Skip to content

Guess the problem! =D

Featured Replies

Okay.

Car originally made a slight clunk upon start off. It's been wet so dismissed it as sticky brakes.

Slowly turned into a clunk upon application of throttle and break and on hard breaking a good shunt under the footwell.

Now I've got a loud crunching, creaking sound every time I break and accelerate from stop or slow speeds but does disappear once above 30mph.

The crunching and creaking is worse when turning right and full lock is deafening.

While driving there is what sounds like my wheels are full of nails spinning round. Can only hear this in an echoey environment.

So have a guess. car is gradually getting worse and worse with each drive. Car is booked into garage next Monday under warranty for few issues. But may take it to a garage tomorrow if they can figure it out and it be a cheap repair.

(Don't ask but I like getting things done quickly rather than waiting and I tend to pay to save waiting for warranty work)

Car has already been to a local independent who are very trustworthy, albeit two old guys who want light work to tick them over. They insist the car is solid underneath and will be interested to know what the problem is.

Thanks for reading my essay!

Well my money is on a Broken Spring.  

I have broken 2,

Drivers side.

 

I really thought it was brakes, CV / Drive shaft the first time i had one, 

i was amazed when stripped to see it broken top and bottom.

 

2nd time, different car. i knew what i was hearing.

 

PS

If i am correct it really is not safe to drive, 

but i did first time, 300 miles round trip, checked it when i got there, jacked car up, never spotted broken spring, 

drove home, and never spotted spring broken until removed.

 

....................................

?

What Warranty Issues have you?

Edited by GoneOffskiroottoot

  • Author

It's back (again) multiple misfires. It had brand new OEM coil packs and plugs before Christmas.

Manifold absolute pressure, barometric pressure circuit high. A camshaft position bank 1. Timing retarded.

Lots of issues. Just don't want to give up on it yet, such a good car! Not had it long but a good case to prove a faulty vehicle when I need to give it back.

I'll drop into the garage tomorrow that are in the business of wanting money and are reasonably priced.

Remind me please, Age and mileage.

 

Inlet Manifold issue maybe, 

a post from Newbie69 has the part numbers.

His was done under warranty why back, so were a couple of other members.

 

So did they fit 4 new Coils and 4 New Spark Plugs under warranty?

Latest Software update on the ECU?

  • Author

2011 Cave. Just gone 34k.

It had misfire issues before. They swapped a coil pack over. Can't remember which one. But took it upon myself to have the whole lot changed for the price of the parts and a tenner.

Skoda have had it for diagnostic December. Unsure whether they updated the ECU. (Will SUK know if it has this?)

Just ask the Service Desk if you can speak with the Technician,

ask him / her when they diagnose can they ensure the car is running the latest software update from Skoda for the CAVE Engine Fabia vRS.

 

If they did warranty work before the work sheet should show what they did and got paid for.

They are the professionals supposedly.

 

Maybe ask the technician if he knows off hand what the gap is on the latest Spark Plugs for the Twincharger.

  • Author

I'll just add that the car wasn't from Skoda unfortunately. But from a car supermarket well known in the midlands.

(Poor research before buying vehicle)

I'll check paperwork from when it was in if it mentions an update. Will phone SUK if any warranty work was done.

I went to buy a fiesta ST but had a drive in my VRS and I was sold with the DSG and price and immediately bought.

Won't make that mistake again when buying a used car!

  • Author

Wouldn't the plugs come ready gapped as they were from TPS?

The plugs will have come gapped and they should have been the ones that Skoda changed to from 2012 and gapped at 0.7mm,

and the tech just checks the GAP.

 

Hopefully they can diagnose what is causing the misfires.

 

What sort of workshop is it that is dealing with the Misfire, do they specialise in VW's?

  • Author

It'll be the car supermarkets work shop. They'll be massively under pressure to get jobs done, and I imagine they'll specialise in nothing. And have many cars to see to. They do seek outside help if needs be. Just got to wait for a courtesy car before I take it to them,

As I've had it less than 3 months, it goes to them. After that I'll use the warranty I bought with the car.

I hope they sort it too. I really do love the car.

  • Author

Had the car in to local independent. Always fixed my cars and they have succeeded again.

If I can remember what he told me. It was lower gearbox mount. One of the bushes was shot. All quiet now and a joy to drive!

He did tell me that their was abit of oil in the pipe that goes to the air box though which is worrying!

Could this have something to do with the manifold absolute pressure fault I have. Leaky turbo? Only throws the flashing EML light at me when at high revs. Mine isn't using oil since I've had it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

Recently Browsing 0

  • No registered users viewing this page.

Important Information

Welcome to BRISKODA. Please note the following important links Terms of Use. We have a comprehensive Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Account

Navigation

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.