KenONeill

Fault codes in the A/C module.

Yes, or you can replace them with proper Terry Jubilee clips.

It's dead common. The "best solution" with asymmetric but non-directional tyres is to swap all 4 diagonally (Front left with rear right and front right with rear left). Someone with a Hunter rig may help with any geometry issues but a lot of the problem is wear caused by braking and no acceleration forces on the rear axle. Also, as above the issue also occurs with hatchbacks (and indeed mks 1, 2 and 4 as well as mk3 cars).

As I'm reading this you need a different garage. One that will do a UV dye check rather than guessing.

I'm pretty much dead certain that JR is correct about it being the immobiliser. More wallet pain here I'm afraid.

That is generally but not always true. You may have caught the stem seal failure at an early stage. It requires more investigation than I can do in text. Go to a good local garage or VAG specialist, not a Skoda main stealer.

These days it seems likely true.

Are you sure it's cruise control and not a GPS assisted speed limiter?

also @Martyn91 True this, based on knowing private hire (and taxi using private car) drivers well enough to know that their expectations were 2 or 3 years battery life for Octavia and Superb 3s,

The second point only actually applies if the last registered keeper was (or at least appears to be) a private individual.

Find a decent fast fit place, and ask them to do a "deep load test" on the battery. That'll be free as long as you buy a new on from them if needed, and come in under £200 coded in.

Don't get the battery from a Skoda main stealer then!!

And, indeed, where the park pawl has slipped and the car has rolled.

Check the battery cable connections are sound, starting at the battery end, then earthing points, then solenoid and starter motor.

Ok, you want to do a minimum of work to the ride height in this case; think tarmac rally suspension rather than your gravel idea. Engine/transmission wise, if you can afford it, Felicia "kit car" spec engine, 1.6l Group A engine, 1.8t and VR6 engines have all been done before.

As @nicknorman says about water pumps, with the note that this appears to apply to certain engine families rather than specific marques and/or models.

Tell her there's a red button covered by the top of the gear lever that fires the passenger ejector seat...

Which, if fitted, was a "make to break" switch, so if you don't have a bonnet switch that circuit shows as permanently "live" meaning bonnet open.

No. My experience of instantaneous mpg and remaining range displays suggests that they could both be wrong.

I think you'd find that those "dive planes" are no stronger than the plastic bumper moulding.

TS: DR.

Try increasing the idle speed by 50 (fifty) revolutions per minute, eg from 700 to 750.

Any branch of Turner Tune or Bosch Diesel.

@Krieger "I suppose it is possible that the overheat incident with the old coolant may have destroyed the head gasket. Is there anything I should do or check before I jump into changing the gasket? And, also, please let me know if my hypothesis of faulty head gasket is correct. - Anything else I can do before/after buying a better coolant temp sensor? - Should I clean/check more parts of the fuel system (regarding the dirty fuel filter)?" 1. That's possible yes. Have a compression test done. I think a dry test will be enough if you suspect HGF and not worn or broken piston rings. 2. Do the compression test first, then think about the CTS. 3. Check the fuel filter in a couple of months and if it contains sh!t, change it again.

Similar thoughts to @Breezy_Pete about a weak or failed glow plug.