Hey folks

I have a superb2 hatchback.

When i open the boot, the boot-lights doesn't go on, and the boot will not close fully. If i wait a while, the light suddenly goes on again, and the boot will close. 

 

I understand that a sensor/switch is failing, but i would like to change it myself.

My question to the allmighty forum is this: Where the heck is that sensor located? 

 

Merry christmas, and thanks

Sounds like the famous wiring problem loads of info on the forum about it look here

18 minutes ago, DEL80Y said:

Sounds like the famous wiring problem loads of info on the forum about it look here

Nah, i don't think that wiring is the problem, because it suddely works, without me touching anything, and when it works, it work until i close and reopen the boot again. Boot or hatchmode make no difference.

 

But thanks for answer

I fully agree with @DEL80Y, this sounds like the infamous breaking wiring problem. I would advise you to look into that.

Hmm... okay, i'll look into that  But i still wonder, what triggers the lights in the boot, which also happen to be the ''boot open'' signal? Where is that switch? I'm just ehm.... curious :P 

The reason i question it is: As i said, the signal suddenly get through, and it doesn't loose that signal again before i close and open the boot again, and it doesn't have a thing to say if i open the full hatch or not... (Which then again does not move the cables along the window physically at all...) I get a feeling of a switch that is worn, or sticky then moves slowly, because i can open the boot, step away from the car, and wait for some seconds, before it suddenly finds out that the boot is open, and the lights go on. 

But i could be wrong but... As an electrician, this make me doubt the torn cable theory a bit you know.

Thanks again  

You could be right and so could they but history supports the broken cables. The cables that break are where they are being flexed and by nature of flexing it can cause a weakening and the cable to fail.

As a sparks you know that a solid drawn cable will not flex much before breaking but a multistrand cable will resist it much more but it will also eventually start to fail and when it does it will make and break occasionally at first but gradually increase that until total failure of that joint. Don't forget everything in that car moves from flexing of the chassis with people getting in and out and opening doors to the metal moving with temperature changes.

The above is not meant to be patronising it is simply one sparks to another.

Sorry but I do not know where that joint is.

 

If like the Octavia the microswitch that tells the car that the boot is open is built into the lock mechanism, the part located in the boot lid.

 

The microswitch can be accessed by removing and stripping down the lock mechanism but most people just swap the lock for a new one.

Thanks guys Will strip down the hatch tomorrow Will post results!

Soooo... Just got home from the workshop! I opened up the wires as said in the guide, and found several damaged wired, but none of them were broken of. I repaired the ones that were damaged and reassembled. Still the same fault. I played around with the locking mechanism, but no bueno :( The microswitch is inside the assembly, so i cant access it. I am at a loss here :( guess i'll have to contact a local dealer tomorrow and get my hands on a new lock. Oh btw: Is there a way to permamently lock the hatch, so that i always open the full hatch?

Be careful as it is easy to miss a broken wire if the insulation is not obviously damaged.

4 hours ago, Danny 57 said:

Be careful as it is easy to miss a broken wire if the insulation is not obviously damaged.

That would be impossible to locate tho :/ The fact that the cable breaking "factory fault" is not covered by extended warrenty is beyond me! 

This problem bothers me to hell, and is almost impossible to troubleshoot. God damn VAG...

One way to check is. To run your thumb and index finger either side of each wire in turn when they are splayed apart.  If the wire is broken you will also see a slight thinning of the cable at that point.

Good luck.

11 hours ago, Newlando said:

That would be impossible to locate tho :/ The fact that the cable breaking "factory fault" is not covered by extended warrenty is beyond me! 

This problem bothers me to hell, and is almost impossible to troubleshoot. God damn VAG...

Its very easy to troubleshoot with a simple multimeter with audible continuity setting just test each wire in turn before and after where they bend and you will find which one is broken...
Cut wire replace with new wire solder together and heat shrink repair    Job Done

The guide I posted for you above has  got any pics 

Changed the locking mechanism today to a used one i paid 32EUR for... 

 

Short said: Problem fixed!!!

Thanks for answers! And at least i could use the opertunity to fix the wires that were on their way to break, even tho that wasn't the issue this time around

Well done.