Help: Changing VRS brakes

[Torchythomas]

I have a 2014 Octavia VRS TDI, the one with the 340mm front brakes. I need new discs and pads all round and have bought the discs and pads needed. I plan to fit them myself as Skoda want over £500, but as all of the parts only cost me £230, I'll do them myself from home.

 

I have two questions though:

 

• Do the pistons on these calipers push in, or screw in?

• What do I have to do to disengage the hand brake to change the rear brakes? I was told a special tool was needed. I've only ever changed rear pads on cars that had drums inside the discs, so the handbrake wasn't an issue. But as the handbrake operates the calipers, what would I need to do?

 

Many thanks

[M12MKD]

This might help.

https://youtu.be/Q5BKPZ6jRho

[Black_Sheep]

Push in on front pistons, wind in on rears. Normally used a spanner and a g-clamp, to push in fronts and a small (7mm) spanner handle to wind in rears; however, they were so stiff on VRS I had to buy a winding tool for the rears. Also spline bolts that hold on the rear calliper are really stiff, with little room - finally managed to get mine off, but next time would definitely use an extension bar.

[Torchythomas]

Push in on front pistons, wind in on rears. Normally used a spanner and a g-clamp, to push in fronts and a small (7mm) spanner handle to wind in rears; however, they were so stiff on VRS I had to buy a winding tool for the rears. Also spline bolts that hold on the rear calliper are really stiff, with little room - finally managed to get mine off, but next time would definitely use an extension bar.

That's great, thanks for the help. How would you go about winding them in with a spanner handle? I haven't seen the piston in person so I'm trying to picture how you would go about it?

 

Also, is there anything I should be aware of when it comes to the handbrake? Do I need to somehow disconnect/disengage it, or is it literally exactly the same as the fronts, but to just wind in the pistons instead of pushing?

 

Apologies for the amount of questions!

Edited 7 October, 2016 by Torchythomas

[Black_Sheep]

On the rear pistons, there are two holes for the winding tool on the face, and around the outer edge there is a castellated section with two gaps on opposing sides - on most cars you can push the shaft of the spanner against the face of the piston into the two slots in the castellated section and wind it in an anti-clockwise direction - however, as stated mine were too stiff to turn in this manner and had to buy the correct tool for the job. In terms of the handbrake, just make sure that it is off, with the front wheels chocked / in gear (no need to disconnect) - depends on how much free play in the handbrake if you need to adjust this too - I replaced the rear discs / pads because they were corroded rather than worn, hence not having to adjust handbrake.

Only other thing is that the callipers (fronts) are very heavy - I used a piece of welding rod bent into an 's' shaped hook to take the weight of the calliper (attached other end over the top of the shock) to stop the brake hoses being stressed.

Edited 7 October, 2016 by Black_Sheep

[HeavyMetalRich]

You would be advised to buy the winding tool, it'll make life a bit easier. if you do the fronts first, be sure to pump the brake pedal until you get your resistance back. This will reduce the resistance you'll encounter at the rears a little.

 

Yeah you don't need to disconnect the handbrake cables at all.

 

If you still find the piston very stiff to start turning, with the winding tool still in place but not tight against the piston, try a pump of the brake pedal again to loosen it.

[Torchythomas]

Perfect, that's all the information I needed. Thanks so much for the help!

[banksie]

You'll need this for the rears

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00LFTMZF8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And this

http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/socket-sets/halfords-advanced-7-piece-spline-bit-socket-rail-1-2

Don't skimp on the quality of the spline socket as the bolts are difficult to get to and you can't afford to round them. There is enough room to get a 1/2 " socket handle in and use a rubber mallet to hit it to loosen the nut. My rear calliper bolts had never had any grease/locking compound on them from the factory.

I never touched the hand brake at all.