Noticed some oil around my EGR when I first bought the car a month ago - cleaned it all off and now 2 maybe 3 weeks later possibly a tad more it's all oily again. Also noticed on the boost pipe that runs down the side of the radiator is also oily. My car has recently been mapped, seems to smoke around 3/4K rpm however no smoke lower down in the rev range and as the car comes on boost there is a slight whooooosh sound around 2k RPM. More noticeable in higher gears e.g 6th on motorways etc, the car feels possibly down on power however this could be because I'm used to the extra power of the remap. Here's the photos I have taken hopefully someone can clear up for me 

 

 

oil is more saturated down rear of pipe pipe however I can't get the phone down there to take a photo!  

 

Edited 4 August, 20178 yr by JaamesVRS

Car sounds a lot raspier on boost too opposed to deep like it did. Like a screamer type sound 

This is normal / very common and nothing that i would worry about ,but yes in effect they are small boost leaks/very small boost leaks.

OkY thankyou I'm yet to look into the other boost pipes as there is certainly a whooshing sound on boost and the car sounds different on boost, a lot more "airey" than before and there's no real soot until about 3k rpm then there's a dust cloud left behind the car lol. Is there a way I can get a check for boost leaks or simply have a visual inspection? 

Bump.

 

went in my mates VRS last night and his sounds completely different to mine, as mine comes on boost can hear a whoosh/whistle type sound which stays all the way through boosting. At around 3.5k load of smut being left behind, he also has an open filter and his is quieter on boost. 

This isn't my car but sounds exactly the same? 

 

 

Either you do have a boost leak or your turbo impeller is wearing out, check the turbo by removing the TIP and taking a look and giving it a pull with your fingers, if it looks worn and has noticeable endfloat then it's had it.

Okay mate thanks I'll check it out. What's the TIP sorry? And the easiest way to check? Point of access etc. So if the shaft has any movement its game over?

TIP is turbo inlet pipe, easiest way to check is to use your mobile to take pictures of the impeller and grip the nut with your fingers and push/pull the impeller.

Lovely thanks mate - I'll make sure ill have a Butchers then. Hopefully it's a boost leak opposed to turbo!! Much cheaper than the turbo replacement. I'm guessing there should be no movement at all? Is any movement considered safe? Or if there's any place is it goosed? 

You should feel a tiny bit of movement in and out, if all's good then you need to find the boost leak which is trickier but much cheaper as you say.

Lovely thankyou I'll have a butchers. I suppose biting the bullet and buying the airtec kit will fix any boost leaks

 

EDIT: is it worth fixing the boost leak or is not really possible to fix without replacement?

Edited 20 August, 20178 yr by JaamesVRS

Depends, you can usually fix them by firing in some self-tappers if the seal is intact.

Where abouts do you screw them in I can't work it out; also could I go online and order 90 deg silicone, 45 def stainless pipe and 45 deg silicone to intercooler and fix the leak that way? What OD/ID silicone and solid pipe will I need? If that's a way to fix it 

Think I may of found my boost leak  now how to fix it? 

 

 

Bump? Any ideas?

Take it to someone who has a clue, seriously, it should be obvious what's broken, order a replacement part from Skoda and just fit it.

 

We cannot do basic mechanical fitting via the internet, you'll have to get your hands dirty, take it to bits or take it to someone who can.

I know what I'm doing I've just never owned a boosted car before and not sure what clarifys as okay passable or shot. What's the point having a forum if your gonna throw stuff like that into the mix? Why do we all fix our own cars in the first place? To save money. In all honesty if we all had money majority of us wouldn't be part of Briskoda let's be honest. The new pipe from Skoda is around 100 notes + vodka.. where as I can get the full kit for around 30 quid using silicone and stainless piping which will eliminate any other issues or weak components. All I'm asking is what diameter the silicone needs to be what stainless I need and what type of pipe I need. I've worked it out as 90 degree from EGR (EGR Will be deleted) 70 degree stainless and 45 degree silicone with the bayonet fitting into the cooler. But what length stainless pipe will I need as I'm sure people have already done this before and will know opposed to guess work 

 

in in terms of asking how to fix it I didn't want to screw into the boost pipes as there is possible swarf that could enter boost pipes so I put a cable tie on top and bottom boost pipe then various ties to pull the pipes together until I order all the other pipes 

Edited 23 August, 20178 yr by JaamesVRS

13 minutes ago, JaamesVRS said:

in in terms of asking how to fix it I didn't want to screw into the boost pipes as there is possible swarf that could enter boost pipes so I put a cable tie on top and bottom boost pipe then various ties to pull the pipes together until I order all the other pipes 

 

Dude, there are literally dozens of members here who've used the self-tapper trick and no-one's ever had a problem, which is why I suggested it.

 

You're being too precious and you're overthinking this. It's a car, not a person, just get stuck into it, you only need small pilot holes for self-tappers and swarf comes OUT of the hole via the drill bit flutes, in any event an engine will happily munch tiny aluminium or plastic fragments without even belching.

 

In case you hadn't guessed by my post count, I have rather a lot of experience fixing stuff, and not just Fabias either.

See I was going to do the self tapper trick but saw quite a few mentioning about swarf; if it's not a problem then I'll go ahead and do it as will work better then the ties as under boost the ties will obviously have some sort of give. 

 

I simply didnt want to cause further issues issues which will hit the pocket harder than the racecar has been recently (too much kerb at Brands tore my a048 to shreds and an oil breather letting go under the bay completely under sealing the car so to speak and contaminating a brand new helix) just didn't want to dig myself a deeper hole financially by taking the turbo out on the daily. Always had N/A never had any experience with boost. Built the racecar and various motorbikes through knowledge of forums and eventually will get the same knowledge with fabias 

Ok, the thing is that by definition a boost pipe is between the turbo and the engine which is why it's under boost pressure, this means it's downstream from the the turbo and any little fragments will get blown straight through the engine by that boost pressure, they can't sprout wings and fly upstream back to the turbo and damage it so it isn't a problem. I've drilled, tapped and helicoiled spark plug threads in an alloy head without removing the head with no ill effects, only hard materials can actually damage an engine.

That's fair enough then - I'll give the self tapper method a go until I buy either the airtec system or some home made boost pipes. Pointless having a remapped fabia when your loosing boost! 

 

thanks for your help sepulchrave

Just pointed a torch down to the intercooler and gave the boost pipes a wiggle seems the pipe that had the original boost leak is also leaking at the intercooler side! I'm guessing this is a bumper off jobby?