I know this is a old topic. But following different topics I found on this thread, I identified that I have an issue with my load signal wire. So...I bought a new connector, checked the continuity between the connector and alternator, solder the a new connector in and nothing has changed....I still don't have a batter light on one turn of the key. And if I have it, the servo light as well as the airbag light are also on, and the engine will not start. So I will need to turn the key back and try again, after what it works. With the engine on, from time to time the battery comes up for a split of a second and I can hear the relay clicking. And of course the ASR light comes up after a 30  minute drive. Now....if it is not down there at the connector, and the connection between them and the alternator is good, is there still a decently easy way to fix or? And if not, how bad is to drive like that....what can happen? And what are the risks? 

 

Which connector did you replace, the one with blue and brown/red wires going to alternator or the one it mates with, going to control units (blue wire into cabin, green/violet to engine ECU)?

Wires can break on either side of this connector pair, sometimes both sides.

The one that goes to the ECU, because for the one that goes to the alternator I checked the continuity with a multimiter and everything was fine on both cables. In addition because I had to cut the cables a bit high cause they were rusty I could solder them from underneath so I removed the air pipe and pulled them up so I cand solder the cable from above. And because the new connector had quite long cables I was able to connect it directly to the alternator, skipping the other cable all together (just to check). And it did not work, same symptoms. 

Maybe check continuity of the purple/green wire to pin 38 of the engine ECU connector next?

From your description of the problems, there looks to be more than one fault mixed up here.

Have you tried charging up the battery with an external charger to see if that improves things?

 

The blue wire is the one associated with the battery light either working or not, and the alternator starting up properly or not. 

 

The load signal wire is the other one, that goes to the engine ECU, and that when broken causes the ASR light to come on after a while .

Edited 7 February, 20206 yr by Wino

I have concerns when people diagnose electrical problems with a continuity check. A circuit my have continuity, a single strand of corroded wire may connect point A-B, but doesn't mean it will work. A far better check is a resistance check, that will tell you more about the health of an electrical circuit.

On 07/02/2020 at 09:56, Wino said:

Maybe check continuity of the purple/green wire to pin 38 of the engine ECU connector next?

From your description of the problems, there looks to be more than one fault mixed up here.

Have you tried charging up the battery with an external charger to see if that improves things?

 

The blue wire is the one associated with the battery light either working or not, and the alternator starting up properly or not. 

 

The load signal wire is the other one, that goes to the engine ECU, and that when broken causes the ASR light to come on after a while .

Currently I am a bit overwhelmed with work/school, asap I have some free time I will do you suggestions and post the results. 

6 minutes ago, Tech1e said:

I have concerns when people diagnose electrical problems with a continuity check. A circuit my have continuity, a single strand of corroded wire may connect point A-B, but doesn't mean it will work. A far better check is a resistance check, that will tell you more about the health of an electrical circuit.

In regards to that I think that's actually what (at least my multimeter) does because it not only just makes the sound but also displays a number (usually the sound stoping at arround 1000 ohms). But I will check also the resistance between the connections, again asap I have some free time.