Huh... My early elegance had the three button key.

 

 Not that early, mine was built Sept 2000 & I bought new Feb 2001

 

So a 3 button key fob would by pass the switch and wiring if it's not well?

 

Nope as it just sends a signal to the "convenience" module which then activates the voltage for the boot switch, if the boot switch/lock is fubar then it will still be fubar.

Think mine was a 52 plate.

As for ruling it out, the button would rule out the switch (the switch you press on the tailgate) since it's not being used. I'd think...

As for ruling it out, the button would rule out the switch (the switch you press on the tailgate) since it's not being used. I'd think...

 

It rules out the outside handle as both the internal (if fitted) lever & the remote activate the solenoid rubber plunger in the boot lock (main car body) to push against the orange stub lever on the hatch lock mechanism.

might be totally different on higher spec models, but my car has manual release as standard ,but on the release mech, there's a option to fit a cable for LHD cars.

Yep same for the vrs, everything is there to route the cabling u just need to swap over the metalwork in the drivers area for a two lever setup as apposed to one

Since fitting the botch of a bike brake lever to open the boot. The lock has been working ok. Leaving it on in case but thinking switch rather than the wiring.

Any pics/docs? That would be helpful. I just bought a 2005 Fab and when it rains the boot won't open

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Any pics/docs? That would be helpful. I just bought a 2005 Fab and when it rains the boot won't open

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Didnt have any pictures as my freedom membership expired so i wouldnt be able to upload any (members perk).

 

Its really easy to do. 

 

Find yourself a two lever replacement for down by the drivers side (the bit where you open the fuel lid from inside the car) and respective cable.

Remove the carpet and plastic trim moving back through the car, you'll see the cable from the fuel lid lever, trace that back towards the rear of the car.

You'll notice where you're following the cable that its clipped into retainers at certain points, and that there should be a free space to clip another cable.

Using the new cable you have with the lever (if its for the boot you need to drill the hole slightly larger in one of the lever retention clips (the cable is held into the steelwork by virtue of the little steel cylinder on the end of it)) It needs drilling out as on mine the other hole for the fuel cable was smaller than the boot one.

Run the new cable across towards the back of the car following the fuel cable path, run it towards the boot and remove the boot plastics around the locking mechanism

From here you'll see a small section for the cylinder on the cable to fit onto on the boot lock (mess around with the steelwork on the lock you'll understand which bit i mean, it connects onto the arm that unlocks the boot (not the orange section, the actual metalwork))

From there, connect it up, tighten up and enjoy

Thanks I'll try it in the weeknd

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Tempted to do this actually, Just as one of them other "OEM+" modifications that make no difference.

Tempted to do this actually, Just as one of them other "OEM+" modifications that make no difference.

 

It makes loads of difference haha I can open the boot without getting out now - besides it saves wear on the electronic switch on the off chance its started to age 

Is there a part number for levers?

Is there a part number for levers?

 

Double lever assembly 6Y2827611 (RHD)

 

Boot cable (RHD hatchback only) 6Y6827532C

Meanwhile I've got the trick. If I open the left back door magically the boot works fine rain or not )

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Double lever assembly 6Y2827611 (RHD)

Boot cable (RHD hatchback only) 6Y6827532C

Thanks.