Hi All

I finally got the actuator replaced and the VRS is running much better with no limp mode.

Now though, it is not a smooth acceleration but a wee bit of fluctuation up to about 2500 rpm then it just takes off as if a switch has been flicked.

Checked the turbo vane lever when the actuator was off and it had free movement, no stickiness at all.

Any ideas on what needs done to get back to a smooth acceleration??

Cheers

Dave

Was it set correctly using diag equipment or just fitted via guess work?

Set the actuator correctly. It's vital it is set with a mitivac and VCDS.

It was set with the same position as the old one.

Is it easy to get it adjusted?

Does it make a difference to the settings if it is remapped?

It needs setting to the ecu electronically with diag equipment and a vacuum application tool.

It needs setting to the ecu electronically with diag equipment and a vacuum application tool.

What are the settings and is there a difference if remapped?

Remapping makes no difference.

Measure value block 120 > set the value to 0.0v with no vacuum applied > apply vacuum until the MVB reads 0.760v then lock off the nut on the actuator > erase faults and road test.

Remapping makes no difference.

Measure value block 120 > set the value to 0.0v with no vacuum applied > apply vacuum until the MVB reads 0.760v then lock off the nut on the actuator > erase faults and road test.

Thanks for that. I don't have vcds. Will a local tuning company be able to do it or will it have to be a dealer?

I had major trouble just getting the actuator off, even the laser tools socket for doing it was too short. Not sure I would be able to get in to adjust it with it bolted to the turbo.

Anyone with VCDS could assist you buddy

Still not sure I would be able to get in to adjust it. Can't believe how tight it is. It took days to get the actuator off and my mate eventually managed it with a 65mm socket he had.

I would even consider purchasing vcds if I thought I could get in to adjust it.

Is there an easier method or better tool to do it?

The 10mm socket with the split up the side is all I use. Pull a vacuum on the actuator until the value is reached and lock the rod off.

The 10mm socket with the split up the side is all I use. Pull a vacuum on the actuator until the value is reached and lock the rod off.

Sorry, just trying to get my head round this. In posts and videos I saw it was the top nut on the new unit that you were to position in exactly the same place as on the old unit. That was done before the actuator was put back on.

From what you describe, the adjustment is made by the bottom nut then locked it position by the top nut. Does the lever for the vanes that the rod goes through need to be in a set position so that the adjustment is produced by the threaded rod moving then being locked in position relative to the lever?

Just called the dealer for a price to set the actuator.

They won't do it as I never bought the part from them !!!

Did you take your air intake pipe off? Makes it a bit easier to get to the adjuster, just don't drop anything into your turbo!

Did you take your air intake pipe off? Makes it a bit easier to get to the adjuster, just don't drop anything into your turbo!

Yes the air pipe and other bits and bobs.

So do I ajust with the bottom nut then lock with the top?

Skoda dealer won't do the actuator adjustment because they didn't supply and fit the part.

Audi won't do it as they only work on Audi's.

VW will do it for £145.

Spoke to local rolling road tuning place - they will take £40 per hour and said it shouldn't take more than an hour.

Hopefully get it in next week to get it adjusted.

Still considering getting VCDS though as I will be keeping the VRS until it dies and probably get another Skoda when I get rid of my van.

What version of VCDS do I need? The 16 pin adapter?

Edited 27 August, 20169 yr by FatblokeVRS

It makes no difference if you adjust it with the top nut or the bottom nut (other than its easier to do it from the bottom). They important thing is the ECU must see the correct value in order for the regulation to work correctly.

You need to check MBV 120 is reading 0.760mv with the correct vacuum applied. And 1/8th of a turn on the rod makes a difference.