Central locking fault - intermittent!

[daykes1]

Hi Guys,

 

I have a mk1 octavia 2004 PD130 estate.

 

Before anyone asks, yes I have already been through the vast number of 'central locking fault' topics using the search box.

 

My issue: when I lock my car using the fob it can either unlock itself straight away, once, or rapidly until I interupt it by pressing a button on the fob or by opening a door. While its having a fit the front internal light (next to the sunroof) stays on & the hazards flash constantly. However, I dont have this issue everytime I lock it.

 

Its done it twice in the last month. But last night it went on for nearly an hour....the neighbours were not impressed. Luckily, I had switched the internal light off so as not to drain the battery too fast.

 

Ive already checked:

 

under the cd changer for a pool of water - bone dry.

 

pulled the tail gate plastic trim off & checked for water but again - bone dry.

 

No fault codes.

 

Car battery seems fine & altenator also charging.

 

Nothing on the dash to indicate anything is wrong either (the door ajar symbol). No fault codes either.

 

I also do not have an issue while the car is moving. I have electric windows, electric sunroof & heated mirrors - all working perfectly. I have 2 fobs & have the same issue whichever one i use.

 

Could the fob batteries be running low?

 

Can anyone think of anything that might be causing it or how I what I can try next?

 

Thanks in advance!

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Guest]

Have you tried looking in the CCM for fault codes?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[daykes1]

CCM fault codes? I've tried using a fault code reader but its said there wasnt any stored

[Guest]

Central Convenience Module, you need VCDS probably.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[daykes1]

Is that something only a garage can do?

[YellowCar]

Have you checked the multiplug in the window motor and loom in the door? Doesn't sound like the microswitch in the lock mech is helping much either, I would start with the multiplug connections and the loom for fatigue/breakages, could be that the multiplug unit is internally goosed mind

[Guest]

Join a group on Facebook called VCDS Users and they have a map on their pinned post of locations of members that have VCDS in you area.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[kentphil1]

Or check out the VCDS users section on here - http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com/ as a lot of us don't go near facebook.

 

I think YellowCar is onthe right track here, as it sounds like you either have water in the control module or one of the pins to it is not in best of health.

 

Have you any water leaks into the car interior at all - any wet carpets?, as the CCM does not play well when wet as simspj has already mentioned.

 

A hand held code scanner unfortunately wont communicate with the locks and central electronics as it only looks at major units - engine, abs. airbags etc., so VCDS is your better option there,

 

Edit - one last thing, does the led on the key fob flash when you press one of the buttons on it?,

Edited 22 November, 2015 by kentphil1

[daykes1]

YellowCar: multiplug in the window motor and loom in the door? Which door are you referring to? Is there only one module? Or one in each door?

 

Simspj: joined the group thanks.

 

Kentphil1: Funny you mention water leaks - I've just (this evening) finished putting the carpet/sound insulation back in the car (I had a soaking wet passenger & rear passenger carpet) The cause was the compost behind the inner wheel arch not allowing any water to drain away. 

[daykes1]

Kentphil1: Yes the LED flashes when I use either fob to unlock/lock the car

[YellowCar]

YellowCar: multiplug in the window motor and loom in the door? Which door are you referring to? Is there only one module? Or one in each door?

 

Simspj: joined the group thanks.

 

Kentphil1: Funny you mention water leaks - I've just (this evening) finished putting the carpet/sound insulation back in the car (I had a soaking wet passenger & rear passenger carpet) The cause was the compost behind the inner wheel arch not allowing any water to drain away.

Start with the drivers door as ultimately problems here have a major knock on effect and faults with the microswitch in the lock mech are most common in this door because of the amount it's shut compared to others, people reckon this is what stresses and fractures the switch. Also faults of this nature commonly come back to seriously corroded/broken pins in this door. Why the drivers door suffers more water ingress than others is one of life's mysteries.

[kentphil1]

Kentphil1: Yes the LED flashes when I use either fob to unlock/lock the car

That would tend to suggest your fob is sending a signal and that the battery is not completely flat, however, whether it is strong enough over longer distances/denser air, may mean the battery is waning. 

 

If you feel like you want to change the fob battery and are confident to do so, then it is not an expensive item to renew, but I don't think it is the fault in your case as it is communicating enough to start the lock cycling.

[kentphil1]

Check this out - http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/336309-how-to-check-and-protect-your-door-multiplugs/

 

YellowCar just about covers all the bases in the how to, anything you don't fully understand, just ask - were here to help

[kentphil1]

Kentphil1: Funny you mention water leaks - I've just (this evening) finished putting the carpet/sound insulation back in the car (I had a soaking wet passenger & rear passenger carpet) The cause was the compost behind the inner wheel arch not allowing any water to drain away. 

The CCM is located near the steering wheel behind the dash, so floor leaks probably have made no impact, but screen leaks can.

 

Yes, there is a control unit in each door, but the o/s/f carries the lions share of the load and tends to be the most problematic together with the loom to it.

[pjgrantham]

Folks rather than starting another Central locking thread, I hope it's OK to ask my question here.

I have an 2003 Octavia VRS and 90% of the time the drivers door will not unlock using the keyfob. Sometimes pressing the keyfob again will open the drivers door. Or locking again then opening will open all the doors.

The central locking appear to be sluggish, by that I mean it's like there isn't a good voltage getting to the locking system. However if I use the lock/unload button on the arm rest, the lock pop up and down a lock quicker! Which implies the locking servos are OK.

Before anyone asks.... I have checked the wiring loom and connections in the drivers door especially the connections on the multi plug on the bottom of the window motor.

I cannot confirm what happens if I use the key as the key barrel has half a key broken off in it and as yet I haven't managed to replace it, so I'm relying on the keyfob at the moment, and one day I'll get locked out of the car if I don't get this sorted.

I'm guessing that wherever the signal to unlock the doors is coming from (when using the keyfob) is a bit weak, because as I said before everything works well from the armrest switch.

Any ideas what / where I should be looking?

[YellowCar]

As said above if your multiplug connections look ok there could be an unseen internal fault in the module. Do you have any issues with interior lighting when opening drivers door? Does your 'left your lights on' buzzer work? If there's an intermittent fault there that points to the lock mech microswitch. As that's the only thing left in the drivers door that can be done on the cheap, I'd try a lock mech next, however as I say it could still be the module. Have you checked the loom where it passes through door pillars? Plus while it 'looks' ok, the outers could still be concealing fractured or fatigued wires, you need a multimeter on it really, don't ask me how to use one round there though I'm no sparky.

[kentphil1]

As YellowCar has said it could still be water damage inside the module. I have had a situation where I have removed a plug for a module on a person's car and sat there while just over an egg cup of water ran out of the module itself.

 

If water has found its way into the module and over a period of time, has compromised the waterproofing, then really for all intents and purposes, the unit is toast, even though it may be functioning in a reduced capacity. Unfortunately, only you can tell this as you are looking at your car and we are not, but any sign of green build-up no matter how small does not bode well.

 

As regards the door lock, if you look at this thread - http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/341937-octavia-door-lock-problem-diagnoserepair-guide/  - you will see that more than one microswitch lives inside the lock, and they all control the signals to the module regardless of if the solenoid is working or not. So in essence, you could have a working solenoid, but 1 or 2 microswitches could be failing resulting in an intermittent locking fault.

 

I am not for one moment suggesting that you repair the switches like that member has, it was purely to show how and what they do. It is far quicker and economical to use a new lock from ebay that many members are successfully using now.

 

I hope I have not confused you as my intention was to "fill in the gaps" with a bit of extra info, I hope it helps.

 

Phil.

 

Edit - Oh and welcome to Briskoda

Edited 5 December, 2015 by kentphil1

[Arminator]

To give my small contribution.

Few days ago the lock on drivers door of my started to make troubles. All doors would lock except drivers door. So I took the lock mechanism out and when I disassembled it I found the following issue. On the photo you can find attached, one part of the plastic in yellow circle got broken and it got stuck between plastics in the red circle jamming the door lock and not allowing it to unlock. I fixed it by removing the broken part and reattaching the rest of broken plastic to its holder by very small cable tie so it could move and be attached at the same time.