External Light with PIR issues?

[nokiauk]

I've an external light with PIR mounted on the side of my house to illuminate the walkway between mine and neibours house, width between walls is approx 1.5-2m. Walls of both houses are rendered with white chips.

Recently had to change the bulb and opted for a cool white LED replacement 9w (60w equivalent), previous bulb was 60w but non led and was yellow light.

Since fitting the new bulb the light turns on again as soon as it goes out, light has adjustable sensitivity which I've turned right down.

Although the light does go out for about 1-2 seconds before coming on again could the whiter light shining on the white rendered wall opposite actually be giving a false reading to the PIR and triggering it again?

[Guest]

I may be wrong with this but if the whiteness of the bulb was triggering the pir sensor, it would stay on continuously ;the pir sensor wouldn't be able to detect the light hitting the wall once it had switched off.

The fact it is staying off for a few seconds would indicate there is something else triggering it; central heating vent, strong wind. Both of these cause my lights to activate. During strong winds, several of my lights will trigger exactly like your one is doing; activating, then going off for a few seconds, then back on again.

[GentleGiant]

LED lights produce a lot of heat at the BACK END of the bulb, it might be this heat is triggering the PIR; with a normal bulb, the heat is at the front and directed away from the sensor.

[CWARD]

Could just be the age of the PIR as they don't last forever and changing the bulb may have disturbed it enough to fail. Mine had recently started to fail within a few months of each other after much messing about trying to adjust them only to find them switching on randomly then not going off again I decided to to change them.

[LordRaiden84]

Hi

I will try to narrow this down for you from what you've described:

1. If you have the means of access depending the height it's installed, tilt the fitting downwards so it's not pointing towards the render and set the time to minimum and lux to max.

2. Turn light off at mains/switch/spur how ever fed and wait approx a minute. Turn back on and observe light (don't do a walk test). See if it goes from initial power on to night mode.

3. If light does on/off scenario as said you possibly have a conflict with new LED lamp and fitting. If not, could be the reflection of render but I doubt it and honestly, have never heard of such a thing.

4. To further eliminate render possibility after tilting fitting downwards, fit an original spec lamp (one you had previous). This way you can prove if it is the bulb or the fitting. Bear in mind, the manufacturers guidlines will advise the 'recommended' lamp type to use. This should be followed but lets continue.

5. If no problems with original lamp and you want LED, get a full LED light with inbuilt lamp. If your not bothered and prepared to lose the cost of the LED lamp, go back to normal.

6. Try these steps so you don't have to pay an Electrician (like me ha ha) to fault find. Ball ache I know but do you want a new fitting ect ect? You decide.

Post back your findings. Hope you sort it matey.

Edited 19 October, 2016 by LordRaiden84

[LordRaiden84]

^Forgot to say, these steps will also prove if the inbuilt PIR sensor is faulty. I bet it will work with a normal lamp

[nokiauk]

Thanks for all the replies guys and a quick update. The lamp is of the design attached, unfortunately the PIR cannot be adjusted at all and points straight forward, though sensor does curve at the edges to catch the peripheral areas. I've ruled out LED heat as another lamp which is similar to the front of the property works fine with same type of bulb.

This evening I taped up the centre section of the PIR, the range is reduced to minimum and time set to about 30 seconds duration.

The light is now almost behaving correctly in that it goes out after 30 seconds and doesn't immediately re-illuminate, the PIR only senses movement walking from the front of the house to the back and not the reverse, will play with the tape/sensitivity a bit.

So it does look like the issue was something to do with the straight on part of the sensor?.