Hi all,

My front brakes pads were changed when I picked up the car last year. I've only done 7k on them. All disc are good.

Thought the brakes come on solid if I keep pushing hard - when parked - the pedal will travel slowly further to the bottom. I also pumped them x2 and that brings them more solid. ( they do work please don't think I'd drive otherwise.)

There's also a slight hissing sound when I pump the brakes.

I went to local, small garage, I got the back tyres fitted from - £49 each.  He said the rear brakes pads are coming to an end and he'll change them for £75. He also told me you don't need to bleed car brakes anymore..? 

Having had much help on here - I've oil changed, and fuel filter change, injector clean myself with the advice and other job's which I'm grateful for.  Should I just get on with it myself.  I now have axle stands and the video below looks straightforward enough. ( though the music's annoying...) Seeing the brake pads cos around £25.

I've read some other post on here regarding this and found another video about turning the piston.

Thanks again.

 

   

 

Edited 11 January, 20179 yr by 2goat

Changing brake discs and pads is pretty straight forward if you've got a bit of basic mechanical knowledge and the right tools. The tools can make it more expensive if you're not going to be using them a lot i.e. on other cars especially if when you invest in trolley jacks and axle stands. Otherwise a good garage is your friend.

The benefit of doing it yourself is knowing the job has been done right which includes cleaning the calipers and hubs prior to fitting new parts ensuring trouble free operation for years to come which most garages don't bother to do as it involves more time. The cost savings are just an added benefit.

I would investigate the hissing sound more as you get some noise with any brakes but not usually a hissing sound. Best by checking the hoses to the calipers, leaks around the master cylinder and if all ok then at least change and bleed the brake fluid. 

Thanks for the advice.  I do have the tools to do it and sure I can follow the instruction. Problem is I really don't want to mess with something as important as brakes now I've read your advice.  It's puzzled me why he said the brakes don't need to be bled though..?

That along with checking caliper's and a low hiss when I pump the brakes..

I'll go back to him and inquire further.

Thank you.  

It could be that with the new thicker pads fitted the pistons are retracted and the brake fluid has been pushed back into the system from the calipers which means that you don't have to pump the pedal anymore. Ask the garage if this is what he means.

 

At £75 fitted for the rears I would ask them to do it if you don't have experience. Whilst he's at it ask him to make sure that they clean up the calipers and re-grease the sliding pins.

That's great, thanks. Will do.  They seem good there. And I can watch him do it. 

Edited 11 January, 20179 yr by 2goat

How long has it been since the brake fluid was changed? Might be the ideal time to get the fluid changed whilst you are there. Plus you might be able to haggle a discount with the other work being done.

I find it worth getting the fluid changed yearly at my Indy or I DIY the wife's Fabia as that doesn't have ABS. The benefit of doing it so frequently is that the bleed nipples don't have change to seize and snap off when you do need to change the fluid or bleed. Saves a much bigger bill down the line. My Indy charges me about £25 to do a fluid change.

If you are doing this job yourself,

Buy yourself a brake rewind tool, the chances of you rewinding the pistons without it and without damaging the rubber boot seals are virtually nil. (Been there, done that)

If your discs are badly scored or unevenly worn - very likely as often the inner unseen suface is badly rusted/corroded because the pads/caliper stick - then you will need to change the discs as well. In that case you probably need a breaker bar and the appropriate spline bit to remove the carrier. And a torque wrench to retighten.

Although your model you may be able to remove the disc without removing the carrier (not sure though)

Undo the brake nipple when rewinding the piston to release old contaminated/rusty brake fluid out, otherwise that crap could find its way back to the abs block.

And you'll need 11/13/14mm ring/open ended spanners.

You'll also need to bleed the brakes after you've finished replacing them.

Edited 11 January, 20179 yr by xman

 

Thought the brakes come on solid if I keep pushing hard - when parked - the pedal will travel slowly further to the bottom. I also pumped them x2 and that brings them more solid. ( they do work please don't think I'd drive otherwise.)

There's also a slight hissing sound when I pump the brakes.

 

 

 He also told me you don't need to bleed car brakes anymore..? 

 

 

I would be a bit concerned about the pedal loosing pressure and require pumping. Sounds like two of the higher probability causes are either air in the system or a leaking master cylinder. Either way, it is not great to drive around with.

 

I'm not sure why the garage said that, as others said maybe in the context of changing pads,  you don't "have to bleed" the brakes. Agreed. However, if you mentioned the pedal movement and pedal losing pressure I would expect them to be saying the first thing needed with pads is bleeding to see if the problem extends any further. Edit: and important to attend to pronto.

Edited 11 January, 20179 yr by TheClient

Thank for all your help.  I'm taking it to two other garages tomorrow to see what they say. Not going to say much and just see what comes back.

I did find another video about bleeding the brakes yourself - one person bleed - and again it looks very straightforward. Just make sure the reservoir is kept full.  I'll know better tomorrow when I hear what the different garages say.

Good stuff thanks. 

Thank for all your help.  I'm taking it to two other garages tomorrow to see what they say. Not going to say much and just see what comes back.

I did find another video about bleeding the brakes yourself - one person bleed - and again it looks very straightforward. Just make sure the reservoir is kept full.  I'll know better tomorrow when I hear what the different garages say.

Good stuff thanks. 

Yes, you can bleed yourself. Not hard really. But to do one person, you will need a pressure bleeder, otherwise two person job (one pump and holds pedal, other one releases and closes bleed nipples..

 

I wouldn't boil the ocean for quotes on what should be a fairly modest job, a little bigger if there is a master cylinder to change. Just go with someone you feel you trust, price is reasonable (cheapest not always best). Most of all tell them about the pedal pressure..... Best of luck.  

Thanks for the advice. Will do.  ( Boil the ocean...?  lol... I can use that. ;)  )  

Thanks Mike,

I don't know what some of these people are trying to pull..

The garage who told me car brakes don't have to be bled I won't go back to.

I then went to Kwik Fit and was told they would change the brake fluid for £40.  Another garage said £50 .. Telling me he would use a machine to suck the fluid out and replace it. He said condensation can get into the system. 

Again the first garage - said car brakes don't have to be bled - told me they would change brake shoe's.. 

I've added a picture..  I don't think they need changing.  The brake's work fine but for a slight spongy feeling if I keep pushing them.  

The dealer I got the car from did the cam and water pump and also put new pads on the front only 5k ago.

Surely they would have also bled the brakes when they did this.

Thanks. 

 

I wouldnt use Kwik Fit for any work. Those pads look fine but what are the inside pads like? They do tend to wear a bit quicker on the inside. I would rather pay skoda or vw to change the brake fluid or a decent vw specialist.

OK thanks.  I'm getting tired of some of these garages giving me the run around for what I'm beginning to see clearly is straightforward.

I appreciate the help.  I'm going to a main dealer and simply ask them to get in the car and check for me. 

( Not one of these garages worker's has either got in the car and pushed the brake peddle or looked closely or checked the back.)  :devil: =  :coffee:

Fluid doesn't need to be bled if just doing pad change.

Fluid doesn't need to be bled if doing pad/disc change.

 

Fluid needs to be bled at least every 2 years.

Fluid needs to be bled after caliper/master cylinder removed/replaced or any break in brake lines such as changing flexi hoses etc.

Thanks Nick.