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Hi new vrs owner help and shopping list please


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Vacuum/Boost leaks are very common on VAG 1.8T's mainly caused by split pipes. Remapping will often expose any problems there.

So have a good listen for hissing in the engine bay with the engine at idle. Replacing all the small braided vacuum pipes around the inlet manifold is always worth doing as they do eventually fail. There's a pipe under the inlet manifold commonly referred to as the S pipe, which is also notorious for splitting, as is the Y pipe by the rocker cover.

 

Things I have always done on my VAG 1.8T's.

Check with main dealer to see if your coil packs are covered by the VAG coil pack replacement campaign, if they are they'll be replaced free of charge.

Check to see if you have the old black Coolant Temp Sensor fitted, if you have replace it with a genuine VAG green CTS.

Clean the MAF sensor with Isopropal.

Remove & clean the Throttle body with carb cleaner,

Uprating the RARB (rear anti roll bar) will improve handling considerably.

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When was the cambelt last changed? When getting the cambelt changed, make sure they do the water pump as well, since the realistic life of a water pump is about 1.5 that of the cambelt so it avoids paying twice for the cambelt work.

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Thanks for replies I have changed the temp sensor to a green one shipped from Germany genuine vag part ... can't hear no hissing but plugged car into diagnostic and have a error on N249 ???????? I have heard removing these and the sai but is there any garages around that will do this as not that confident in ripping stuff out lol I'm thinking if I get all stuff done ready for a stage 2 then I don't have to go back after having stage 1

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You can leave it; remember I'm starting with a complete unknown vehicle and history file, so I was saying there's no point in not changing the water pump with the cambelt, but if you get overheating about 24_000 miles after a cambelt change then not having had the water pump changed with the belt is the likely reason for the overheating.

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