suggestions for installing Brodit Active Clip with fixed installation

[bstginger]

Hi all

 

Just purchased a Brodit proclip to fit over the air vent, together with an active clip with USB C connector & Ive ordered the fixed installation model.

 

Whats suggested option for connecting up to power? Should I use the spare fuse slot with a piggyback type fuse, or is there another place I can source power from ie back of bolero stereo (I'm guessing no)

 

Also, running cable from where phone will be to the fuse box (assuming Im going with that method of install) - are there any recommended threads or suggestions about where I can run cable safely and tidily?  Best Ive found are some of the dashcam installations which will help 

 

If i need to remove stereo to help with a tidy cable install, which removal tool will i need?

 

Will post up some install pictures once Ive done - appreciate any suggestions up front that might help!

 

Thanks

 

[JohnnyType2]

2 sets of VAG euro stereo keys will remove it.

 

[bstginger]

Cheers for that.  All the stuff arrived today.  Which fuse can I use to run power from?  Ideally, I'm looking to use a redundant slot that is switched with the ignition & I can connect the piggyback fuse spur to draw the power for the brodit?

 

Interestingly it states in documentation to use a 2A fuse - although not sure that's correct given it connects to a dual USB - 1 Qualcomm & 1 2.4A... but I will use a 2A fuse anyway.  Was hoping to run another USB cable off the 2.4A slot and then could charge the wifes phone at the same time...

Edited 31 July, 2019 by bstginger

[gregoir]

I'd not use that suction type mounting again. Caused a visible flattening of the mock leather dashboard.  Took a month or so before the visible circle went. I used warm wheat bags to help things along.

[JohnnyType2]

On 31/07/2019 at 19:36, gregoir said:

I'd not use that suction type mounting again. Caused a visible flattening of the mock leather dashboard.  Took a month or so before the visible circle went. I used warm wheat bags to help things along.

thats why its on a rigid pad 

[MarkyG82]

I had a clamshell type holder with a ring of sticky stuff on the bottom prevent slippy slidey.  Not had it on the dash since last summer and there is still a mark.  I wonder if heat packs would help clear it.

 

Have a spare brodit clip if anyone wants it.  Currently with a simple spring loaded holder 3M taped to it.  Simple and effective.  Android Auto now so not needed. Clamshell thingy is in MrsG82's car.

[bstginger]

quick update.  

 

After some faffing around this morning have got it all working!  Will update thread with more pictures once I have finished (am waiting for a few glue dots to arrive to make the cable look even tidier) but just wanted some points adding to the thread while it's still fresh in my head.  But its way better now I no longer need to use the cigarette lighter socket & have a cable running from there - particularly now that when the ignition is switched off there's no power to the mobile phone & no risk of draining the battery.  also much cheaper than the local car stereo shop who wanted £200 to fit the kit.  I managed to get 10% or 15% off the price of the kit from Brodit (cant remember which!) by messaging them via facebook if they were running any discount codes as they had run a 20% discount code previous year.  Code was DISCOVERY

 

1.Got in touch with Brodit.  On the fixed installation kit, there are  2 USB ports: a Qualcomm one & a 2.4A one, so I wanted to know if I could use both at the same time.  Their response was yes &  recommendation was to use a 3A fuse, to use the QC 3.0 port for the cradle & the 2.4A port for a secondary device.

 

2. Removing the glove box - followed this video, however, I actually lifted the bar & fixed it back on not from the side as shown, I found it was easier to do it from the angle he's shining the torch from at 1m10s (each to their own though - it was easier than I thought)

 

 

3. Using Fuse Spur - Messed up by thinking I needed micro fuses, so had to wait till today for the normal size fuses to arrive.  These are the ones I bought (TOOHUI 32V Standard Fuse Holder, Car Add-A-Circuit Fuse Tap with Wire Harness, Piggy Back Blade Fuse Holder Connector, ACU Medium Fuse Tap with 3A/5A/15A Fuse and Fuse Puller (Pack of 6). It didn't come with a ring terminal connector to earth the black wire from the Brodit kit to the car chassis (annoying!), but luckily I had one kicking around.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07PNJGVMG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

4. to remove Stereo I used these keys - probably the easiest stereo I have ever disconnected!  AFA Tooling Radio Removal Tool Replacement for 1C0-051-530, T87P-19061-A for Ford, VW, Mercedes, and Audi – Easy Grip Handles

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07Q2QQT3B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

5. For the secondary USB port, purchased this - AWINNER® USB 3.0 Extension Cable A Male to A Female USB Extender Cord Black (0.5M, Flat). I wanted a secondary USB cable port to come out just above the retractable tray, but despite much effort, I couldn't seem to run the cable so gave up rather than removing any more of the central console.  I purchased this flat one, having it come out just under the stereo - not ideal & doesn't look great, but it works.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01JGQBLZ6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

6. Connected the red wire from the Brodit kit to the fuse tap.  Used 2x3A fuses & connected it to slot 48 as unused & only works when the ignition is on.  

 

7. connected the black wire to a ring connector & then fixed that to one of the chassis screws on the left side of the dashboard

 

8. Housed the Brodit cabling, power supply box, etc in the area behind the stereo display.  Lots of room there.  Havent cabled tied it in, for now, will do in a few weeks.

 

9. Ran the Brodit power cable out by driver side, along the ridgeline for the central console & then using these to help keep it nice and tidy Car Cable Clip, JOTO Car Charger Mounts Cable Tie Holder, Car Cable Organizer, Desk Wall Cable Wire Clips, Computer, Electrical, Cord Cable Tie Drop (Black, 10 piece)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0185HEXMK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

10.Took the opportunity to replace the pollen filter which is housed above the fuses.   Found that the Skoda dealership had put the previous one upside down (although I dont know if it actually makes a difference, but it was incredibly dirty.)  Purchased from Eurocarparts as I could pick up locally & only £10.99 for a Mann one.

 

11. Before putting everything back together, tested both ports working ok.  Removed the stereo removal keys first before putting the stereo screen back in place, being careful to place the flat USB port to the passenger side of the screen

 

Things I would have done better/don't like

 

1. Exit for both of usb cables means it is not as tidy as I would like,  but I didnt have the confidence to remove more of the central console to find better exit points.

 

2. The 4 screws that came with the brodit proclip to fix the pro clip to the holder are too long & slightly protrude out of the back of the pro clip so there's always a risk you could catch yourself on them & it doesn't look very good.   For me this is a design issue, Brodit needs to resolve by using smaller length screws or making the plastic slightly thicker.

 

3. The bottom of the proclip pushes a lot against the top of the stereo, forcing it out slightly & im not keen on.  time will tell if this causes a problem...

 

 

 

 

Edited 10 August, 2019 by bstginger