Hi.

I have Skoda Octavia MK3 2013 model. I bought it for 3 months ago. It sometimed showed that start stop function is not available. But it was running fine for some days. 

 

When i start the car first time after a day or 6-8 hour it cranks 3 to four or somtimes 4-5 times before it starts. 

I changed the battery for some days ago because engine crank was very slow and battery status was 12 volt. I put digital volt meter in Cigarette input and it show that when car tried to crank the voltage was as low as 9.6 volt and the car started after 8 cranks. It showed glow plug mil lamp. 

I got it scanned and it showed P3043 rpm too low on fuel pump. I changed the fuel pump. The worked fine for two week before it started behaving with same cranking issue. Temprature in this period varied between -2 to +10.

10061 - Fuel Pump 
          P3043 00 [101] - Mechanical Malfunction
and this

10064 - Fuel Pump 
          P308D 00 [096] - RPM too Low
          Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear

The code is copied on net but that was also shown for my car which was reason for i changed the fuel pump. I have not paid for new diagnostic and i am not sure if i should buy a scanner for my car.

 

 

I changed the battery to a new start stop for some days ago and now i can see the battery status when i press and hold until battery icon shows on set button in dash panel to 90%.

 

Yesterday i noticed that on long drive in 40 km digital voltmeter showed only 12.9 volt. It showed approx  13.1 to 14.4v when dowhill driving. I stopped the car and did following test. 

1. Started the car engine

2. Disconnected the minus terminal

3. Digital volt meter showed 13.1 volt

4. connected back the minus terminal

5. turned off the car

6. Connected the minus of voltmeter to minus terminal and the other end to the dynamo body it showed 0 volt. This was to check if the dynamo was faulty or not.

 

Today it showed 12.4 volt on cigarett with voltmeter and when i started the car. I turned the key three times before i started  the car. The engine cranked three times and it showed the glow plug light. Temprature was almost 9 degree. The happend with my old battery when it was at 12.3 volt. At that time glow plug also showed and P3043 RPM too low was logged.

I suppose this is the same this time too. I do not know if battery get drained. So i opened the bonnet and drivers side door and locked the lock. 

After two hours i did a new test.

 

1. Set the multimeter to amp meter

2. Connected the mulitmeter to minus terminal with crocodile clamps and put the other end to battery minus terminal.

3. Without and disconnection the apm meter showed 0.01amps which means 10 milli amps. This means there is no battery draing problem as i can assume. Or it could be an intermittent problem that does not happen every day but from time to time.

 

So what could be the problem?

I hope someone can have knowlegde and help me out. 

 

One more thing... Glow plug light is turned off when all other lights are turned off after 5-7 seconds when you swith the key. Engiine light turn off when engine is started.

1. When you fitted the new battery did you code in the new battery? If not the car thinks the old battery is still fitted and the SOC and HOC is wrong. It won't charge the new battery correctly as a result.

 

2. Another reason you need to recode is I believe you have fitted an AGM battery. This requires higher charging voltage than the standard EFB battery. So unless you've recoded the AGM battery will be constantly low on charge even though the car thinks its an EFB and charged.

 

3. Do you realise the charging scheme is a micro hybrid one? Thats why going downhill and braking the alternator voltage is elevated (recuperation/energy recovery) and under acceleration the voltage drops (energy saving using battery power)

 

https://www.yuasa.co.uk/info/technical/micro-hybrid-hybrid-vehicles-explained/

 

Recode the battery, using the correct information, AGM, Ah, serial number needs to be changed to indicate battery has been changed. Then recharge the battery fully using an AGM aware smart charger taking care to connect the charger as per user manual. Connect the negative charging lead to the ground tab on the bulkhead near the battery and do not connect directly to the negative terminal, otherwise the SOC will get confused and you will continue to have problems.

 

Hope this helps resolve your problems.

 

Edited 8 April, 20206 yr by xman

18 minutes ago, xman said:

1. When you fitted the new battery did you code in the new battery? If not the car thinks the old battery is still fitted and the SOC and HOC is wrong. It won't charge the new battery correctly as a result.

 

2. Another reason you need to recode is I believe you have fitted an AGM battery. This requires higher charging voltage than the standard EFB battery. So unless you've recoded the AGM battery will be constantly low on charge even though the car thinks its an EFB and charged.

 

3. Do you realise the charging scheme is a micro hybrid one? Thats why going downhill and braking the alternator voltage is elevated (recuperation/energy recovery) and under acceleration the voltage drops (energy saving using battery power)

 

https://www.yuasa.co.uk/info/technical/micro-hybrid-hybrid-vehicles-explained/

 

Recode the battery, using the correct information, AGM, Ah, serial number needs to be changed to indicate battery has been changed. Then recharge the battery fully using an AGM aware smart charger taking care to connect the charger as per user manual. Connect the negative charging lead to the ground tab on the bulkhead near the battery and do not connect directly to the negative terminal, otherwise the SOC will get confused and you will continue to have problems.

 

Hope this helps resolve your problems.

 

 

1. Battery is not recoded. 

2. Yes it is AGM. It is not varta but the local OEM for Store in Norway. 12 70Ah 760 cca AGM. Should it be Binary -- AGM be selected or Fleece? I can ask for reporgram. Can we choose VARTA as product since it is OEM?

3. Can we choose the normal charging scheme or reprogram to normal charging scheme? I drive not much and it would be nice if it charged all the time to have full battery.

 

Many thanks for quick response @xman

 

The best thing to do is to get your car properly coded to the new battery, there is no reason not to trust it to look after itself.

 

If you are still having issues with slow cranking after the fact then you probably need to be looking elsewhere.

 

What engine do you have and which fuel pump have you changed? On your year of car I believe there are 3. Have you changed the fuel filer recently?

 

19499/P3043/012355 - Fuel Pump: Mechanical Malfunction

Possible Symptoms

• Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) ON
• Power Loss
• Engine Stalling/Hard Starting

Possible Causes

• In Tank Fuel Pump failure
• Restriction in Fuel Delivery System
• Fuel Pump Control Module (on systems with J538-Fuel Pump Control Module)

Possible Solutions

• Check Fuel Pump
  • Check Mechanical Pressure and Volume
  • Refer to proper workshop manual for correct testing procedures
• Check J538-Fuel Pump Control Module

Special Notes

• TPI 2017024 has details about checking J538 software version.
• J538-Fuel Pump Control Module is on top or near the in tank Fuel Pump

Edited 8 April, 20206 yr by SuperbTWM

It is a CLHA 1.6tdi 5E5 77kW 2013 model. Automatic gear dsg 7 gears.

 

I will ask for recoding of battery.

 

It was intank fuel pump that i changed. 

I hope charging will solve since it start even after few extra cranks. Since battery is not fully charged perhaps that cause it to deliver low voltage at start and give error from fuel pump again i guess.

My friend tested plugs for me by doing a cable from battery to ignite directly on glow plug and he said they all are good. 

 

Edited 8 April, 20206 yr by dreamlearn

I have no experience of coding batteries but there are a number of other threads on Briskoda about this.

 

I have read here on Briskoda, that if you disconnect the small connector on the battery negative terminal connector (i.e. the current sensor) then the car reverts to standard old fashioned charging scheme with fixed voltage (~14.3 v for EFB/standard). You will need to recode it to AGM if you want the correct voltage which is slightly different for AGM. I'm not sure if stop/start would be disabled if you do this though.

 

I don't know if the above "hack" is true or not either.

 

Just changing the serial no by one digit is sufficient to inform the car that a new battery has been fitted apparently.

 

I suspect your low cranking speeds are simply down to the low SOC of your new AGM battery caused mainly by lack of coding. It should be the 1st thing you do before changing other things.

Edited 8 April, 20206 yr by xman

I hope your friend hasn't fried all your glow plugs, they seem to be 6V glow plugs these days so testing them on 12V is not a good idea

For a month ago i changed Diesel filter, air filter and cabin filter. 

 

I really not hope so. He is old fashion mechanic how like to repair Toyota but i understand now that this can be harmful if his knowledge is only for old cars. 

4 minutes ago, SuperbTWM said:

I hope your friend hasn't fried all your glow plugs, they seem to be 6V glow plugs these days so testing them on 12V is not a good idea

 

I really not hope so. He is old fashion mechanic how like to repair Toyota but i understand now that this can be harmful if his knowledge is only for old cars. 

2 hours ago, dreamlearn said:

One more thing... Glow plug light is turned off when all other lights are turned off after 5-7 seconds when you swith the key. Engiine light turn off when engine is started.

In low temperatures and with a cold diesel engine, the glowplug light stays on for several seconds when the ignition is turned on. The colder the engine/ambient is, the longer the glowplug preheat time is .

 

You are supposed to wait until the glowplug light goes out before trying to start the car.

 

Otherwise you will simply have to crank until the glowplugs have heated sufficiently, and probably far more because you are cooling the cylinder and glowplugs when cranking too early.

I understand. 

Normally only engine light is left ambient when i turn the key fully. All others light are off. 

If glow plugs were fried as @SuperbTWM desribe, than car shhould not start at all?

18 minutes ago, dreamlearn said:

I understand. 

Normally only engine light is left ambient when i turn the key fully. All others light are off. 

If glow plugs were fried as @SuperbTWM desribe, than car shhould not start at all?

 

My experience (with older engines non CR) is if any glowplugs are not working, you can still start the engine but it just takes more cranking, and likely to see some white smoke from the exhaust for a second or so when it fires up.

 

CR engines are supposed to be better at cold starting than the older type.

 

Of course a weak battery/slow cranking and/or really low temperatures (well below zero) make it far less likely.

Edited 9 April, 20206 yr by xman

Many thanks for help. I will revert back after a while and when battery is recoded and tested.

 

I will also look for smoke color if there is smoke.

Edited 9 April, 20206 yr by dreamlearn

Hi @xman. 

Today i just tried to hook out sensor plug from the battery minus terminal to see if the car show some error on dashboard but i could not see any warning on dashboard?

Does this mean that this sensor or what it is can be damaged? The car worked fine after coding battery in two days but today battery was low and these two error came here on dashboard. The same error codes showed on Carista car diagnosing tool from a friend for three weeks ago.

 

Maybe there is a electrical issue too that is draining battery or cause computer to not go to sleep. Battery voltage was at 12.1v and when engine cranked 3-4 times before start battery voltage dropped to as low as 10.4 volt. 

Serial number on battery was changed to "TA" when i checked it today in vcds.

0531 - Footwell Illimunation 
          B11FF 01 [009] - Electrical Failure
          Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear

197644 - Control Circuit for Fuel Tank Flap 
          B1263 01 [008] - Electrical Failure
          Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
 
10064 - Fuel Pump 
          P308D 00 [167] - RPM too Low
          MIL ON - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear

When i pulled out sensor plug for Air mass flow, the warning was shown on the dashboard. When i put i back the air mass warning was gone from dashboard.

 

 

Edited 14 April, 20206 yr by dreamlearn
correction in text

I also tried to enable Battery charge controller and battery regulator in 19 CAN Gateway. After enabling these two modules i tried to read information and only got message "No response from Controller".

Hi. 

The new battery is coded and car works better. It seems that the car never charge the battery to full 100%. But almost 85-90%. And it shows battery charge at 59Ah in VCDS. By pressing the reset button on dash panel it showed the status of 86% on SOC.

 

Fuelpump and fuel pump controller is changed and problem have not occured since that time.

 

Thanks to all of you helping me out.

Edited 26 April, 20206 yr by dreamlearn