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Tools for vac/boost line clamps?

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Can anyone recommend some tools to reach and undo/redo the clamps on the vac/boost lines?  I particular need something that can reach the two top lines on the N75 boost control valve as I'm replacing that soon.

 

Thanks,

I didn't think there were any clamps on the two tubes that attach to the N75 boost control valve, aren't they just push fit?

  • Author
1 minute ago, CWARD said:

I didn't think there were any clamps on the two tubes that attach to the N75 boost control valve, aren't they just push fit?

I was under the impression they're spring band clamps?  I'm also replacing the check valve that's on the top left by the large intake pipe that goes to the turbo.  That has a different one use clamp I believe.

I've just looked at a few videos on change the N75 valve and there appears to a variety of methods of securing the pipe. The Skoda ones just appear to push on, VAG crimped (single ear) clamps and Audi EzyClik :sadsmile:

 

If they have spring clamps or Band Lites then use needle nose or standard pliers. Internal circlip pliers if you can't get the angle to squeeze them together. Fitting is obviously the reverse. 

 

The crimp clamps are designed for one time use so either cut with a Dremmel through the crimp or just lever the end of the band up with a flat screwdriver and it will undo the hooks. These crimp clamps aren't very good at been clamped without the right tool as you can't draw the clamp together evenly without the right tool I would just use normal jubilee clips  

 

edit. should have said aren't

Edited by CWARD

  • Author

The check valve between the PCV and turbo is the crimp clamps, so I'll be able to dremel that off.  The only problem is the other end of the pipe near the turbo; there's no way I'll get a dremel in there ha.  I've no idea what connections the N75 have on mine, so I'll need to check them tonight.

The crimp clamps undo quite easily with a small flat screwdriver under the end of the clamp but doing this you risk breaking any plastic pipes within the hose. If they've gone brittle you could end up with bits of plastic dropping through the hose were you don't want them so I wouldn't recommend this method unless clamped to a metal pipe.  

  • Author
3 minutes ago, CWARD said:

The crimp clamps undo quite easily with a small flat screwdriver under the end of the clamp but doing this you risk breaking any plastic pipes within the hose. If they've gone brittle you could end up with bits of plastic dropping through the hose were you don't want them so I wouldn't recommend this method unless clamped to a metal pipe.  

Well fingers crossed my boost leak is just a split/loose pipe.  I've ordered a new check valve (with pipe) and N75 from TPS.  I'm also receiving my DV+ today so I'll hope to get under the car tonight or tomorrow to investigate. 

 

Me being me, I've got it in my head my wastegate is loose/faulty, as I'm aware it has been known to go.  New turbo in that case :(  Hopefully just worrying over nothing.  I think I can hear a whistling air leak, and my stats/curves 100% point to a boost leak somewhere so I'm hoping and praying it's just a split somewhere...

Edited by planehazza

Diverter Valve can be a bit awkward to get at to remove the bolts. If you haven't invested in a flexible screwdriver they are godsend in these types of jobs. 

  • Author
48 minutes ago, CWARD said:

Diverter Valve can be a bit awkward to get at to remove the bolts. If you haven't invested in a flexible screwdriver they are godsend in these types of jobs. 

 

I've got it down to a T now ha.  Had it off twice now and I've learned precisely where to lie under the car, and where to get arms in.  The worst part is the connector, but mine was leaking oil, so fitting the new DV+ should be easy.

 

I really want a better jack to raise the car higher. 30cm isn't enough, and for some reason since lowering it the jack barely opens enough to get the car onto the lowest setting of the axle stands.  Any recommendations on a non crazy trolley jack whilst I'm here? :)

  • Author

Cheers mate.  I've got the pipe and valve, but the crimp clamp I need to remove is on the charge side of the turbo so, like the N75, it's going to be a bitch to get off:

 

turbo.thumb.jpg.47f4af612347b7fc85e3d368a9ff0516.jpg

 

I think I might try to get these off and replace them with spring clamps...

You can also put a flat blade screwdriver into the crimped part of the clamp and rotate it to open it up, as it opens wider use a bigger screwdriver and repeat until you can slide the pipe off . Replace with a stainless steel jubilee clip  

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