Any thing I should know before changing the brake fluid on 2009 Octavia VRS.

Cheers.

John.

Yes, get a pressure bleed system such as gunsen easy bleed.

If you have access to VCDS then cycle the ABS before doing the fluid flush.

 

Don't forget the clutch fluid

 

Ideally you should use a low viscosity DOT4 fluid such as Pentosin DOT4 LV,  ATE SL6, Ravenol DOT4 (I'm sure there are others)

Got an easy-bleed kit, but no vag-com.  I'm assuming I'll get access to the slave cylinder by taking the air box assembly off? Car is 2.0 CR

Cheers.

Got an easy-bleed kit, but no vag-com. I'm assuming I'll get access to the slave cylinder by taking the air box assembly off? Car is 2.0 CR

Cheers.

I think you mean the clutch slave cylinder? I had to remove the airbox to bleed the clutch on my 06 pd vrs I'm presuming yours is the same. Just undo each bleed nipple on the brake calipers one at a time to bleed your brakes starting with the one furthest away from the master cylinder iirc. I wouldn't have thought you'd need to bleed the master or anything if the system hasn't been opened. Use your eezibleed kit though they are very good it'll be a lot quicker than pumping the pedal!!

When using the Eezibleed make sure you use the hook to hang the bottle upright and keep an eye on fluid level, I speak from experience when doing the rears. The bottle tipped over unseen and allowed an unknown quantity of air into the system.

Re VCDS ABS module cycling, I don't have it either but take the car for a few ABS activations on poor road surfaces between bleeds. It makes for a longer job but seems to work, shame about the motion sickness!

Never did that ABS nonsense when I bled mine and never had any trouble. It's not even mentioned to do it in the Haynes manual for the mk2.

 

Not trying to be funny but some people seem to like making a fairly simple enough job unnecessarily more complicated than it needs to be :think: . 

I think someone somewhere in a galaxy far far away maybe once had a bit of bother bleeding his brakes and someone suggested activating the ABS pump to aid in bleeding and now it gets mentioned every single time. These bleed kits are very good i never had use of these years ago when working on my old motorbike!! I've never had trouble bleeding systems through though even without running ABS pumps. I think that's only really necessary if the whole system has been filled with air. For an easy flush of clean fluid i really can't see any issue using an ezibleed.

Exactly that... if you force air through the ABS pump by accident, you need somehow to active it a few times.

I'm not suggesting it be done as a matter of course, only when required.

Exactly that... if you force air through the ABS pump by accident, you need somehow to active it a few times.

I'm not suggesting it be done as a matter of course, only when required.

No i know buddy I'm sure its necessary in bad cases. I once replaced a rear caliper and made a bit of a hash. My mechanic mentioned having to run the pump to get all the air out. But for a simple bleed even i couldn't mess that up!!

Got an easy-bleed kit, but no vag-com.  I'm assuming I'll get access to the slave cylinder by taking the air box assembly off? Car is 2.0 CR

Cheers.

have a look at the VCDS map and see if someone can do it for you?  All this black crap comes out.

 

Youi can cycle the pump today & leave the bleed for a week or two - it shouldn't matter.

 

Yes, take the air filter out the first time so you can see where the bleed nipple is.  If you have skinny arms you can dive straight in the next time.

Never did that ABS nonsense when I bled mine and never had any trouble. It's not even mentioned to do it in the Haynes manual for the mk2.

 

Not trying to be funny but some people seem to like making a fairly simple enough job unnecessarily more complicated than it needs to be :think: . 

The idea is to get the rubbish out of the ABS.  Sure, most people don't do it but if you want to do the job 100% and not 95%...

 

Here is the recommended way of flushing the fluid if there is air in the system.  They purge all the air from the system (to protect the ABS controller) and then they perform the basic setting on the ABS.

 

If there is no air then do the basic settings on the ABS first, then purge the fluid.  If you really want to go crazy, do the basic setting, then purge, then do the basic setting again.  As the instructions say, make sure you activate ABS on the road test as well.

Edited 11 June, 201511 yr by brad1.8T

If that's supposed to be the 'correct' procedure then I wonder how many Skoda dealerships actually follow that when they do a service or national fixed price fluid change for under £50. Talk of the letters/words VCDS on it's own (let alone the actual fluid change) and they're usually rubbing their hands with glee, not to mention putting plenty of lube on as they are about to bend you over.

If that's supposed to be the 'correct' procedure then I wonder how many Skoda dealerships actually follow that when they do a service or national fixed price fluid change for under £50. Talk of the letters/words VCDS on it's own (let alone the actual fluid change) and they're usually rubbing their hands with glee, not to mention putting plenty of lube on as they are about to bend you over.

The skoda workshop manual makes no mention of doing anything to the ABS module whilst changing the brake fluid.

Only if the system is drained is it necessary.

As I've said a dozen times before, there are those that follow the manual & those that do a little extra.  I'm the latter.  This is why I always check spark plug gaps before fitting; lubricate brake sliders, clean air filter boxes, etc.  It's probably also why most of the places I worked at couldn't afford my pay rate and why I moved over to fixing aircraft.  They don't seem to mind fussy workers.

 

I agree, there probably aren't too many dealerships that cycle the ABS.