I'm just in the middle of changing the rear pads on my vRS but it is proving very difficult to slide the caliper off the disk due to the ridge around the outside of the disk.

Is there some special trick here or is it just a case of brute force & a big screwdriver to prise the caliper off?

If the ridge is that big that you can't get the pads off, maybe you need new disks as well.

One thing you will need to do it to push the rear piston back in, which without the VAG tool is a real pain, as the piston needs to be turned and pushed at the same time.

Have you removed the cap from the brake fluid reservoir, so the fluid can move back up the pipes when you try and push the piston in. This will also help when you try to free up dome space to remove the pads.

I will be changing the disks as well. I do have the cap off the hydraulics. Not sure how I can apply any pressure to force the piston back in though before I get the caliper off the disk. How does the VAG tool work?

If you dont have a brake tool you are going to struggle and quite probably damage the rear caliper.

Usually a good bit of leverage will get them off.

If i remember rightly, the VAG too engages into the castellations in the rear pistons, to enable them to be wound in easily.

I used to use a screw driver with a square shank to locate into the castellations on the golf rear pistions to turn them.

Lummox is probably your best bet to confirm this....

(I don't know wether you have an Octy or Furby but this is based on the Octy)

Just finished my Octy TDi rear pads on Saturday so here a few tips.

My discs had a lip but the calipers came off with a few gentle taps with the end of a wooden handled hammer.

(Without wishing to offend you) Have you checked you have fully released the handbrake or the caliper ain't going nowhere (yes I forgot myself !!)

You would be better off using a retracting tool (the one I used was made by Laser part no. 1314 costs less than £20 from a motor factors) Heres a link to show you what it looks like http://www.lasertools.co.uk/item.aspx?item=356

The part was not listed as being suitable for Skodas but it worked ok on the Octy TDI.

Its difficult to turn the piston using the old 'screw driver in the slot' technique as you also need to be pushing back on the psiton at the same time as turning it....after skinning my knuckles I decided to get one!!

Keep an eye on the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservior when you are pushing the piston back in I found I also had to syphon about 20cc of brake fluid out of the master cyclinder to prevent it overflowing out of the top of the reservoir. The brake pistons tend to turn in at 1/2 turn intervals (it turns fairly freely then gets stiff until the fluid flows back up the system) I found turning it 1/2 turn and then waiting a few seconds then turning again was much easier than trying to turn it all the way in at once.

hope this helps.

You would be better off using a retracting tool (the one I used was made by Laser part no. 1314 costs less than

The Sealey tool below is described as suitable for the Audi 80, 90 and V8, and the VW Golf and Passat.

http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/s.nl;jsessionid=ac112b791f4378e0f2ad15984940a27ca03835354d74.e3eTaxeKbh0Te34Lah0PbNaLaNv0n6jAmljGr5XDqQLvpAe?sc=9&category=113&it=A&id=7397