hiya guys can anyone of u recomend a good hd wax for red cars thats at a reasonable price would prefer a liquid wax if its possible all help much appreciated thanks guys

Autoglym High Defintion Wax

May I ask if Durability is required?

Red comes up well with nearly all waxes, but some are more durable than others

I would use Bilt Hamber Autobalm, for a great wet shine and up to 6 months durability with two coats

My old Civic with BHAB applied:

car is having a full respray in a few weeks so am basically wanting to wax and protect after the respray and leave best looking glossy finish i can get

May I ask if Durability is required?

Red comes up well with nearly all waxes, but some are more durable than others

I would use Bilt Hamber Autobalm, for a great wet shine and up to 6 months durability with two coats

My old Civic with BHAB applied:

 

looks stunning mate and would be very happy if i can get a finish like that after the respray as i now have the snow foam hd lance ph neutral snow foam and gold class car wash polish wise only have poorboys black hole so am looking to get something decent that will last around 6 months if possible and if there is a better polish im happy to get but was looking at the meguiars gold class liquid wax also do u have a link to the bilt and hamber autobalm any help much appreciated mate

Edited 24 August, 201510 yr by sav26

eBay is the most competitive :

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.XBilt+Hamber+Autobalm.TRS0&_nkw=Bilt+Hamber+Autobalm&_sacat=0

^{collinite no 476 super double coat  auto wax (paste) or collinite  no. 845 insulator wax (liquid) , I use the 476 and lasts for ages , better with 2 coats a couple of hours apart and it is easy to put on and take of as long as you do a small area at a time eg quarter roof / bonnet or half door panel.}

Edited 29 August, 201510 yr by millser

If your car is being resprayed you will want to leave it a while before applying a wax to allow the paint to gas out.  You could apply Duragloss 111 as this will give a nice wet finish, offer protection, is in liquid state and allows the paint to breath

Just googled it

Ive heard of Duragloss, but not 111

Why do some manufacturers call it Polish when clearly its a synthetic sealant?...LOL

It appears to be totally out of stock in the UK too, unless you know otherwise Rob

Thanks for the heads up though

http://www.ccs-inc.co.uk/sb-products.asp?productid=2325&category=86 there you go and in Stock

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Used Gtechniq c2v3 here after I had paint done on the car as it allows the paint to gas off.

If your car is being resprayed you will want to leave it a while before applying a wax to allow the paint to gas out.  You could apply Duragloss 111 as this will give a nice wet finish, offer protection, is in liquid state and allows the paint to breath

Not sure of the meaning of this 'Gas out' expression, I assume its 'Cure'

I found this:

 

Articles on Car Paint

Don't wax your car for at least 30 days!

 

• Have you ever been told not to wax your car for at least 30 days by a painter after having the car painted?

• Perhaps someone has said not to wax or seal the paint because the paint needs to breathe?

• Or have you read a thread about this topic on a discussion forum?

Let me see if I can explain what this means and why people are told this...

The reason painters tell you not to wax fresh paint is for two reasons which are connected...

 

First, there's not a single paint manufacture that I know of that recommends sealing, (that means applying a substance that coats over and protects), fresh paint. This is where you'll find people that will argue with you but unless they work for the paint manufacture, then what they post is their

opinion

, not an

official recommendation

of a "Paint Manufacture".

Second, painters will tend to follow paint manufacturer's recommendations because they respect the paint manufacture but also to insure you don't mess up their work. The idea behind NOT sealing fresh paint is to let it outgas completely. This is where some will argue that modern paints harden through chemically curing or catalyzing, and not via solvent evaporation. But again, if the person making the recommendation does not work for the paint manufacture, then what they post is their opinion, not an official recommendation.

The clear layer of paint is still mixed with solvents, also called reducers; these are used to custom thin the paint to the painter's preference, to the sprayer and to the climate and/or paint booth. After spraying, some of these solvents will evaporate off.

After the solvents evaporate off and the paint dries to dust-free or tack-free, that is the surface of the paint is now cured and/or hard enough that if air-borne dust lands on the paint it won't stick to the paint.

After another day or two, maybe longer depending upon the shops normal practices, the paint can be sanded and buffed if that's part of the package.

Whether it's sanded and buffed or turned back over to the painter, at this point the painter will say something like,

"Wait 30 days before applying a car wax"

He might even say,

"You need to wait 30 days before applying a coat of wax to allow the paint to breathe"

This is a generic way of saying,

"Wait 30 days before using any product that can seal the paint to prevent or hinder any and all solvents to outgas or evaporate out of an off of the paint"

Now this is where some people on discussion forums will want to start to argue and say you can apply brand X because it's not a wax, or you can use anything because the paint is chemically cured, or you can wax the paint because you can't seal a clear coat, or fill in the blank...

What the painter really means...

The bigger idea the painter is trying to get across is to not apply any substance that creates a barrier coating over the surface that could "potentially" lock or seal in the solvents and prevent them from out-gassing or evaporating.

This gets into a discussion about what's "Body Shop Safe" and what's not "Body Shop Safe", and to some level, you an use the term "Body Shop Safe" to also describe "Fresh Paint Safe".

Products that are "Fresh Paint Safe" are also "Body Shop Safe" and that's because these product won't contain any ingredients that will cause "Surface Tension" which will usually show up as "Fish Eyes" in the paint.

Most, if not all waxes and paint sealants, and also most spray or quick detailers are NOT body shop safe and thus would not be safe for fresh paint according to the paint manufacturer's recommendation or their painter's recommendation.

Basically, if a product is known for, or famous for making water bead on car paint, (that thing we all love to see), then if the ingredients in the product that are responsible for making water bead would also try to make fresh paint sprayed onto a car try to bead only this would show up as fish eyes.

From a "purist" point of view, that is a person that is in a position to not have to seal the paint for approximately 30 days, then waiting simply insures that if there are any ingredients at all that could evaporate or outgas then this person can play it safe and allow the paint to fully dry and cure for the 30 days or longer.

Some people don't have this option and will be putting their car back into service they day they get it back and will want to apply something to the paint to protect it.

Outgassing is the process by which solvents and other substances used to mix the paint try to leave the paint is the reason behind why painters will often say,

"Don't wax your car for 30 days"

Sometimes this is just an insurance policy on the part of the painter because he knows his paint is durable and will last a long time with nothing applied to the paint and since they don't know you, your background, your skill level etc., let along what you have out in the garage that you might spread over their brand new work of art, they will error on the side of caution and again, tell you...

"Don't wax your car for 30 days"

Make sense?

After posting this some people will chime in and argue one of the above points and/or say they used this product or some other product on their "fresh paint" and nothing bad ever happened.

So I will point out, I never posted my opinion or recommendation in the above, I just explained in detail what's going on and why historically you're told not to wax your car's fresh paint and how that relates to other products that are not called car waxes specifically, but would have the potential to do the same thing a car wax would do if they were applied to fresh paint.

 

Term gassing out in relevence to solvents etc. Body shop free is products that are silicone free and i have to prove all my products are otherwise there is risk of contaminating other cars.

I only recommend duragloss 111 after the owner at css, previously a director at one of the leading automotive paint manufacturers, recommended it as a solution to the 30 day rule

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I use Poorboys wax with good results, very happy with it.