Is the the right tool for my vrs

 

https://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/tools/car-service-tools/brake-service-tools/brake-system-tools/?553773570&0&t5_390

Yes, that will do it, its half the price that I paid for mine 20 years ago but more than double what I have just paid for a duplicate to use here in France, the latest one was €8 delivered from Ebay.fr

Ensure the bleed nipple is slackened before rewinding the piston and if it's really stiff to turn consider a strip and clean otherwise you could be in for a binding brake.

 

I didn't like the proper tool for some reason so made my own from an old socket, washer and nail.  Before that I used adjustable pliers, just takes a wee while to turn it bit by bit.

 

 

Edited 2 March, 20197 yr by MicMac

Thanks guys

I have never released a bleed nipple to wind back the caliper pistons, the excess fluid is returned to the master cylinder reservoir, could be an issue with overflowing if it has been topped up.

 

I once wound back the piston in a similar way to your photo when stuck at a race track without the proper tool, the problem is that without the axial pre-load that the correct tool applies the piston just spins without retracting along the helix/thread. I got there in the end by levering but needed a second pair of hands, once it caught and started moving it worked OK.

I agree with J.R.

 

I take off the MC lid and syringe out some fluid so it doesn't overflow.

 

While releasing the bleeder does remove some of the old fluid, i don't like the risk of introducing air into the system.

No need to undo the bleed nipple, can cause further problems. i just use a small 90 degree pick to hook the dust seal slightly away from the piston and spray a bit of WD40 or similar penetrating fluid in and use a proper windback tool to wind the piston back. The penetrating fluid does two things, it lubricate's the dust seal so its dosen't get twisted and will sit properly and also lubricates the thread in the piston so makes it easier to windback in.

Simply clever

 

I will remember that and do it in future.

 

I have never had one apart but is the thread not internal within the piston?

 

Still worth lubricating the outside though even if no external thread as thats where its going to get gummed up and/or rusty.

On 01/03/2019 at 23:57, MicMac said:

Ensure the bleed nipple is slackened before rewinding the piston and if it's really stiff to turn consider a strip and clean otherwise you could be in for a binding brake.

 

I didn't like the proper tool for some reason so made my own from an old socket, washer and nail.  Before that I used adjustable pliers, just takes a wee while to turn it bit by bit.

 

 

Just to clarify, the DIY tool is turned easily by hand from a ratchet extension as the socket still has the ½" drive. If it was tight enough to warrant a ratchet to turn then the thing needs attention.

 

The adjustable pliers were just for show as another option and not the means of turning the DIY tool.

 

Re cracking the bleed nipple...

 

Whatever works best for you.

Won't spraying WD40 into the dust seal damage the piston seals?.

10 hours ago, adokS12 said:

Won't spraying WD40 into the dust seal damage the piston seals?.

I don't think so.  It's fairly benign.

 

You could also squirt a couple ml of brake fluid in there with a syringe and mop up any spillage.

 

We don't have the same corrosion issue in AU as the UK so it's never been that much of an issue for me.