Guide: Fabia mk1 (VRS) braided brake hose install

[Clarke2744]

This post is to act as a guide for those fitting Stainless Steel braided brake hoses to the mk1 Fabia.   This guide was written from my experience having fit Goodridge hoses to my 2004 Fabia VRS, and so may slightly differ for those installing on other models.   Similarly those installing HEL braided lines may also encounter some differences, although I’m sure it’ll be a similar process. 

Below I have attached a link to the Goodridge Stainless Steel hoses that I bought;

https://www.goodridge.co.uk/products/car-brake-kit-for-skoda-fabia-vrs-1999-2007?variant=31695476423

 

Usual guide disclaimer, proceed at your own risk. Remember you’re working on your brakes, so from a safety aspect be careful and don’t cut corners!!

 

So far this guide only advises how to fit braided lines on the front of the car.   I found that there was not enough access to fit the rear lines on axle stands, and shall wait to fit those when I have access to a lift.   I will update this guide once I’ve fitted the rears.

 

To begin with I suggest removing and then tightening the reservoir cap down on a piece of polythene bag or something similar to create a vacuum, to reduce fluid loss when you remove the old brake hoses.

I also suggest giving the area you’re working in a good clean, as you don’t want any dirt etc getting into the brake hoses or calliper.   I used methylated spirits for this, as there’s no danger of it damaging the rubber seals on the calliper. 

 

Next, having jacked the car up and removed the front wheels, unbolt the rubber brake hose banjo bolt at the calliper. From memory I think this is a 12mm bolt.  Be ready with a tray of sorts and the usual blue roll, as you’ll spill some brake fluid regardless of having sealed the reservoir cap.

Be sure to use plenty of lubricating oil, as you will need to re use your old banjo bolt as the braided kit doesn’t come with replacements.   You’ll find the banjo bolts appear to be captive within the end of the stock rubber brake hose. On closer inspection you can remove them and re use them by ‘unscrewing’ the triangular washer that’s keeping them in place.  Once removed give the banjo bolt a good clean in methylated spirits. In particular clean it’s thread.

 

Unfortunately I don’t have a picture of this, but I hope it’s reasonably self explanatory.

 

Once the calliper end is un done, unbolt the union nut, and pull the old rubber hose downwards away from the solid brake line through the chassis bracket.   To unbolt the union nut I suggest using a brake pipe spanner, or at least a close fitting open ended spanner.  Be careful not to round off the nuts, as they’re likely to be tight and or corroded.   Of course if the nut is damaged you’ll need to renew it on assembly.

 

Moving on to the actual installation.  You’ll have to slightly adapt the new stainless steel hose in order to allow it to fit through the chassis bracket before it plugs into the union. Below is a picture of the shape of the chassis bracket, as well as the old rubber brake hose, that you’re going to replicate by filing away as your new stainless hose - rather daunting I know!

This turned out to be a rubbish photo, so I’ve drawn in yellow the shape of the cutouts in the chassis bracket, which match up to the shape of the original rubber hose below;

 

Dont worry about replicating it too accurately - I filed two flat faces which worked fine instead.  Just as long as your braided hose can sit flat, flush with the underside of the chassis bracket, which will ensure the solid pipe and union will screw into your braided hose. 

An example of my braided hose having been filed flat is shown below;

 

 

Edited 29 January, 2018 by Clarke2744

[Clarke2744]

Once you’ve filed the braided hose to fit, push it through the bracket, you’ll have to hold it in place before screwing the union down onto the original spring clip.   Be careful not to over tighten the union nut. I screwed it down so it was hand tight, the spring clip stops it coming loose so it’s not necessary to exert brute force to obtain a seal.

Next route the braided line down towards the calliper.   It’s supported in place by another bracket at the bottom of the strut, held in place by a type of spring clip.  I renewed mine, as the old ones were rusted.  I’ll try and edit this later with the part numbers, but they’re about 25p each from TPS.

Pictures above show how the hose fits to the support bracket. The metal mounting ‘sleeve’ on the hose can be moved along the hose to adjust the length to suit. It then pushes down into the cutout in the support from above, before the spring clip secures it in place from the front.

 

Final stage of installation is to refit the banjo bolt to the braided hose, sandwiching the hose with the two new copper washers provided in the kit.

As shown above.

 

Finally bolt the banjo back into place on the calliper.   When tightening be sure to hold the braided hose very securely by hand, as it’ll try and twist as you tighten it up (you’ll see the original hose had two pronges on the end which fit either side of a split pin sticking out the calliper to prevent twisting the hose)... Sadly the braided hose doesn’t have this feature.

 

Torque settings for the banjo bolt arent given in the workshop manual. I think I tightened mine down to about 20Nm. I think there was an advised torque setting on the box that the braided hoses come in.   Be very careful not to strip or shear the thread or the banjo nut!

 

Once you’ve checked the banjo bolts and unions are all tightened down sufficiently, you can remove the polythene from under the brake fluid reservoir cap.   Remember you’ll then need to bleed the brakes again before you start pumping the pedal!!   Having blended the brakes be sure to check for leaks before using the car. 

Edited 29 January, 2018 by Clarke2744