Alright fellas, well after a few bad experience with a pro tuner, iv been learning the process myself, whanted 200hp out of my 1.9 with VB (pd150) turbo 

Come to the realisation that that's not possible for a reliable tune. 

So I've bought a stage 2 hybrid 

Basically a 1756 kind off 

 

So could some of you help a man out and post up some logs of your maf and boost logs of your cars so I can get some ideas on how much air these things Chuck out so I can wright a base files to put on when I fit the turbo 

 

As I have no idear on how they perform 

And no ****er is going to help someone thats learning that's how this mapping business works for some reason, 

But for me if you want a job doing right do it yourself 

 

Any help be appreciated cheers fellas rich 

 

That's a Dyno off my old file Vs what I paid 250 for that did make 175bhp or not should I say 

 

And a log of my new tune  for a VB turbo 

 

For attention 

Good for you, turbo diesel tuning is so much safer than turbo petrol because you're not going to melt the engine, unlike petrols diesels run cooler when underfuelled so starting off lean will simply make less power, you can increase fuel and do timed in-gear pulls to measure improvements without going near a dyno, just keep an eye out for black smoke, nobody wants to breathe your home-made carbon nanotubes!

 

You can run without MAF altogether to simplify the mapping, the MAF is really only there to decrease emissions and increase economy, not increase performance. Keep the peak boost around 2.0 bar and fit a 4 bar MAP sensor since spikes will max out the standard 3 bar sensor.

Cheers pal, yes there are 

Only reason you need a Dyno is to see power figures and smooth out the curve if your fussy 

And to accurately improve economy, as the differences be very small when changing things and stock maps are set for economy also so so be very little movement with no egr

Although there is emissions but I think differences be very small 

 

Only thing you got to be careful with is soi and too much fuel 

When I was learning managed to lift my head trying for 200hp 

Too much soi and duration tying to keep eoi down 

I'm not wanting to push the limits of the turbo 

That's why I went for a stage 2 hybrid 

Advantages 1752 or stage 1 be close to its limits at 210 bhp where I want to be and turbo builder said spool on the bigger one isn't that much different so got that one 

 

Only thing is going in blind, I need a rough idear of maf readings so I can get a head start to what target boost to start with and fuel 

 

As took me about 20 tunes to get my map right for my stock clutch 

As you got to get it to come on boost nice and smooth so not to upset the flywheel 

And that work all gose out the window in a way as the hybrid is going to spool later and not need as much fuel to start with 

Don't want it smoking it's tits off 

A bit is ok and beneficial as will help speed up gas flow and spool the turbo 

But needing a log or to of one to get a rough idear if that makes sense

 

I recon I'm not going to be needing 2 bar 

For the power I want but like I said until I know what kind of air there shifting I can't get an idear of how much fuel to put in 

To work out power 

Was thinking about 1.9 bar around 3000rpm

And 1.8 4000 to 4500 

 

They should be alot more efficient than a VB 

There most effective around 2000 to 2800rpm 

Where they start tailing off 

Then a 4000 you got to really start dropping boost as a it don't move that much more air and your only going to **** it for very little more power 

 1.6 bar I'd say is your absolute max at 4000

Before it starts to **** it up 

That's why hybrids so much different to map as they come on later and last longer 

And then with stock injectors you got to start been carefull with durations and soi past 4000 

As there starting to get into big numbers 

Where your going to get problems with cyclinder pressures and egt 

So ****ed turbos and head lift 

Haha at least engines are still cheep