bloody door locks

[SkUG]

2nd time in as many years the locking barrel components have turned to dust.... just ordered a new replcement set of alloy bits n bobs...

but

somehow i managed to dislodge this bit (circled) - pretty confident the plastic bit is broken

is there an easy way to get this back together/anyone got a spare bit of plastic? (originally non central locking but someones retro fitted central locking - non working)

CHEERS GUYS N GALS

[TMB]

Hard to see properly from that pic but it looks like the bit I've highlighted in this pic has broken off? But if it hasn't then there's nothing else wrong with it that I can see. Can you clarify what you mean has dislodged?

 

 

 

Edited 2 April, 2019 by TMB

[KenONeill]

@SkUG - I'd agree with TMB: Is there a sign of crystaline or corroded metal in the area you've both highlighted?

[SkUG]

thats not the actual picture of my car - sorry - i tried to take a picture but my camera kept focusing on the car in the background...  i think the hooky bit has been mising for a while (wasnt there last time i opened up the door - PO fitted some dodgy retro fitting of central locking) whole thing crumbled as bits came off in my hand, seemed small enough to be the hole portion if that makes sense?

 

"disloge" the "pull pin" is no longer attached to the white plastic bit as it appears to be broken...

Edited 2 April, 2019 by SkUG

[SkUG]

[SkUG]

Meanwhile...  wheres this supposed to go? Door lock seems to work perfectly fine without it... Fell out when i took the barrel out

[LB123]

Part of the assembly that transfers movement of key/barrel to the lock mechanism. Five bits as below.

[SkUG]

Yes but where does the bit in my hand go in relation to those bits ive just replaced( all five bits in your picture)? It was loose inside the door!

 

Part 6

Edited 7 April, 2019 by SkUG

[LB123]

Sorry. I was wrong. That 'barrel' bit goes inside the lock housing and the lock cylinder with all the pins in it goes inside that 'barrel' and the pins when they key is out stick out into the side gaps. The transfer bits in my pic stick on the other end from the key of the cylinder that goes inside that 'barrel'.

Correcting the terminology it is the lock cylinder. The bit it fits into is just called the cylinder housing and the bit that fits inside the cylinder and has the pins in and which is the bit the key fits in and turns is called the plug! Here's a key in a plug. Pins have been retracted and lined up by the key. The cylinder should be completely hidden inside the cylinder housing and the plug in the cylinder. The cylinder is inserted from the inside, the plug from the outside of the housing and the five bits both transfer the movement of the plug and hold the plug and cylinder in the housing.

This video shows it about 3 minutes in. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jf4uLb2IZiU

Edited 7 April, 2019 by LB123

[SkUG]

Ahh, does it really need the plug? Doesnt appear to do anything.... (probably why i had a bit of difficulty putting it back together!)

Cheers

 

Now i just need to try yo get the pull pin bit to stay in the broken plastic bit somehow....  Anyone got a spare?

Edited 8 April, 2019 by SkUG

[TMB]

You could remove the lock pin rod and have no door button. It's doesn't affect the locking.

[TMB]

4 hours ago, SkUG said:

Ahh, does it really need the plug? Doesnt appear to do anything....

 

 

If you didn't have the plug you'd have a nice hole in the door handle and nowhere to insert the key 

[SkUG]

5 hours ago, TMB said:

You could remove the lock pin rod and have no door button. It's doesn't affect the locking.

Need it to work my aftermarket shoddy central locking unfortunately 

[SkUG]

5 hours ago, TMB said:

 

If you didn't have the plug you'd have a nice hole in the door handle and nowhere to insert the key 

No.. no.. wrong bit! The bit the key goes in (barrel with all the pins) is fitted and all the 5 bits in the picture are fitted and part 6 (the bit in my hand) was rattling about in the door... Door opens and locks perfectly fine without the "plug" (aka part 6)

 

Edited 8 April, 2019 by SkUG

[TMB]

4 hours ago, SkUG said:

No.. no.. wrong bit! The bit the key goes in (barrel with all the pins) is fitted and all the 5 bits in the picture are fitted and part 6 (the bit in my hand) was rattling about in the door... Door opens and locks perfectly fine without the "plug" (aka part 6)

 

 

The piece in your hand is the replaceable insert for the lock barrel. See this video at 3:05....

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jf4uLb2IZiU

 

 

I should imagine that if you've put the cylinder back together without it, the lock may turn with anything like a screwdriver as there will be nothing for the lock pins to locate into.

Edited 9 April, 2019 by TMB

[SkUG]

I'll try a screwdriver in the morning Only other thing i can think of that it already had one in there... At least it's one less thing to rattle!! 

 

Hmm how much does 3d printing cost? Maybe i can get the broke bit printed? 

[TMB]

Sorry I don't know anything about 3D printing. Why not just buy a cheap used lock off ebay and take the plastic thing off? Also you can get brand new lock units pretty cheap on ebay too.

[KenONeill]

7 hours ago, SkUG said:

 

Hmm how much does 3d printing cost?

How long is a piece of string? How fast will a plastic part wear?

[LB123]

I can scavenge the plastic piece from a lock I replaced a while ago.  Can you message me your address and I will post it to you.

[SkUG]

i guess i do need that bit... as you said... it opens with a screwdriver - wow - all these years i've had the car (even had to call AA out for when i locked my keys in the car when replacing the battery - doors automatically locked when reconnected!) and i've not tried to open it with another key/screwdriver - hilarious!

Guess i'll be taking it all apart again as the barrel fell out tonight n all

[SkUG]

Big shout out to LB123 for sending me a replacement part - you sir are a legend! - now i just need to fish all the bits that fell in the door out again.. lol