Hey guys. My first post started here as just bought my VRS in January. Love it! Limited edition on an 09 plate with only 30,000 on the clock. Had it remapped by Angel Tuning so pushing towards 250bhp .

Thing is, even before my remap, I was getting a ridiculous amount of Wheelspin. Even in third. Just had two new vred's put on the front and although slightly better it is still annoying.

I was reading somewhere else on the forum that it could be my clutch. I did have to burn the hell out of it in the snow just after I purchased it.

Any thoughts?

If you weren't getting wheel spin then it could be the clutch but I can't see how the clutch is to blame for the extra power/torque?

Maybe just use the throttle and gears required for how you want to proceed, road surface etc,  maybe change up a gear if you

now have such a powerful engine and lots of torque.

That might save your clutch. and the tyres wearing out.

In other words, slow down? That's no fun! There's nothing that I could upgrade that would reduce it?

You could try upgrading the road surfaces to see if your tyres would grip them better, Lol.

Re #4,

no do not slow down if you want to get a move on an go faster quicker,

maybe just fit decent tyres, at the correct pressures and change gear to suit the torque you have and the rpm and reduce the wheel spin.

Yer got decent tyres on it and at the right pressure. I've just driven more powerful cars than this and not had anywhere near this amount of burnt rubber.

Mine is exactly the same. Putting foot down in 1st or second and sometimes 3rd results in wheelspin. You have to control the power with your foot. Can be difficult at first but you will get used to it. You will see better acceleration when you control it more.

What Vredstein tyres have you on?

 

Different cars different way of driving required surely,

any Subarus by chance?

It must be down to the tyres, I don't believe that driving style alone would give this result. I'd have to try REALLY hard to get the wheel spin you're describing, and even then the road surface would need to be greasy and all the ESP etc turned off.

I don't believe that driving style alone would give this result.

 

You would be surprised.

 

Without knowing how the OP drives it’s impossible to say, I went out as a passenger with someone complaining of the same issue.... the owner was driving like an arse with no mechanical sympathy at all, that was all the issue was.

(Not saying that is the problem here)

Are you assuming it is wheel spin because the revs rise or is it from actual squealing from the tyres.

You talked earlier about the clutch and my guess it is slipping clutch unless you know the wheels are actually spinning. A squealing clutch can sound like a squealing tyre but you know which it is from the feel of the car when you reduce power.

There is usually a clue to wheel spin rather than clutch slip.

Driver of High Performance Mapped cars are going to notice it, especially those that are now knocking on for 250bhp.

 

You see that flashing light on the dash,  you loose Traction and soon your tyres are showing the wear.

If you want to get high torque onto the tarmac in low gears then a front-wheel drive car without a limited slip diff is always going to be hard work. Even without a remap there is little reward in gunning mine in low gear unless in perfect conditions.

RE #9

No. Mainly Alfas. Had a GTV Cup 3.2l. Q2 done and no wheel spin! Just got fed up of sitting at the side of the road with my hazards on .

Vred's I got were sessanta's as recommended on here.

It's definitely wheel spin and not clutch as I get the symbol on my dash. I do know how to drive high performance cars and this really is not normal. As I said, this was doing it before the remap but I got a deal on that so just got it done. Is there any way of checking the traction control is working properly?

When I boot both the Elegance and the Scout, you can hear minimal spin (maybe a turn at best) then the traction control kicks in, or, as in the case of the Scout, power goes to the other wheels.

 

Have a look on the VCDS owners map and see if there's anyone near you that could scan the beastie for any underlying fault codes.

Thanks buddy. PM sent to Gaz. Hopefully he can help

It must be down to the tyres, I don't believe that driving style alone would give this result. I'd have to try REALLY hard to get the wheel spin you're describing, and even then the road surface would need to be greasy and all the ESP etc turned off.

 

Yours is a diesel? 2nd gear in the dry and on any surface greasy or not and mine is gauranteed to spin. 3rd gear in the wet spins also.

My best mate had an angel map on his old mk1 vrs it was very agressive low down in the revs he used to spend more time wheel spinning than gripping, some random bloke in a van did it for £250 and said it was an angel map he offerd it to me for mine and would of done the two vrs,s for £200 each i declined,two months later my best pal had a blown head gasget and a knackerd turbo,it was probably his driving style though i opted for a custom code map which was more proggresive that was nearly 10 years ago now

Never trust out of the van maps.

Hmm. Maybe I should get another then?

Dont get me started on vreds! I have two which have caused me a whole heap of trouble!http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/351099-defective-tyres-from-manufacturer-where-do-i-stand/?fromsearch=1

Edited 19 April, 201511 yr by mikejay

You could try the following but if it's a really aggressive map or you treat the throttle like a binary switch then you might be wasting your time.

 

In the dry I can invoke wheelspin in 1st & 2nd.  In the wet I can get it in 3rd if I try.

 

• Slippery Diff
• Stickier tyres (Michelin PSS or top range Nitto or similar)
• Lightweight rims
• Lightweight lower control arms
• Better dampers
• more suspension travel / compliance (if you are lowered to the weeds you'll get more wheel spin IMO)
• Anti-Lift console bushes
• In the back of my mind there is some VCDS trickery that can be performed on the later models that changes the aggressivenes of the electronic diff thingy - not sure if applicable to yours?

It could be an aggressive map off a bloke in a van type of thing!!! I would have gone to a trusted mapper had it on the rollers first. But power or not its all controlled by the right foot.....simple solution...learn to drive it properly

Probably tyres or geo or both. I expect my torques is more than yours as I have a Shark mapped diesel with DPF delete, something like 330lb.

For reference, I had Hankook S1 Evo2's which came top of an Evo tyre test a couple of years back. I got on well with them but was shockingly easy in second gear.

Changed to Goodyear Eagle F1's, much less wheelspin.