Hi guys im new to this site and have read a few things just i have same problem the car with the key on the dashboard flashes and car won't start and its been on laptop it says coil reader signal  and key signal low so can i just put a new reader on then will it start or would i have to put on a new ignition barrel with coil reader and with the key it comes with just sick when im out shopping and car wont start many thanks for your help

 

David

It's possible the wiring has broken down and failed, was a common'ish fault a while back and a repair kit was available (or made by Techie)

 

 

Thanks could i just put a new ignition barrel with the black coil reader and with the key would this fix the problem or would i need to try find this techie or something 

 

Pics have gone all photobucket but the info is there.

You may need to reflow the solder joints where the connector plugs into the instrument PCB, it's simple to do and usually fixes it.

11 hours ago, vindaloo said:

 

Pics have gone all photobucket but the info is there.

Hi i can't get to see the pics

10 hours ago, sepulchrave said:

You may need to reflow the solder joints where the connector plugs into the instrument PCB, it's simple to do and usually fixes it.

Hi where abouts is this as i can't see the pictures people are on about also if i take the clock cluster out to solder the immobiliser joints would i need to have the car coded again or just put the clocks back together cheers

2 hours ago, Bigdav said:

Hi where abouts is this as i can't see the pictures people are on about also if i take the clock cluster out to solder the immobiliser joints would i need to have the car coded again or just put the clocks back together cheers

 

No need for recoding, just put it all back together. It'll either be fixed or the same as before, so you've nothing to lose.

Point of interest .Very Techy one- does instrument panel contain any electronics. I'm thinking about stray leakage from the common or garden soldering iron as opposed to a upmarket one designed for electronics work, to prevent damage to electronics/PCB from leakage/non earthed tip/ NON TEMP CONTROLLED BIT.. If so ,cheapest option might be a gas one.

If you suspect it is the dash and don't have the skills or knowledge I can sort that sending back and farward via post but it is easily sorted.

On 24/08/2017 at 17:20, hutchysrs50 said:

If you suspect it is the dash and don't have the skills or knowledge I can sort that sending back and farward via post but it is easily sorted.

Hi where should i start 1st also i have another coil reader to try but don't want to damage anything then i will be stuck without a car and people say it could be the wires or the soldering points forthe immobiliser 

The solder joins people are referring to are build into the dash cluster, its fairly easy to remove and take apart, then a visual inspection should show anything.

Photo courtesy of briskoda member Wino. Immobiliser solder joints shown in red circles...

 

 

 

Edited 25 August, 20178 yr by TMB

2 hours ago, TMB said:

Photo courtesy of briskoda member Wino. Immobiliser solder joints shown in red circles...

 

 

 

Cheers thanks looks like i will have to give it a go because hate it when it doesn't start

2 hours ago, hutchysrs50 said:

The solder joins people are referring to are build into the dash cluster, its fairly easy to remove and take apart, then a visual inspection should show anything.

Cheers mate thanks 

48 minutes ago, Bigdav said:

Cheers mate thanks 

 

Just reflow the joints anyway, they might look alright but still not be good enough.