Is this normal?

 

Ive changed to the 150ph headbolts, and noticed the car takes ages to warm up.

That will be just the recent cold snap I'd guess.

Nothing to do with the head bolts.

Is this normal?

 

Ive changed to the 150ph headbolts, and noticed the car takes ages to warm up.

 

As above, it should bear no correlation to warm up time.

hmm was before the cold snap, infact i did it when we had a warm snap of 12c. But if it has no relevance what would? thermostat? Ive changed the temp sensor not long ago, and coolant is relatively fresh. Nothing showing up as a issue on a diagnostic.

 

It takes 12 miles down the mortor way to warm up, before it was before i got on the motorway lol

Edited 25 February, 201610 yr by FromTheDarkness

If your going by the temp gauge it could be your new sensor.

 

Could be your thermostats stuck open slightly,if you follow the top hose to the engine block the thermostat is in the plastic housing bolted to block

In fact tbh its hardly ever on 90c as it used too, it now rests on about 80 after a long run.

 

Would you suggest changing changing the sensor as it may be faulty?

Does the heater seem colder? If so it will be the thermostat.

My moneys on the thermostat.

Edited 26 February, 201610 yr by SuperbTWM

Does the heater seem colder? If so it will be the thermostat.

Slightly but tbh with so many flap errors its hard to judge. It either gets turned on full (if cold) it does take ages to warm up, in line with the lengh of time the engine takes( it wasnt up to temp after 20 mortor way mile today) or off if its hot :P

They are well known for over cooling in the winter.

I would change the thermostat before changing your sensor again.

Why did you change the head bolts? Or did you just change type after having the head off?

Why did you change the head bolts? Or did you just change type after having the head off?

PD150 head bolts are higher tensile,12.9, compared to the PD130 ones which are 10.8.

People upgrade to them to stop head lift,quite a common thing on the VRS once boost is raised

They are well known for over cooling in the winter.

I would change the thermostat before changing your sensor again.

 

hmm then is it just a guessing game? should i wait to see if it progressively gets worst/ improves with warmer weather?

 

Are there any symptoms ie running rough, using more fuel etc?

hmm then is it just a guessing game? should i wait to see if it progressively gets worst/ improves with warmer weather?

 

Are there any symptoms ie running rough, using more fuel etc?

If its a MK I, the thermostat would benefit from being changed anyway, they don't take long before they start opening too early (which you don't see because of the software 'frigs' on the temp gauge)

 

At least you know your engine will be running more efficiently and your heater will be at its best

ok better get my haynes out, as i dont see a guide anywhere :(

And make sure you get a genuine OEM thermostat. I know some will say that non OEM branded parts will be just as good, and they may be right, but there are that many fakes around these days, especially on the net, so be careful where you get them from.

And make sure you get a genuine OEM thermostat. I know some will say that non OEM branded parts will be just as good, and they may be right, but there are that many fakes around these days, especially on the net, so be careful where you get them from.

does anything else need replacing, housing, washers, flange, o rings, clips?

does anything else need replacing, housing, washers, flange, o rings, clips?

Comes as a kit with seals

You will lose alot of coolant

does anything else need replacing, housing, washers, flange, o rings, clips?

As Coskev has already said, make sure it comes as a kit, if not you will need just 1 or 2 'O' rings IIRC.

 

You can re-use the housing as long as you don't break it getting it of or tighten it too much

 

Be carefull when removing the housing, it has 2 plastic prongs that lock into the thermostat and are broken easily if you don't twist it off. Its not much of a detriment if you do break them however it just makes it easier to assemble. I think you are supposed to lock the stat onto the flange and then bolt it on but when you remove it the stat likes to stick in the head which means you have to either twist the flange off or just pull it and break the lugs.

 

I hope that makes sense.

Edited 27 February, 201610 yr by SuperbTWM

As Coskev has already said, make sure it comes as a kit, if not you will need just 1 or 2 'O' rings IIRC.

 

You can re-use the housing as long as you don't break it getting it of or tighten it too much

 

Be carefull when removing the housing, it has 2 plastic prongs that lock into the thermostat and are broken easily if you don't twist it off. Its not much of a detriment if you do break them however it just makes it easier to assemble. I think you are supposed to lock the stat onto the flange and then bolt it on but when you remove it the stat likes to stick in the head which means you have to either twist the flange off or just pull it and break the lugs.

 

I hope that makes sense.

Not really, im sure it will when im at it, unfortunately my local TPS could not use their pcs so no orders.... so that knocked that on the head for today. Thanks for the guidance, im sure it will make scene when im on the job

Yeah that's a really good description of the job to be fair!

I'd take overcooling to undercooling all day long .... stuck open thermostat isn't anywhere near as bad as a stuck shut one I can tell you!

I'd take overcooling to undercooling all day long .... stuck open thermostat isn't anywhere near as bad as a stuck shut one I can tell you!

Not sure how you can tell either way?  Without it literally over heating.

 

Mine shows no sign of actual over heating, so if my dial reads 50 degree when in fact its 90 degree, then its not over heating, But as i presume the thermostat is not opening enough > signal to temp sender shows lower than it is?

 

Or have i got this all wrong :p

Edited 28 February, 201610 yr by FromTheDarkness

Change the thermostat and go from there. I have a feeling that it will be sorted with a new one.

Not sure how you can tell either way?  Without is literally over heating.

 

Mine shows no sign of actual over heating, so if my dial reads 50 degree when in fact its 90 degree, then its not over heating, But as i presume the thermostat is not opening enough > signal to temp sender shows lower than it is?

 

Or have i got this all wrong :p

Normally they open earlier as they get older, I've never had one start to open too late unless it has failed shut completely to where you can't use the car