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A/C Pulley Rattles ( Delphi DH5 Compressor )

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2 hours ago, Loek said:

my dream is to just replace the dented bolts and leave the pully on.

But as the pictures below that I grabbed from a Polish site show: the bolds seem to be screwed into ordinary nuts that can't be reached (and may fall off).

 

They are not bolts but rivets as I explained, I could have drilled them out and fitted rivnuts but I really needed Hank anchor rivet bushes to have the same strength and my stock was in a different country.

 

Never in a million years would I have considered using a nut & bolt like the Polish outfit suggest, the clearance holes for the rivets are too large and it would shake to pieces, my solution was to use another pulley that I had which had tapped holes compatible with the shear plate that i had bought, like the X8R one you illustrated.

  • 10 months later...

Hello chaps, just wanted to add to this thread as it's a good resource for the (seemingly uncommon compared to other variants) Delphi DH5. Hopefully helps someone in the future.

I've been having the same issue as above on the Mrs' 2014 VW Tiguan 2.0tdi 140hp Engine code CFFB.

 

Symptom - rattle from ac compressor clutch at idle, especially when ac is off. Much less noticeable when ac on, but still there. Can diag it by removing the belt and running briefly (belt on mine only runs the a/c and alternator).

Cause - caps on the arms of the clutch are loose in the concave dished bolts (yes, they are bolts not rivets on mine). Not sure what causes this really - I guess just age and miles (I'm on ~110k miles).

All work below done with the compressor on the car - didn't drain the system nor unbolt the compressor. On the Tiguan, access is fairly good but there is a boost hose in the way.

 

I removed the clutch unit to investigate - wanted to highlight that you need to use a puller to get it off the spline, but only loosened the centre 10mm bolt - do not remove as the nose of the puller needs to push against the head of the bolt.

Once it's off, there was a nylon cap on my unit which can be pried off easily.

Then, there is a external snap ring to remove the pulley assembly (belt needs to be off prior to this - easy as tensioner is 5 inches above it).

 

I have ordered a new clutch arm assembly, and found one which comes with new dished bolts (~£10) - wasn't happy just putting a new clutch arm assy on as there was visible wear on the bolts too.

I found the whole kit (clutch arm, pulley, bearing, bolts etc) for about £70 but decided my bearing was fine and hate replacing parts unnecessarily.

All parts from china (Aliexpress) as it seems nobody reputable makes parts for the compressor - they only want to sell you a whole new unit.

 

Going to take a few weeks for it to get here, so I did a temporary bodge. Has resolved the noise after a quick test drive but who knows how long it will last.

I bent the arms of the clutch out more (only slightly as the design has a taper to the triangular part already to get the tension) so they are putting more pressure on the domed bolts. Managed to do this easily with some molegrips.

I also spun the dished bolts to face the other way as the wear is only in one direction. Maybe a bit 'extra' but only takes a minute if you've come this far already.

I have spun one in the photo below, note the paint mark is different for one of the bolts.

 

Pulley bearing code is 35BD219DUM1 if you want to replace that only.

If I don't report back, the bodge has worked - I'll keep the new clutch assembly spare until (if) it starts making noise again.

Cheers

IMG_0308.jpeg

I had the same rattle on mine when I screwed up the AC refill (inexperience) and hydro-locked the pump, eventually the straps came out of the domed rivets and were flailing around, I replaced the whole pulley with an old one I had but now I have what I think is bearing noise but it could also be the tandem pump.

 

Interested to hear that Ali are selling the parts, would you mind sharing the link please?

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