Skip to content

Mk1 VRS hydraulic clutch failure - help

Featured Replies

Good evening all. 

Whilst driving today, my 'clutch' failed - pedal suddenly went straight to the floor when coming to a stop, didn't engage the clutch and engine subsequently  stalled.

Having had a look under the bonnet at the gearbox area where the clutch hydraulic lines go into the gearbox, if you pull the clutch pedal up by hand, and push it back down fluid sprays out of the hydraulic bleeder valve, at the gearbox end (not the bleed nipple itself).

Has anyone experienced this before? - I've had a brief search through the forums, and everything relates towards either master or slave cylinder failure. 

As said, the pedal stays on the floor once depressed and only returns to normal position if you pull it back by hand. My diagnostic suspects perhaps a failed 'o' ring on the end of the bleeder valve unit, hence squirting fluid when pumping the clutch by hand. Therefore fixed by replacing that bleeder valve unit and bleeding the system(??) 

 

Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!

 

Many thanks,

Ben

Which bit is it spraying out of?

 

4567788.png

  • Author

Part 29

OK, that's part number 1J0721468C

 

And there seems to be two different O-rings depending on model...

 

466778.png

Edited by TMB

It could equally be split if it's plastic as I suspect it is.

  • Author
On 27/08/2017 at 19:48, TMB said:

OK, that's part number 1J0721468C

 

And there seems to be two different O-rings depending on model...

 

466778.png

Thanks very much! All sorted now, fortunately was a case of buying a new "bleeder assembly" (1J0721468C) (£35 from skoda) the 'o' rings unfortunately can't be bought separately, and are integral to either the flexi hydraulic pipe (part 26) or the slave cylinder (part 30). However having spoke to a skoda parts advisor, he said that in his time they've never replaced the seals even when taking a gearbox out. 

Anyway, new bleeder valve bought, fitting was pretty straight forward, case of using pliers to pull out two retaining clips on each end, then sliding the old bleeder assembly off, putting new one on and then bleeding the system. Fortunately could just about do it without removing the battery box, only needed to remove the air intake pipe to the air box for access.

 

Edited by Clarke2744

Glad it's sorted :thumbup:

  • Sponsor

FWIW, the seals can be had (almost) separately. Part number 1K0 798 741 gets you two O-rings and two stepped/conical seals that are an alternative to the O-rings in some variants.

I bought a set from TPS just after Christmas, about a tenner, maybe a shade more.

 

 

 

Slave seals.png

 

From a bit of research, it looks like the chunkier bits are the 1k0721741 part, and the O-rings are the 02f141143a part.

Edited by Wino

Create an account or sign in to comment

Recently Browsing 0

  • No registered users viewing this page.

Important Information

Welcome to BRISKODA. Please note the following important links Terms of Use. We have a comprehensive Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Account

Navigation

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.