regards

I have a 2000 Skoda Felicia GLX carburetor.

 

but a few months ago to here when I turn the lights down the rpm slowly to the point 300 RPM slightest failing to shut down. if I try to raise electric crystals also lower the rpm.

 

but when the lights are off sometimes idles, low 800 RPM to 500 RPM. accelerating a little stays stable at 800 RPM.

although I have direct fan.

 

I have connect the vacuum gauge needle here but stable fast OSILA between 22 and 20 inHg is not

 

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saludos

tengo una skoda felicia 2000 glx carburador.

 

pero de hace unos meses para aca cuando prendo las luces las rpm bajan lentamente,  hasta el punto mas minimo de 300 RPM  fallando para apagarse. si trato de subir los cristales electrico tambien bajan las rpm.

 

pero cuando las luces estan apagadas a veces en relenti, baja de 800 RPM a 500 RPM. se acelera un poco se queda estable en 800 RPM.

aunque tengo el abanico directo.

 

conecte el vacuometro que tengo aqui pero la aguja no se queda estable osila rapido entre 22 y 20 inhg 

How old is the battery?

Any warning lights?

Why do you keep the radiator fan running all the time?

Are you using coolant or water?

 

Please make a list with every electrical and engine modification.

 

PS

Next time choose a more meaningful title for your topic.

Edited 18 March, 201610 yr by RicardoM

Thanks for your prompt response.

 

I am thinking of a V8 engine skoda felicia titles but it would be very exaggerated.

 

1) my battery have a battery LTH L-42-500 purchased a month ago. that which had been damaged by time.

 

2) new distributor, you I had him hurt coil and had a little play.

 

3) on the board does not turn on any lights warning within normal range 13.1V generation engine off, ignition with the engine idles 14.5V brand.

 

4) does not have any high power consumption, only the clock

 

5) If the fan is always on March 30 trabajere an electrician to place by temperature, buy the car with the fan so.

 

6) my engine mark above 130 psi in the 4-cylinder consumes no water, does mayonnaise in the oil cap, does not waste oil, does not smoke. steam only in the morning when you turn.

 

7)) When buying the vehicle came with water and then they said this was aluminum cylinder head. the head seals, valves, cylinder head and brushing new originals work together. since then only uses prestones 50/50

 

I think oil change, oil filter, fuel filter and spark plugs. but not if you have something to do.

also it is consuming a lot of fuel!

 

truth take care of my car I love him, but not this happening this I despair :-(

 

You think it's dirty carburetor?

not reviewed the color of the spark plug.

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Gracias por tu pronta respuesta.

 

pensaba en un titulos skoda felicia motor V8 pero seria muy exagerado.

 

1) mi bateria tengo una  bateria LTH  L-42-500 comprada hace un mes. por que la que tenia se dañado por el tiempo.

 

2) distribuidor nuevo, te que tenia se le daño la bobina y tenia un poco de juego.

 

3)en el tablero no prende ninguna luces de advertencia generacion en rangos normales 13.1V motor apagado, encendido con el motor al relenti marca 14.5v.

 

4) no tiene ningun consumo electrico alto, solo el reloj

 

5) si el abanico esta siempre encendido el 30 de marzo trabajere con un electricista para colocarlos por temperatura, compre el auto con el abanico asi.

 

6) mi motor marca por encima de 130 psi en los 4 cilindros, no consume agua, no hace mayonesa en el tapon de aceite, no gasta aceite, no humea. solo vapor en las mañanas al encender.

 

7)cuando compre el vehiculo vino con agua luego me dijeron que esa culata era de aluminio. se trabajo la culata sellos, valvulas, cepillado de culata y juntas nuevas originales. desde ese entonces solo utiliza prestones 50/50 

 

pienso cambiar aceite, filtro de aceite, filtro de gasolina y bujias. aunque no se si tiene algo que ver.

tambien esta consumiendo mucho combustible!

 

la verdad cuido mucho mi carro lo amo, pero no se que le esta pasando esto me desespera :-(

 

Crees que sea el carburador sucio?

no revisado el color de la bujia.

Edited 19 March, 201610 yr by Pollito

A dirty carburetor will make the engine start poorly, run sluggish waste a lot of gas. I would reccomend spraying a lot of carb cleaner through it as it is cheap.

That voltage is good also

Maybe wrong fuel mixture ? You can adjust it by the screw in the carb. Also you can take out a spark plug and check if its black in soot. It should be brown/greyish colour.

Mayonnaise is due to condensation when only when cold and also the steam is because of condensation until the engine warms up. Are you sure there are no vacuum leaks ? Is it running stable or a bit rough ?

Pollito,

A good topic title will help other members to find easier the solution for their problems when they search thousands of titles in this section. A forum is a community, so we care, right? We already know what type of car you have, it is written under your avatar. That is why I suggested a better title for future topics. A title that describes in short how the problem manifests. For example "Engine stalls when headlights on".

 

Now back to your topic. Tell me, the engine stalls every time when you turn the headlights on? It does the same if you turn on any other big electrical consumer (rear window heater, blower on high speed) ? Such problem occurs only if there is not enough current left for electronic ignition to produce a strong spark. In that case the problem is the wiring. Yellow and black wires that go to ignition coil and electronic ignition should have the correct thickness (section) without any broken strands inside.

 

You should also check if the electromagnetic shutoff valve of the carburetor has the connector well attached and without corrosion. Check the connector on the valve itself and also the intermediate connector.

 

Next on the list is a vacuum leak under the carburetor. It is the most frequent cause for high fuel consumption, followed by a weak spark and a dirty air filter.

regards

 

Check all cables coil, module, coil cable distributor, I checked the cable to the solenoid valve of the carburetor. All this is fine.

 

I decided to clean the carburetor

As says this post http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/367304-skoda-favorit-pierburg-puzzle/ and others that look in the forum.

1) remove the vacuum pulldown. The minimum temperature here is 16 ° C

2) but not something you particularly enrichment valve, this alrevez. (The leave as is)

 

The car feels much stronger. Without excessive fuel consumption.

But the idling remains stable for four seconds and then drops 200 rpm. 800 rpm spend again 4 seconds and falls back to 200 rpm. With the fan off does none of this.

 

Carburetor after cleaning tests:

1) current vacuum pressure of 21 inHg.

2) before closing the mixture screw off the car

3) sharp whistle totally clean, without gurgling.

 

electrical testing.

The fan is direct.

1) auto idle 800 rpm, turn on the light. = Not low rpm.

2) auto idle 800 rpm, lights off, turn on the radio. = No low rpm

3) auto idle 800 rpm, lights, lit radio. = Engine off point

4) auto idle 800 rpm, fan off, lights on, on radio. = Not low rpm.

 

When the electric charge is very large stalls?

 

My alternator is 120 amps (Motorcraft)

alternator positive cable to the battery.

3 big battery negative.

 

Believe me I do not know because the engine becomes unstable.

 

 

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Saludos 

 

Verifique todos los cables del coil, modulo, cables de la bobina del distribuidor, verifiqué el cable que va a la electro válvula del carburador. Todo esto está bien.

 

Me decidí a limpiar el carburador 

Tal como dice  este post http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/367304-skoda-favorit-pierburg-puzzle/ y otros más que busque en el foro. 

1) retire el vacuum pulldown. La temperatura mínima aquí es 16ºc

2) pero no te algo particular  la válvula de enriquecimiento,  esta alrevez. (La deje tal como está)

 

El auto se siente mucho más fuerza. Sin gasto excesivo de combustible.

Pero el ralentí se queda estable por 4 segundo y luego cae 200 rpm. Vuelve a 800 rpm pasan 4 segundos más y vuelve a caer 200 rpm. Con el abanico apagado no hace nada de esto.

 

Pruebas carburador después de limpiarlo:

1) presión de vacio actual 21 inhg. 

2) antes de cerrar el tornillo de la mezcla el carro se apaga

3) silbido agudo totalmente limpio, sin gargareo.

 

Pruebas eléctricas.

El abanico esta directo.

1) auto a ralentí 800 rpm, enciendo la luz. = no baja rpm.

2) auto a ralentí 800 rpm, luces apagadas, enciendo el radio.  = no baja rpm

3) auto a ralentí 800 rpm, luces encendidas,  encendido radio. = motor a punto de apagarse

4) auto a ralentí 800 rpm, abanico apagado,  luces encendidas, encendido radio. = no baja rpm.

 

¿Cuando la carga eléctrica es muy grande se cala? 

 

Mi alternador es de 120 amperios (motorcraft)

Cable positivo del alternador a la batería.

big 3 en negativo de la batería. 

 

Créeme no sé porque se vuelve inestable el motor.

My first observation is that the carburetor works perfectly. Good vacuum, good mixture, good idle.

Only a very well set carburetor can idle at very low rpm as you described.

 

The only thing that could lower the rpm at idle is a mechanical restriction of the idle circuit of the carburetor.

Two things can restrict the idle circuit: the mixture screw, and the electromagnetic shutoff valve (ESOV).

The only one that could be influenced by an electrical load variation is the ESOV.

 

Let's do this test:

engine at idle (800 rpm) no electrical load. Disconnect the connector of ESOV. Does the engine stop? Or does it run at 200 rpm ?

 

Another thing that could create weird problems is bad wiring of third party electrical consumers such as: radio, amplifier, alarm, etc. Any mistake or any unprofessional intervention on factory wiring could have bad consequences.

regards

RicardoM.

Testsov: idling at 800 rpm, turning off the valve ESOV the engine shuts down.

I saw a little damaged wiring, replace with a new cable.

but acidentalmente touch the module saw was a little soil, demonte but I saw where it was installed not to good land, you conectate cable negative battery module to earth.

 

RicardoM. my problem was resolved there.

 

Rpm up to 1000 rpm alone, turn on lights and stereo low 900 rpm.

ONLY 100 RPM WoW!

Very stable.

 

THANKS TO ALL PEOPLE WHO PARTICIPATED IN THE SOLUTION OF THIS PROBLEM.

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Saludos 

 

RicardoM. 

 

Test ESOV: ralentí a 800 rpm, al desconectar la valvula ESOV se apaga el motor.

vi el cableado un poco deteriorado, reemplace por cable nuevo.

 

pero acidentalmente  toque el modulo vi estaba un poco suelo, lo demonte pero vi que donde estaba instalado no hacia buena tierra, le conectate un cable  del negativo de la bateria a la tierra del modulo. 

 

RicardoM. ahi se resolvio mi problema. 

 

Las rpm subieron solas a 1000 rpm, enciendo luces y el stereo baja a 900 rpm.  

SOLO 100 RPM WoW! 

super estable. 

 

MUCHAS GRACIAS A TODAS LAS PERSONAS QUE PARTICIPARON EN LA SOLUCION DE ESTE PROBLEMA.

What module are you talking about? The electronic ignition?

-----------------------------

De cual módulo estás hablando? El de ignición electrónico?

 

if brother, the same module.

but not if it is my own perception but feel the slightly slower car in the output .

******************************************************

si hermano, ese mismo modulo.

aunque no se si es percepcion mia pero siento el carro un poco mas lento en la salida.

Adjust the ignition advance (timing) correctly by rotating the distributor.

This is how you adjust the ignition timing using a vacuum gauge.

 

1. Connect a vacuum gauge to a vacuum source directly on the intake manifold.

 

2. Loosen the bolt / nut securing the distributor so you can turn the distributor to adjust the timing.

 3. Start the engine, let it warm up to normal operating temperature, and stabilize at normal hot idle. Using the idle speed screw, set the idle speed as low as possible without stalling the motor. Disconnect the distributor vacuum advance and plug the line.

 4. Keep in mind when adjusting the timing, you have to turn the distributor clockwise to retard (spark later) and counter-clockwise to advance (spark sooner).

 5. While watching the vacuum gauge, slowly turn the distributor counter-clockwise and look for a maximum reading on the gauge. The reading will drop off if you advance too far, so turn the distributor clockwise to go back to the peak reading on your gauge.

 6. Once you have established the peak reading, turn distributor clockwise to reduce the reading by about 1 inch to reduce ping. You may need to reduce the reading by 1.5-2 inches total, or even more, depending on the fuel available in your local area. Let your engine's performance guide you. Easy engine start and good power is what you are looking for.

Edited 29 March, 201610 yr by RicardoM

 greetings

 

RicardoM

brother did the process you provided me to advance the dealer.

1) Now the car feels much stronger start well just pulling the clutch.
 

2) when you say disconnect the hose from the vacuum of distibuidor, says says if you put some cap on the hose while I adjust the dealer or do not get anything, also note that while it is idling the manifold portion has nothing vacuum but when I sped up if. It is normal?

 

3) my tach needle is not fixed in a single number if not moving fast between 20 -21 inHg inHg or 21 to 22, leave the distributor in the first measure 20-21
 

many thanks brother

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Saludos

 ricardom

brother hice el proceso que me indicaste para el avance del distribuidor.

1) ahora el carro se siente mucho  mas fuerte arranca bien solo sacando el embrague.

2) cuando dices desconectar la manguera del vacio del distibuidor,  no dice dice si le coloco algun tapon a esa manguera mientras ajusto el distribuidor o no le pongo nada , tambien note que mientras esta al ralenti por la parte de distribuidor no tiene nada de vacio pero cuando acelero si. es normal?

 

3) mi aguja del vacuometro no se queda fija en un solo numero si no que se mueve rapido entre 20 -21 inhg o 21-22 inhg, deje el distribuidor en la primera medida 20-21



hermano  muchisimas gracias

Edited 30 March, 201610 yr by Pollito

1) Well done!

2) Yes, plug the vacuum hose. Yes, it is normal, the vacuum is present only on rapid acceleration.

3) Can you make a video showing the movement of the needle?

================

1) ¡Muy bien!

2) Sí, coloque un tapón en la manguera. Sí, es normal, el vacío está presente sólo durante una rápida aceleración.

3) Puedes grabar un video que muestra el movimiento de la aguja del vacuometro?