiteline Anti-lift kit. This is all extra money but handling and power should always go hand in hand.

Edited 4 December, 20187 yr by CWARD

That’s the way my VRS was when I bought it, once new shocks replaced the original items the problem was solved.  In my case the OEM shocks were in a really poor condition.  I used Bilstein B4 as like for like replacements and they’re reasonably priced. 

 

Might not be your issue but but worth considering if you’re still on the original Sachs shocks. 

3 hours ago, CWARD said:

Bilstein or H&R seem to get review on here from those who have fitted them, coupled with Whiteline ARB's. Also look at Whiteline Anti-lift kit. This is all extra money but handling and power should always go hand in hand.

Thanks lads for the responses I do like cornering and definitely wanting something that will save the life of the tyres, the last continentals lasted 5kmiles!

Thanks

Jack

Was also wondering would coilovers be more effective or would it just be better putting in better dampers like Bilstein B4 with white line ARBS? Also, can any one recommend a decent splitter ? I see one on superskoda but was wondering if there are any better ones for sale?

 

Edited 6 December, 20187 yr by JacksVRS

@Scoobster

R-Tech have come very highly recommended and they're who I'm intending to use to remap my new replacement vRS. They measure the car on the rolling road then adjust the map and test it again so the map is for your actual car and you get before and after graphs. Man-in-a-Van Remap just apply a guess map that someone else probably made. R-Tech also sit down with you before and check what it is you want from the car then make it the way you want it, not the way someone else thought the average person would want the average car.

 

Edited 7 December, 20187 yr by Papfox

On 04/12/2018 at 12:49, CWARD said:

Bilstein or H&R seem to get review on here from those who have fitted them, coupled with Whiteline ARB's. Also look at Whiteline Anti-lift kit. This is all extra money but handling and power should always go hand in hand.

Quick question, got an WALK myself on order. Will the console come straight off & will i need to replace the bolts?

Console is held with 3 bolts but best to replace them as they are stretch bolts.  Just be careful on removal as they can snap.

Edited 20 February, 20206 yr by wiilydog

Spinning in 4th on PS4’s? 🥴 mine is running a stage one map, and it’ll spin 1st and 2nd but not 3rd or 4th, that’s on Michelin alpin in 225/45/17’s, 250 bhp shouldn’t really be spinning 225 tyres in 4th so it’s got to be something untoward elsewhere.