Hello lovely people! I am having some serious trouble my my skoda octavia! Its a 1.6 tdi estate 2010. So basically about three weeks ago I had a get an egr change. Everythings working fine after it. Yesterday it went in to limp mode again!! COULD NOT BELIEVE IT!!only been three weeks since getting a new egr. So I took it to the garage put it on diagnostics and its come with the code P0408.

 

Now they guy said he will happily change the egr free of charge because he gives 6 months warranty with all his work. Hes looked in to the issue and said its 80% the solenoid and his warranty does not cover that as the solenoid is seperate to the egr.

 

Now what my question is: on this shape is the solenoid integral to the egr? (Built in to the egr) Because I read on https://www.obd-codes.com/p0408 that it is integral:

 

“Other EGR valves are electronic and directly controlled by the PCM. The PCM will activate solenoid(s) that are integral to the EGR valve. These solenoids will open for varying lengths of time, allowing the exhaust to pass through as needed. The EGR system is continuously monitored for faults. There is a feedback sensor on most EGR valves that informs the computer of the actual EGR position. This sensor usually ranges between .4 and 5 volts

Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/p0408
Copyright OBD-Codes.com”

Is there a sticker near the spare wheel well saying 23R6?

Hello, i checked no there isnt 

Update on the issue so far, so the the mechanic has changed the solenoid which is under the engine cover it has two hoses connected and an electrical plug. But unfortunatley no joy again!

Hello another update so one other mechanic has put the car on diagnostics it is showing that the egr valve or flap is not opening and closing. He has checked the carbon soot level which is 16grams which is high and has said that you have more than likely clogged up the egr again. 

 

But my question is i have only had it on for three weeks could it really get clogged up again that fast? Its driven roughly about 2500 miles max since getting put on three week ago. Its driven as a taxi.

 

the dpf needs cleaning defonately!

Edited 7 June, 20187 yr by MrSR

Also if I get the dpf and egr cleaned out manually will that sort the problem out? Or is it the case once egr is gone its gone because its electronic?

I find it hard to believe an NEW EGR could block up after 3 weeks/ 2500 miles!

The egr valve was brandnew, but I am just so confused about what to do? If I get the dpf cleaned out would that maybe allow the carbon to be thrown out freeing the egr valve?

If anybody could please help with possible solutions I would really really appreciate it, I am seriously down because of this issue

Two reasons an EGR will get sooted up - running rich or burning oil.

 

Unusual to run rich with modern engine management systems and no other fault codes from failed sensors. Could be worn engine? You say you Taxi? How many miles on engine? Service record? Airfilter? Oil changes with VW 505.01 or 507.00 oil twice a year (taxi issues)? Using any more oil than usual?

 

I believe the EGR on the 1.6 TDi is only accessable from below with removal of exhaust and drive shafts and takes about 6 hrs book time? Did he really do this for you? Dealer price is £900plus +VAT!!! If it is way cheaper than this be very wary it has been replaced. Is he a VAG/Skoda specialist? If he has proper VCDS he should be able to diagnose the source of the issues you are having.

 

Hope you get it sorted.

Hello yeah it has a full service history and I just had it full serviced. Milage is 190k indo roughly 700 miles / 850 miles a week but since having the new egr my work has been extremely extremely quiet so to be honest iv probably not even done 1500 miles but i said 2500 to be on safe side. I really dont see how driving it for only 1500 miles in 3 weeks would clog up egr simply doesnt make sense to me at all. 

 

Engine has 190k on it but iv seen these skodas go up to 300k even 350k. Its not using oil more than usual. Iv owned the car 4 months.

If i clean dof out would that then allow the soot to clear up and all is running back to normal or no?

I think you need to take it to a VAG specialist garage. I don't think you can read the soot level in the egr valve. Your mechanic is probably talking about the dpf soot load, and that does not sound too bad.

How much did he charge you for the new egr valve and labour?

Yeah the soot level for the dpf he said the dpf is probs pushing the soot back in to the egr. And nows its clogged up again probs.

 

He charged me £200 labour and £230 for brand new egr.

 

I am going to get them to take egr off and if there is not any soot then it HAS to be a faulty egr! Which in my opinion it is. 

 

I would go to vag specialist but they r all extremely expensive which I can not afford. For egr valve was getting quoted for 750+vat another 700+vat ect

Those costs are too low for a new EGR and labour, so check it was the egr he changed and some some related unit.

The costs shown by Golf-Fiend above are about what you would pay at an inpendent garage and more at a Skoda garage due the high cost of many labour hours. It is a big job because of inaccessibility.

 

I cannot see any way the DPF can push soot back into the EGR. You need another garage.

Your original fault code suggests it's either G212 or the wiring to it that's faulty at least according to rosstech: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16792/P0408/001032

 

I'd get VCDS involved as that should give more detail as to whats causing the code. You can also monitor G212 whilst driving to see what readings it's giving.

 

As others have mentioned, 16g for soot in the DPF is completely normal. The car will attempt a regeneration at 18g and will request a regen light at 24g. I've no idea where your mechanic has got the figure of 10g from...

 

Was it a genuine EGR that was fitted? If I recall correctly, I'm sure I've seen some people having issues with aftermarket replacements including seemingly immediate failure.

Hi thanks for ur reply. Some questions hope u can answer them all.

 

• If it was wiring issue would i not have gotten a p0407 code instead? 

 

•if it was wiring it would be constant rather than it coming in and out of limpmode?

 

• where is the temp sensor for the egr(is it internal of the egr) or is external

 

•also iv just realised this now when the car is out if limp mode the engine sounds as though its on higher revs but it actually isnt on higher revs but when I accelerate now its is sqeeking loud

 

•you said:

 

”I'd get VCDS involved as that should give more detail as to whats causing the code. You can also monitor G212 whilst driving to see what readings it's giving.”

 

this vcds is a programme i download and it will give me readings on my laptop?

 

sorry if its a stupid question

 

 

Edited 9 June, 20187 yr by MrSR

 

4 hours ago, MrSR said:

also iv just realised this now when the car is out if limp mode the engine sounds as though its on higher revs but it actually isnt on higher revs but when I accelerate now its is sqeeking loud

 

 

These could be the early symptoms of a failing clutch.

Iv done mandatory checkes on clutch seems to be fine?? How come the car keeps coming in and out of limp mode?

Edited 9 June, 20187 yr by MrSR

9 hours ago, MrSR said:

• If it was wiring issue would i not have gotten a p0407 code instead? 

 

P0408 is probably signal too high and P0407 is probably signal too low. Either could be possible due to damaged wiring.

 

9 hours ago, MrSR said:

•if it was wiring it would be constant rather than it coming in and out of limpmode?

 

If a wire has chaffed though but it still connected by the insulating sheath or similar, it's entirely possible to have intermittent faults due to wiring.

 

9 hours ago, MrSR said:

• where is the temp sensor for the egr(is it internal of the egr) or is external

 

Why are you asking about the EGR temperature sensor, that's likely to cause a very different fault code.

 

Your code relates to the EGR potentiometer which reports how open the EGR valve is, I believe it's connected to the EGR and therefore should have have been replaced.

 

10 hours ago, MrSR said:

•also iv just realised this now when the car is out if limp mode the engine sounds as though its on higher revs but it actually isnt on higher revs but when I accelerate now its is sqeeking loud

 

I expect that's a different problem and probably unrelated to the EGR issue. Could be clutch slip on a 190k car...

 

10 hours ago, MrSR said:

this vcds is a programme i download and it will give me readings on my laptop?

 

VCDS is a 3rd party diagnostic tool made by Rosstech. It's software that runs on a Windows laptop and a hardware dongle that plugs into your car. You might find a local member that's willing to take a look at your car as genuine versions aren't cheap.

 

You've still not confirmed if its a genuine or aftermarket EGR that's been fitted. If it's the latter it could be the cause of your original problem...

Hi I was asking about the temp sensor because I read somewhere about it is possible the temp sensor could be faulty but yeah it defonately sounds like the egr potentiometer. 

 

The high rev isnt too bad its only when its idle and out of limp the moment its out of limp mode car sounds less noisey so to speak. It normally idles two lines below 1k but when in limp it idles on 1k exactly so nothing to dramatic. If i rev no swreeching ir anything only when turbo is underload its making a sqreeching noise.

 

I trusted this garage as they had very good reviews and they are know to do a proper job hence they charge that little bit more than your usual garage but with regards to the egr valve itself I am not sure if it is an after market one or not. I dropped the car off with them and picked it up the guy did say to me they dont deal with aftermarket ones die to them getting knackered very easily & they only deal strictly with originals but I am very confident that it is an aftermarket. 

 

Once taken off I will only know. Is there any obvious signs to look out for to see if it is an aftermarket one or not? I plan on getting it taken off in 2 weeks.