One number plate bulb was replaced for the MOT back in November, I've cleared the codes and they come straight back again. Google suggests battery / voltage issues, but the engine cranks fast and the issues appeared 5 miles into my journey not directly after starting and a combination of front and rear, left and right?





Address 09: Cent. Elect. (J519) Labels:. 1K0-937-08x-09.clb
Part No SW: 1K0 937 087 J HW: 1K0 937 087 J
Component: BCM PQ35 H  103 0615 
Revision: 00103 AD  
Coding: 40180AB8E05BB1C04008008011000124420000AE726D81605C0540000040
Shop #: WSC 73430 790 00999
VCID: 387F15748B9BD38A2D-806C

Subsystem 1 - Part No: 1Z2 955 119 D Labels: 1KX-955-119.CLB
Component: Wischer 14091 26 0601 
Coding: 00D7B7

Subsystem 2 - Part No: 1K0 955 559 AH Labels: 1K0-955-559-AG.CLB
Component: RLS 100910 05 54 0403 
Coding: 0730ED

Subsystem 3 - Part No: 1Z0 951 171 
Component: Innenraumuebe  008 5101 

Subsystem 4 - Part No: 1K0 951 605 C
Component: LIN BACKUP HO H05 1501 

7 Faults Found:
01504 - Bulb for License-Plate Light (X) 
010 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101010
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 2
Reset counter: 225
Mileage: 207033 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2013.05.11
Time: 23:37:42

Freeze Frame:
Term 15 On
Voltage: 14.25 V
ON
ON
Term 50 Off
OFF
OFF

01518 - Bulb for Back-Up Lights; Left (M16) 
010 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101010
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 225
Mileage: 207790 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2013.06.02
Time: 12:11:40

Freeze Frame:
Term 15 On
Voltage: 14.35 V
ON
ON
Term 50 Off
OFF
OFF

02394 - Parking Light Left Front (M1) 
010 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101010
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 22
Reset counter: 195
Mileage: 205250 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2013.02.23
Time: 07:02:42

Freeze Frame:
Term 15 On
Voltage: 14.20 V
ON
ON
Term 50 Off
OFF
OFF

01500 - Bulb for Fog-Lamps; Right (L23) 
010 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101010
Fault Priority: 4
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 225
Mileage: 207790 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2013.06.02
Time: 12:11:40

Freeze Frame:
Term 15 On
Voltage: 14.35 V
ON
ON
Term 50 Off
OFF
OFF

00979 - Lamp for Low Beam; Right (M31) 
010 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101010
Fault Priority: 1
Fault Frequency: 3
Reset counter: 225
Mileage: 207033 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2013.05.11
Time: 23:37:42

Freeze Frame:
Term 15 On
Voltage: 14.25 V
ON
ON
Term 50 Off
OFF
OFF

01499 - Bulb for High-Beams; Right (M32) 
010 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101010
Fault Priority: 3
Fault Frequency: 3
Reset counter: 225
Mileage: 207033 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2013.05.11
Time: 23:37:43

Freeze Frame:
Term 15 On
Voltage: 14.20 V
ON
ON
Term 50 Off
OFF
OFF

00927 - Terminal 30 (Right) 
011 - Open Circuit - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101011
Fault Priority: 1
Fault Frequency: 21
Reset counter: 227
Mileage: 207033 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2013.05.11
Time: 23:37:52

Freeze Frame:
Term 15 On
Voltage: 14.20 V
ON
ON
Term 50 Off
OFF
OFF


TIA

 

1 hour ago, dox1966 said:

00927 - Terminal 30 (Right) 
011 - Open Circuit - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101011
Fault Priority: 1
Fault Frequency: 21

 

Looks like you have an intermittent supply problem. Check for loose fuse etc 

Would a single fuse supply all those lights? I can’t do anything with the car until Friday due to work etc

 

I wondered if there was some electronic box of tricks somewhere?

 

thanks for the reply

The BCM (Body Control Module) or CECM (Central Electrics Control Module) controls all the exterior light functions.

 

It is usually located down by the pedals somewhere. 

Under bonnet relay plate / fuse box, F16 30A fuse terminal corroded ( not blown) , replaced the fuse and all’s well again.

 

F26 is the fuse for the opposite lights and is a much larger fuse also 30A.

 

 

That does not look corroded but the plastic around the female pins looks melted, I would say that the pins need nipping up to make good contact.

 

But my eyesight is not good.

 

Editted, having seen the lower part of the fuse and looking at the corresponding terminal on the fusebox it is definitely not corrosion but arcing from a bad contact, look at the female terminals on the fusebox with some urgency, it will not improve by changing or cleaning the fuse.

Edited 19 January, 20197 yr by J.R.

16 minutes ago, J.R. said:

That does not look corroded but the plastic around the female pins looks melted, I would say that the pins need nipping up to make good contact.

 

But my eyesight is not good.

 

Editted, having seen the lower part of the fuse and looking at the corresponding terminal on the fusebox it is definitely not corrosion but arcing from a bad contact, look at the female terminals on the fusebox with some urgency, it will not improve by changing or cleaning the fuse.

 

The pics show it clearer than in real life with 52 year old eyes lol. I think you're right, is it a serviceable item? Are the fuse connectors available?

Looks like the contacts have not been exerting enough pressure on the fuse blades, hence high resistance and arcing resulting in melting of the fuse plastic and fuseboard plastic.

Make sure the contacts are tight by easing them out a little towards the centre if you can but I expect the melting of the base plastic will not allow it. May need to have a new fuse board assembly.  I would also throw away the old fuse as it will not offer good contact on the burnt side.

Or do what I would have done when my eyes were 42 years younger, wedge it in place with silver foil

 

Actually you could build up the thickness of the fuse blade with solder so the young Chancers method has some validity.

 

Replacement of the fuse board is the only proper long term solution unless you can remove and redress the contacts.

Edited 19 January, 20197 yr by J.R.

• £246 for a new fuse box (diagnose, supply and fit would be around £400 - £500?), its a common failure due to water ingress according to the Skoda parts guy, so well worth checking during routine maintenance.

Maybe worth making a sticky as these cars get older failure will become more common and as you can see from the pics until you remove the fuse there's no external signs.

Edited 21 January, 20197 yr by dox1966