Hi all

 

We were out in the bus (Fabia 2, 2014, 1.2 Tsi 85) the other day and parked up for about 20 mins. The radio was on until it turned itself off with a "battery low" warning.

 

I have a cheapo handsfree/bluetooth/phone charger that plugs into the cigar lighter and it has a voltage readout on it so I checked. I started the engine for a few minutes at it was reading 14.3V.

 

When I turned the engine off again, after a few minutes of having the radio on, the voltage was reported as about 12.1V.

 

I've just been out and the battery voltage was 12.2V (car had a short journey an hour ago) before starting and 14.4 with the engine running at about 2000RPM.

 

Given the age of the battery and what I'm seeing, I guess the battery is on its way out. The car starts fine, even on today's icy morning, but I know batteries don't give much warning these days (or at least the silver calcium Ford ones don't).

 

Sound like a new battery is required?

 

I did look on Tanya for a battery but they didn't appear to have any Varta which is what I'd usually buy.

 

Thanks for any help

Edited 4 December, 20187 yr by briscaF1

PS:

 

Is there any way to find out your stereo code before I disconnect the battery (if I have to) ?

Going by my own model and other posts, you won't need the code. It will self set after fitting the new unit. My system says something like "SAFE" and then sets its self to my earlier settings.

 

BTW, the stereo is designed to turn off, along with lights, etc after a set time, if you eave them on. Mine I think, is set to an hour.I don't know if you can adjust this period of time but its not been an issue. You may just need to charge your battery but otherwise, I find Bosch 5 year warranty ones quite good. (Carparts4less often have good prices, with the online discount codes and they deliver free). Your voltage sounded about right and a flatfish one will still push out enough volts, just not amps, to start the car. 14.4 is the alternator actually charging the battery so that sounds fine. If you charge it properly, you may find it to be perfectly serviceable but if it still goes weak, thats when you KNOW you need a new battery.

 

If you still need the code, your main dealer should be able to sort it for you. They will need to know you are the legal owner so as to avoid fraud/theft of the unit and may perhaps make a nominal charge for their services but I think it unlikely. Pop in, smile and be friendly and have the registration document and I.D.

Edited 4 December, 20187 yr by mrgf

I've had it a couple of times at shows or races when im taking cover in the car listening to the commentry on the radio and tbh my batteries still fine.

The battery may just be low and slightly showings it age. If so a long run or trickle charge should solve the problem.

 

For my car the radio turn-off time is 30 minutes.

 

If you do have to replace the battery the radio is matched to the ECU. Once the car is started and run the codes should automatically get checked and the radio work.

Only if the radio is swapped are codes needed.

 

Should it not work completely disconnect the battery, touch the terminals together for 10 seconds then connect again - positive first of course.

 

You probably will need to reset the electric windows too. Send right down and continue holding the switch for a few seconds then send right up and again continue holding the switch I recall.

Thanks for all the replies.

 

I've changed the battery and the voltage appears better. I put a Varta C22 (IIRC) on from Tanya.

 

For the old battery (also Varta) I could see the electrolyte levels for and one cell was 50% full and another 66%. So, I guess I was correct in my assumption about its remaining life.

 

I didn't need to reset anything but the battery was only off for about 60s. All quick and easy.

 

Cheers again.

...Keep that battery receipt! If it has a long warranty, you may need to call them on it.

On 08/12/2018 at 22:26, delta925 said:

Should it not work completely disconnect the battery, touch the terminals together for 10 seconds then connect again - positive first of course.

 

I read the "of course" to mean "obviously" or "I'm sure you already know this" but its news to me after more than 40 years of working on vehicles and electronics so could you please explain your rationale?

 

Not doubting you, I am always open to learning new things and questioning my own beliefs/knowledge.

J.R.,

 

A quick late night post and you are right to highlight it is ambiguous.

 

To clarify it is the disconnected car terminals that should be connected together NOT the battery ones.

 

The theory as I understand is that if during the previous disconnection or reconnection something gets into a strange state due to either the residual power held in capacitors or the connection not being clean i.e. effectively several disconnections / reconnections in a short time disconnecting again then joining the car terminals together completely discharges any residual power. So long as the reconnection is clean the systems get a fresh clean startup including invoking any reset routines. In this thread the discussion is the radio correctly linking to the car to match security codes.