As said.

1) what types of fuse are in the box . From a quick measure and google I'd say mine are Regular and possibly mini, but again there's other dimensions.

2) Any definite source of what are controlled from the x contact ( i.e. what is off when ignition is off), and any spare populated fuse sockets on this .( I'm looking at one solution- tapped fuse off of a non used fuse).

I've decided to upgrade to a Nextbase 312G ( Argos one, which is minus Wifi , but a lot cheaper )  and I'd prefer it to be ignition controlled, whereas the ciggie socket is not. I could tap into the heater circuits, but I'd rather not start stripping the dash. I've got other electronic solutions, but these are more complex.

 

Mini blade fuses and standard blade fuses.

What about using a piggy-back fuse adaptor?

 

 

Edited 29 April, 20197 yr by TMB

 

Just spotted them on e bay and wondered if anyone had any experience of them. Certainly beats stripping the dash for a switched supply. Certainly cheap solution. Certainly easier than the electronic option ,needing a comparator circuit to sense when alternator gives out more than non charge volts.

I assume that one set of fuse sockets is original circuit and other is for aux circuit. Looking at that, my idea would be to use a circuit ( rear wiper comes to mind) to switch a

relay for the ciggie supply to dashcam. Bit more complex, but covers failure of main circuit from aux circuit, as it's not unknown for lower value fuses not to fail whilst the higher one at start of circuit goes pop.

One of the things that has held up my central remote locking mod has been the need for a switched supply to shut the unit down when ignition is on.

Reminds me I must get some mini fuses . RS is an ideal place if there's one local to you. Order online today and pick up tomorrow. Postal charges are a bit steep otherwise.

Edited 29 April, 20197 yr by VWD

1 hour ago, VWD said:

I assume that one set of fuse sockets is original circuit and other is for aux circuit.

 

Yep, looks that way to me.

 

I know I've seen others use them for dashcams on here. If you use a relay it might be an idea to get one with an integral flyback diode to prevent any voltage flyback from the relay's coil.

 

Halfords do packs of assorted mini fuses for about £8....

 

 

 

 

 

Edited 29 April, 20197 yr by TMB

Plenty of offers on e bay- I've got one on order at circa £3 for 60 mini fuses . Standard practice in electronics to fit a reverse diode  on a relay. Prevents the di/dt *l voltage spikes from causing havoc with electronics. Not the first belt I've had on a railway low voltage ( circa 3v ) with a decent sized relay ,when disconnecting a track feed of only a few volts. Only milliamps broken in a microsecond is a factor of 1000 times with  even a low inductance can be a lot of volts, that electronic circuits don't like, unless there's protection.

On 29/04/2019 at 19:34, TMB said:

What about using a piggy-back fuse adaptor?

 

 

For anyone interested . Just received mine and tested it. As suspected- one fuse is for the "new circuit " created to the crimp  end . The other fuse replaces the fuse removed to insert lead. Now to start fishing wires through the dash.