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raky

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    UK

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    Skoda Fabia 2007 Petrol Hatchback 1.4 16V FWD I 6Y2 1390cc 74KW 100HP AUB;BBZ:
  • Year
    2007

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  1. Edited *** supplying tested sensor which otherwise is very expensive part and possibly would have costed me fortune if I have would have bought new one from VW as Cheenes Chipo does not work .
  2. Hi Experts , As usual some surprise always near MOT , but I am not giving up since I strongly feel car engine seems solid no point binning it and also why to worry ,fear when one have continued support of Skoda expert Pete @Breezy_Pete , Really appreciate Pete @Breezy_Pete for his continuous support and advising correct parts and even supplying tested sensor which was very expensive and possibly would costed me fortune. All error codes gone once pre cat oxygen sensor replaced and throttle body cleaned (without removing) , lot of gunk found in throttle body, of course steering rack also replaced with new one as well as it was leaking and all 4 new tyres with service. I have also replaced MAP sensor with old MAP sensor (cleaned with isopropyl 99% alchol) removed from my car which was earlier thought to be broken but it was NOT , SKODA car does not like cheap Chinese sensors as ECU expects original parts I think. I have tried to understand the Fuel trims which is very confusing still as values are always different so could not interpret. Planning to change the ECT sensor as almost 2 years back I have changed so it is bit tricky but not difficult coolant flush after 2 years may be also be good for engine. Thanks for reading , hope it helps somebody facing similar issue. Finally happy ending MOT passed error gone. Another year to run . Regrds raky Fuel Trim.pdf
  3. Hi , Thanks for sharing info please, Sorry for bothering you , May I know please ,do u think P1142 is throttle body please ?? I don't have power loss but definitely get at least once EPC + Engine light (Have small leak on Steering rack as well ) in 30 miles driving only on high speed of 70miles roads possibly during change of lane. Suspect throttle body or wheel sensor may be causing issue. I am seeing 3 more codes P1176 P1196. and P1178 but very confident O2 bank1 MAY not be Faulty ... Suspecting vacuums leak or o2 sensor bank2 may be issue , few months back made mechanic to cut open and look for catalytic converter and it was very healthy and even made him clear with air pressure as well. At the moment engine light has came up permanent , I had coolant leak which is not any more after adding leak stop chemical in coolant. My throttle body is cleaned even cleaned few months by spraying EGR cleaner without opening. 17550, P1142. Mass Air Flow Sensors (G70) faulty , Intake Air System faulty/leaking (false Air) , Throttle Pedal faulty ,Throttle Body dirty/faulty Cheers raky
  4. Hi Experts here is update on above very old issue which made to bin the car few times but never gave up, credit goes to very kind hearted Rock star of this group @Breezy_Pete By chance I was travelling to meet friends and Pete was not far where I was visiting , Pete kindly agreed to offer me time and agreed to look my car on sunny weekend , in 3 minutes he found 3 issues in car and to my surprise he found the root cause of all engine loss / EPC light etc which no body was able to identify or they never had expertise. The Pete went logically had data sheet of my car and looked that my fuel-filter which was bought from euro parts ( 2-3 filter changed since 2-3 years) had wrong fuel pressure, since same model had possibly few variants but the fuel filter has same number of inlets/outlets but different pressure regulator values, 3bar or 4 Bar , Pete had list in hand looked everything and when saw the fuel filter he said this could be major issue with my car since it needed 3 BAR as per specification but current fuel filter was 4BAR .. so Pete explained that car computer is getting out of abnormal values because of high pressure fuel and trying to add more oxygen and probably messing up oxygen fuel ratio when it goes high speed .. Thanks @Breezy_Petefor saving planet and stopping my good car going to landfill and pollute the planet , today I have changed the fuel filter and drove the car at speed of 70miles/hour first time without any issue I drove good 20-30 miles. I checked Short Term /long term Fuel trims using dignositics and then were very much under 10% approx 7% I think these values were very dice and changing from -20 to +20 earlier with different rpms . Once again fuel filter pressure is very important for car computer please do check the car manual and never trust any OEM suppliers. Thanks for reading , hope it helps Skodians. Regards raky
  5. Thanks , I think that could be another point , i have noticed MAP sensor connector can move a bit freely even after it is connected , not sure at high speed when car is shaking may be some loose connection for fraction of sec and all mess happens , I could see connector does not looks healthy as mechanic had hard time removing last time when I have changed it. The MAP Sensor looked very clean. I will address this issue before long drive. cheers raky
  6. Thanks All experts I think I found issue , I think culprit so far seems airbox thermostat as mentioned be @Breezy_Pete as per below link , since I have tested airbox thermostat and it was not fully closing after heating with hair dryer which may have correlation as when car used to get warm on motorway EPC+Engine light used to come with power loss and it was consistent even after disconnecting lambada sensor. I had put extra small steel thin strip to push spring so that it closes flap which still does not close but it much better than before , planning to seal with heat resistant tape as part is not available in UK and removing part from spring is difficult as per experience shared by experts. Request all skoda owners having high milage cars to test and airbox thermostat it is very easy to open and test it, especially when cars computer logs error which is no way directly relevant . Will keep you posted . So far driven 70 miles on. motorway at the 70 speed and all was smooth car had no issue. To be extra cautious on my request my mechanic cut the exhaust pipe and shown me that catalytic converter was in very good condition he pumped lot of high pressure air some carbon came out from exhaust which was not as much as thought considering the age of car. He cleaned EGR valve as well again it was not bad , put new spark plugs they were very good as well . I generally use Cat cleaner liquid/ other carbon cleaner products at least 1-2 time in year which may be helping keeping engine clean. Thanks all for support. Hope it helps others. Cheers raky
  7. Much appreciated @sepulchrave thanks for your response, it is great idea , isolated one by one to pin point the root cause of issue , so u mean just disconnect connector from EGR valve it and drive the car as normal, I understand running EGR valve disconnected would not have any impact on driving except engine light which is anyway already ON because of o2 sensor temp fuse removal. Please advice. cheers raky
  8. Hi Experts Thought to update you on above , I have disconnected o2 sensor fuse and observed that there was still same behaviour of EPC+Engine light coming intermittently like before when I drove on motorway for 3-4 miles , rpm was moving up and down automatically without giving any accelerator. Similar behaviour still continuing when applying brake makes rpm goes haywire i.e up or down never comes to normal for a while later after 3-4 minutes all come back normal when car is switched off and switched on ( EPC light vanishes) Also when car is in motion even in neutral gear the some time rpm stay more than 900 rather than 600 which is normal. I have got checked fuel pump and it was very clean no gunk at all on it is filter.. Hence this confirms that o2 sensor is not a faulty or causing this issue for sure, checked the servo pipe and it seems looks healthy so that is also ruled out, all valves in the servo pipe seems fine checked by blowing air into it. I have also performed some brake booster checked by switching on and off car pressing multiple times brake peddle and it seems it is also no issue. Unfortunately computer system throws only errors complaining about o2 sensor missing it does not log any other extra breath/epc errors. Suspect either of them may be issue - i.e throttle body , gas paddle sensor , fuel injectors , PCV or EGR valve... Hoping to get all these cleaned to see if there is any issue. I am also thinking to just change the PCV valve and see if issue is resolved possible cheapest option. My mechanic is very kind and had agreed to do whatever I say him So no issue will pay him hourly. Please advice if anybody have any suggestion also may be thinking to temporary ask mechanic to swap with some other parts one by one to pin point the root cause. Please advice part number struggled to identify right part number from link as advised by Pete. https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2007-453/6/612-612010/#1 My car Fabia Mk1, 07 plate , BBZ engine 16v 1.4,100HP. (1390 cc) 1. PCV valve 2. Throttle Body 3. Gas paddle Sensor 4. Brake booster KIT 5. EGR valve Otherwise car is very healthy with its age engine is very strong ... does not make sense to just bin it even if plan to change I may make it fit so that it uses its full life rather than polluting planet. Thanks for reading please. Kind Regards raky
  9. Thanks Pete for sorting out my 2nd motor as well. Really appreciate quick help please, Please keep saving planet. Kind Regards raky
  10. Dear @Breezy_Pete, My 2nd driver side window motor on its way to you, this was bought new from skoda and worked well for 5-6 years , it had also intermittent issue like old one which is working perfectly fine now after ur magic. I just want to keep this spare until I change car. Request for your help please. Thanks Kind Regards raky
  11. Dear Pete , Thank you so much for sorting out my old driver side motor it is back to normal , it is great efforts for saving planet does not make sense to spend fortune to buy new motor for 10+ old car. I really apprecaite your quick response as well, I did not understand how 2nd class Royal Mail works but round trip took 4 days. Once again thank you so much. Kind Regards raky.
  12. this was seal missing as mentioned in last message... No issue of compatibility both fitted and worked fine "3b1837016bc but I think my old part was 3B2837016r s"
  13. fyi Lee @TMB this is how they sell on ebay ... trade secret even my know mechanic was asking me how did i mange to refit again the new actuator he did not share me secret , when I tried to pull the cable it was not reaching so I did research and found that 2-3 mm is short which self cut rubber seal had filled the gap and all worked fine, even I was also about to break the clip by forcibly trying to fit it. cheers
  14. Found the root cause of this issue , what happen when we remove actuator which has 2-3mm rubber gasket , this gasket never comes with original actuator sold on ebay so when we fit the new part without 2-3 mm gasket the cable length reduces hence as novice we push hard the cable to fit in the holder which breaks holder.. I had success when I ordered 3mm rubber part and made a gasket out fit on actuator cable nicely fitted and all everything was smooth... fyi @Breezy_Pete Adhesive Backed Neoprene Rubber Sheet / Squares & Strips in all sizes Thickness: 3mm Size: 10 x 10cm £2.45 Sold by: hgl-supplies Hop hit helps somebody. cheers
  15. Hi Experts, Any advice please for my skoda fabia or time to change the car and do more harm to planet even though plenty of life is still left. The core issue is after driving say 20-40 minutes on motorway at 50+ speed, I get ESP + Engine light both together with below two behaviours at different times. I have to switch off engine for 4-5 minutes before esp light to go (possibly something to do with cooling), but engine light stays good few days and disappears. Car goes back to normal and drivable. Behaviours: 1. Car looses power/stalled with no accelerating while driving , goes normal after 4-5 min of staying calm in off position. 2. Car does not looses power everything is smooth and normal but ESP + Engine light comes during driving 3. Tested the car after disconnecting the O2 sensor connection and car never stalled but ECU and engine light do came after driving 20 to 40 min similar to above behaviour. After all these episodes got checked from mechanic and it was always error code mostly related to bad Lambada sensor, please note that in last couple of years 3-4 Lambada/O2 sensors were changed & current o2 sensor is very high-quality so I presume some voltage surge is causing this issue. Also last year I have changed temperature sensor, radiator sensor, map sensor, fuel filter , air filter and checked thermostat which was very health and fitted same again. Apart from above I have noticed few things which are below 1. Some time I get “traction control light” during U turns 2. Some time I see engine rpm stays 1200 -1300 even though the car is neutral during downhill and speed is around 20-30 miles which is very unusual I need to put in gear and then sometimes it come to idle speed i.e 600-700rpm 3. I have also noticed small jerk (if car is at low speed) when the radiator fan starts which is very unusual , generally fan never starts as car never gets heated because of locals drive and even cat cleaner/ injector cleaner additives were added last years which had removed lot of carbon from car. I drive locally not many miles around 15 to 25 miles a day . I have read the culprits could be accelerator pedal , fuel injector, fuel pump or throttle body. I think if it is throttle body then why it doesn't happen at slow speed , not sure I may be wrong. I also think culprit could be accelerator pedal sensor which may be possible but if it is that I believe in 5th gear the engine rev may be around 3k and but at city condition rev rev may be 2.5k. I am not sure for fuel injectors as I would expect more issues during starting or city drive condition where engine may expect more fuel . I am not sure if ECU itself is faulty please. Lastly I had got checked fuel pump just visually for any gunk but it seemed was very clean was not rusty or bad . I have shown car to auto electricals but experts have no time to spend they are dam busy. We have 1-2 expert only in our city. I strongly think something to do with temperature or some voltage fluctuation. Any thought would be highly appreciated. Regards
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