Hi there hope someone can help before I'll start spending money.

 

Here we go again my 2005 Octy developed rather hot rear wheel calipers and disks on the way to work, the only reason why I have noticed it was the burning rubber smell coming from the near side rear wheel. The passenger rear side is also very hot just barely touchable (calipers not the disks). Now I know my rear wheel bearings are probably on their way out as they do make that wowing sound throughout my journeys. I have jacked up the smelly near side and checked the hand brake cable and it comes to a complete halt at the end position so my only thought is the wheel bearings now. 

 

Had my rear disks and pads done last year so leaving that option out for the time being. Car has also done 143k miles and I assume the rear wheel bearings have never been done.

 

Can anyone else think of anything?

 

Have also checked the fronts and they are warm compare to the rears.

Edited 1 September, 20169 yr by arthurd123

I would say rear brakes binding from either hand brake cable not releasing or build up of dirt preventing the caliper from returning. Have you jacked the car up to check for binding or play in the bearings?

Have jacked up the rear near side and couldn't really feel any play in the wheel bearing but there is a whining noise coming from rear of the car whilst driving. Also checked the handbrake cable and when the handbrake is off the lever on the wheel hub returns to it's rest position fully.

 

Have not used the car for few days as well until today but this couldn't be reason right? 

Edited 1 September, 20169 yr by arthurd123

Have jacked up the rear near side and couldn't really feel any play in the wheel bearing but there is a whining noise coming from rear of the car whilst driving. Also checked the handbrake cable and when the handbrake is off the lever on the wheel hub returns to it's rest position fully.

 

Have not used the car for few days as well until today but this couldn't be reason right? 

 so did the wheel spin freely?

 

 The passenger rear side is also very hot just barely touchable (calipers not the disks).

The discs are not getting hot then???????????

 so did the wheel spin freely?

Yes it did spin freely....

Edited 1 September, 20169 yr by arthurd123

The discs are not getting hot then???????????

I wasn't going to touch the disks mate they were probably hotter I spat on them and it sizzled

You say you have had the disks & pads replaced but what about the calipers? It could be a sticky piston in the caliper.

Calipers were not replaced didn't know you have to replace those at the same time.

 

This morning same thing but now it's definitely rear near side disk got very hot water sizzling away the other side if fine. My only thought would be that when the car is parked over night and handbrake is left on the piston is not moving back as it should be when I take off the handbrake before driving. My local mechanic looked at it yesterday couldn't find any issues so I'm really puzzled here.

Calipers were not replaced didn't know you have to replace those at the same time.

 

This morning same thing but now it's definitely rear near side disk got very hot water sizzling away the other side if fine. My only thought would be that when the car is parked over night and handbrake is left on the piston is not moving back as it should be when I take off the handbrake before driving. My local mechanic looked at it yesterday couldn't find any issues so I'm really puzzled here.

Leave the car overnight with the handbrake on and in the morning, jack the car up and see if the brakes are binding. 

 

With the amount of heat that you say is getting into the brakes and caliper I don't think it can be the wheel bearing unless its really really shot

I wasn't going to touch the disks mate they were probably hotter I spat on them and it sizzled

Makes sense!

 

Had a few issues with mine of late. I have had to replace one rear caliper previously and one front recently.

I have had problems with the front slide pins on the off side after servicing them myself, although I used spray copper grease which uses a solvent - so not good for the rubbers.

This has just been rectified with normal copper grease so hopefully ok now although some say you should use a specific grease, and grease was supplied with the nsf caliper of which I fitted myself.

 

Anyway, see if the car rolls when you pull up at the lights (or the like) after a few miles of driving. Slow right down and put it into neutral.

It should roll quite freely especially with a diesel and if you are slightly downhill.

 

The likelihood is, it is the piston sticking in the caliper. (as our friendly TMNT 'mikey' says, Lol).

 

The front on mine was noticed whilst driving but the rear issue was not noticed until mot time.

Edited 2 September, 20169 yr by Tilt

Also, if you plan on keeping the car, and you can do these yourself, I would recommend purchasing the tools if you do not have them already.

 

They will 'pay for themselves', as they say, probably the very next job you do if you purchase wisely.

 

Good luck.

I had this problem with all 4 corners. It was down to corrosion and crud build up on the pad backing plates and carriers where they slide over each other.

Lack of any brake maintenance whatsoever by the dealer despite paying top whack for skoda servicing is the reason.

The solution is a complete stripdown, thoroughly clean all parts. A wirebrush, stiff toothbrush, a selection of metal files, plenty of brakecleaner and wipes are required. The important bit is to clean and file off the corrosion off the carrier sliding surface (the bits the pads slide over, not the slide pins, just clean them). Be patient and take time to clean thoroughly and file off all corrosion otherwise the problem will return.

The pad backing plates should be filed on the sliding edges so that when the pads and calipers are refitted there should be a little slop between pad and carrier, some pads are manufactured with dimensions that are just too tight, hence why they bind on the carrier with just a bit of crud.

USE ONLY METALLIC FREE BRAKE GREASE (CERATEC), AS COPPER SLIP WILL ONLY CORRODE THE CARRIERS AND COLLECT AND BUILD UP DUST AND CRUD. Dust does not stick to ceratec.

Lubricate the sliding pins and the sliding edges on the carriers. Use a minimal amount though.

After assembling, before pumping the pads out, check the caliper slides freely and easily back and forth in the carrier.

Edited 2 September, 20169 yr by xman

I had a similar problem with my rears, and I could literally feel the heat (as well as smell it) by just stepping close to the wheels. Wwat my mechanic did sounded very much like what xman describes, and it's also worked for me.

Mine has been doing this too but I could hear them binding mainly when I had cruise control on and it was gently applying the brakes. After it disengaged the brakes it would squeal unless I jabbed the brakes.

Xman's solution worked on my osf, too.

 

Not the nsf though, still had issues after carrying this thorough clean / file job out so had to replace and new caliper only cost me about £35 quid more than a piston kit, including £25 refund for my old one, and 30% ECP's discount.

 

I am going to invest in some Ceratec at around £3.25 off ebay motor shop, as copper grease does dry out.

Ecp and gsf stock ceratec and its cheap! One tube will last you years.

http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Skoda_Octavia_1.2_2012/p/car-accessories/car-maintenance-accessories/maintenance-fluids-and-greases/grease/?526770250&0&cc5_150

http://m.gsfcarparts.com/981aa0560

Edited 3 September, 20169 yr by xman

So on Saturday morning I released the handbrake jacked the car up and here we go the near side wheel was hardly moving when I tried to spin it around as a precaution i dropped the car down and checked the other side this wheel was mowing freely without any issues. It was time to take the near side wheel off and inspect the caliper with a bit more detail, especially the hand brake cable too. The handbrake leaver was fully back so it couldn't have been the cable, thankfully I went down to GFS and picked up a near side reconditioned caliper on friday lunchtime, with their weekend discount 42% and a surcharge coming back my way I will end up paying around £70 for which is not the end of the world I suppose.

 

Replaced the caliper made sure the handbrake leaver sits fully at the stop position it was time to bleed them all. No more hot rear near side wheel. Took a bit of time but hey I work in IT so there you.

 

Thanks for all your help guys especially SuperbTWM for giving me the tip with the handbrake.

 

Some really good stuff here as always!

 

Just to add have tried my winding tool on the old caliper before I took it off forget about it sized up completely.