Hi Guys.Norm Opening,,Just got our Kodiaq Brand new 02/2020..  Its Kodiaq 2.0 Tdi Auto Edition ..At the same time bought a Proper Electric Towbar..Which I fitted myself..After 20 + years Mechanic  in Main line Dealer's.. Vauxhall...Now its my understanding that U get Car with out Towbar .. Car which is Per-pared ( Wiring front 2 Back Etc. ) No Towbar and Car with Towbar..Easy.. Ours Is the Pre-pared Version.  So only had 2 Fit the Heavy Bit and Plug the Tow bar and Ecu in the wires which were down 2 the N/s Boot area and the Switch ... Told it was Plug & Play..Had small Dought about not having to marry / code the Ecu to the rest of the Vehicle..Fitted it & reconnected Battery..Towbar N/w Working at all and now the front Assist Is Not Active can't even turn off on... So had local Dealership 2 Correct..Q £125 + Vat ( 1.2 Book Time ) 2 code ??  Yet have been told its a Book time of 0.5 Half hour ...Also told there should B No connection between the front Assist and the Towbar so must B separate fault and they can't code the Towbar...  Who and What Do I believe ??    Also There is No Tc Codes from the OBEII ??? Also they Can't Code Marry the Towbar 2 the Vehicle... ????   Any Peeps willing 2 help out Ex Mechanic Pls...   U can't B 2 Tech will Understand...Thanks very much...  Keith Mac..   

Blimey, your writing style is difficult to read, my eyes are stinging 

 

So, your Kodiaq has the tow bar preparation factory option fitted i.e. the wiring from the battery under the bonnet to the boot area?

 

You've bought a brand new genuine factory equivalent tow bar and fitted it yourself?

 

Since fitting the towbar it isn't working (by which I presume when you pull the switch in the boot the swing-down tow ball isn't releasing) and it has also disabled the Front Assist?

 

The dealer claims it isn't simply a case of coding it, there is a fault somewhere?

 

Dealers don't like a lack of fault codes, it means they have to try and work stuff out themselves which some of them find difficult, this has probably resulted in your wallet feeling lighter and the dealer keen to see the back of you.

 

Find a proper auto-electrician would be my advice, preferably one with VAG experience and the proper coding software, or employ a trusted tow bar fitter to retrace your installation. Your money would be better spent with these guys rather than your local Skoda dealer.

 

On the bright side you won't have to rip out the cars interior, the factory installed pre-prep should be sound, the fault (if there is one) is likely to be between the pre-prep and your work in the boot / bumper area.

 

Edited 26 June, 20205 yr by silver1011

I couldn't read it at all I'm afraid 😞

Well done, Silver.

In football parlance silver1011: "The boy done good". One of the best replies I've seen to a question, and to what was indeed a post that wasn't quite as clear as it might be.

Edited 26 June, 20205 yr by SinglePointSafety
Grammar - needed some additional punctuation....

Ok.. Am very Clad All of you who Replied to my Question / Post.. This is Me Thanking all of you..Yet some of you have being as Helpful as Ashtrays on a Motor Bike and for The rest after popping at my writing style.. All I wish for is at Best Now a Bridge to Far...     Also given Some one possible is questing my ability's to fit a Standard Tow-Bar with the Hardest part Inserting 4 x Plugs in to a Plastic Box and Mounting a Tow-Bar Using Pre-Drilled Holes and Cutting a Hole in a Plastic Bumper..Not Forgetting I can follow simple Instruction's with Pictures...               Not Having a Problem when I was Employed as A Test Development Engineer at MillBrookes if you understand what that is.. My only Fault I would understand is not having Access to the Tech Dater a Vag Reader.. Then Yes my Ability's Suck..  I gave Up working in any forms of Mechanical Engineering about 20 years Ago.. As I went down a Different Track..    So Thanks for all your None Advice  ..   Please Only Comment on my Post with Possible Solutions or If you have had any Dealings or Similar Faults...               

Well, I have the towbar and can confirm that it doesn’t involve any hole in the plastic bumper.

 

 

1 minute ago, DaveMiller said:

Well, I have the towbar and can confirm that it doesn’t involve any hole in the plastic bumper.

 

 

Well If it helps I can send U pictures of the Bumper and a Copy of the Instruction / Installation Booklet.. As Not how it would Work with Out a Large gap / Hole for the Drop Ball part of the Tow-Bar to be Used...Helpful???

 

What is MillBrookes? A google search shows up very little

2 minutes ago, captainslogg said:

What is MillBrookes? A google search shows up very little

If yours a Gen question I will respond..  My back is up given the stupid Moronic Replies and as My son has Explained are from Keyboard worriers whom have a Little bit of Knowledge / Information and are quick to criticise and Pop and things they don't either know or understand.. The Rock throwing ability of Moron's..So if you wish to Know I will help you out.. Thanks..   

3 minutes ago, MaccerK said:

If yours a Gen question I will respond..  My back is up given the stupid Moronic Replies and as My son has Explained are from Keyboard worriers whom have a Little bit of Knowledge / Information and are quick to criticise and Pop and things they don't either know or understand.. The Rock throwing ability of Moron's..So if you wish to Know I will help you out.. Thanks..   

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Millbrook_Proving_Ground..   This is a Link 2 Wikipedia..   If U watch Top gear ie Clarkson / May then U wood have seen,, The big round 5 lane High Banked Bowel or the Beligan Prave..  Cobbled Road..   If its still there and is use..  Its the Second Biggest car / Vehicle Proving Ground next to the other owned also by GM in the USA.. 

Calm down a minute and note how well people have tried to answer you.  You started the conversation by assaulting all readers, so things weren’t likely to go well.

 

Initially, I’ll admit, I got as far as “Norm Opening” and wondered who is Norm, and what is he opening?  Silver did a sterling (geddit?) job of translating for us, but you gave him no thanks, nor offered any confirmation of whether his necessary guesses were right.

 

My comment about the hole was to suggest that perhaps it isn’t a genuine Skoda bar that you are trying to fit. Is it?

Please Only Comment on my Post with Possible Solutions or If you have had any Dealings or Similar Faults...  

 

Regrettably I have come across similar faults before, I could see how it was likely to develop.

So as its being pointed out about my Righting Skills and my own Ability's..   Apart from the Title of Master Mechanic / MOT Inspector along with shed loads of All Sorts of different Qualifications .. Then Changing My whole Expertise By going back 2 Collage and Becoming 17 Edition.. Oftec Registered..  All this with out Real Qualifications on leaving School as I was one of the 1st Registered Dyslexic Pupils in the Education System in the 1970s..So Am sorry about my Disadvantage's and if Its caused all Types of Offence's 2 all the Learned People / Members with my Outrageous Writing... All I can Gather from all your Request's / Remarks.. I have this Forum Completely Wrong, As Silly me I thought there would Be owners of similar Vehicles with Possible the Same Faults..        

OK, so you have difficulty writing.  We can look past that. Silver did so, beautifully.

 

To take things forward usefully, he asked you some questions, and I asked you one.

 

You haven’t answered them.  We can’t really help if you don’t answer the questions.

Not Sure where or what the Question is or Even Refers to...  No I will not seek out a Auto Electrician..  Yes its a Proper Genuine V/W Electric operated Swivel Tow-Bar... Which Needs to be Inter-grated with the Kodiaq Body system..     It use's a Code TOWAB yet not having a Full Blown OBE11 Inter-Face unit..  I can Read / Clear codes reset service Lamps..Do running Test Etc..   Yet I can't Access the Right parts 2 Reprogram / Code up elements of the Vehicle and its System's..It seems Skoda & V/W have it set up with out the Right software under Licence It remains Factory only at Mo.. Also it comes with 3 years Warranty which is Nil and Void if ****ed about with.. The supplying Dealer of car & Tow-Bar double checked the correct Information / Parts on My Vehicle..  The Local Dealer is saying the Ecu for the Tow-Bar is incorrect.. There are 2 x Ecu's.. 1 for the EU market and the Other only Australian Market.. They Had tried the Parts fitted are not of Skoda / V/W origin yet sent them the Dealership Invoice which shut them up.. Agreed Dealerships don't like to work and they need things pointed out to them as They are all only Fitters Now..1 of the Reasons I got out when I saw the Writing on the Wall..We have a slight suspicion the local Dealership might have started out with wanting to charge us ,, As they are not the supplying Dealer and or they may think its a Mobility Car, We paid good hard Cash out right £30.000 in Total  ,, My Wife is Now wheelchair Dependent it was in the Rear when they had the Vehicle on Monday just gone..Its then Bitten them in the Ass and they are Struggling to sort it out.. As I have been told Several Direct Lies over this and other Issue's..      

There are 2 Version's of the Kodiaq which U can't even fit a Tow-Bar 2 until its Warranty Expires, They are from 2017 onward which only Relate 2 Getting Emission's Past in the EU Market..If U are concerned.. Look in the Door Jam O/S front door Bottom of B Pillar ( That's the Centre Post Between the Door's ) there should be a Small Sticker with Weights on it..Giving Axle weight and Towing weights.. If that sticker is not present any where on the Vehicle.. Then that Renders the Vehicle unable 2 Tow any thing by Law.. Just a small heads up and a bit of Information...

As for the Comment from Dave Miller about " having Tow-Bar and Not Having a Hole In Bumper " you must have a Pretty early version Probably before the 1st face lift 2017 as all Tow-Bars fitted with that Bumper Require some form of Hole which its a Fixed or Detectable Tow-Bar.. Right up to the Electric type I have as it needs a Big Arch to move in.. Just ask and Like I have already stated I am more than happy to send Images of the Tow-bar Fitted 2 Our Vehicle and I will Even Post the Installation Booklet as I have No more Use for it..U can have it with Pleasure so U can use as Reference Material..    Thanks Keith Mac...                           

OK, Keith, so we now have:

• it’s a genuine VW-group electrically-lowering towbar
• you’ve managed to fit it, physically
• it now needs coding, for the car to connect properly
• the dealer isn’t able/willing to do the coding
• you can’t do it yourself, because you don't have the equipment
• you don’t want an auto-electrician to do it.

If I've got that wrong, please say so.

 

if I've got it right, the question for the forum is:

Have you fitted such a towbar, and how did you get it coded?

 

 

5 minutes ago, DaveMiller said:

OK, Keith, so we now have:

• it’s a genuine VW-group electrically-lowering towbar
• you’ve managed to fit it, physically
• it now needs coding, for the car to connect properly
• the dealer isn’t able/willing to do the coding
• you can’t do it yourself, because you don't have the equipment
• you don’t want an auto-electrician to do it.

If I've got that wrong, please say so.

 

if I've got it right, the question for the forum is:

Have you fitted such a towbar, and how did you get it coded?

Great job deciphering. What I don't understand is why OP has such an aggressive demeanour towards people that are just trying to understand what they're saying.

 

Anyways, the following coding needs to be done for the towbar:

 

STG 19 Gateway

Adaptation: Activate towbar/anhanger

 

STG 10/76 Parking Aid

Long coding: Activate byte 3 bit 1

 

STG 13 ACC (if you have it)

Long coding: Activate byte 3 bit 3

 

STG 6C Rear View Camera

Long coding: Activate byte 4 bit 0

 

STG 6D Tailgate

Long coding: Activate byte 1 bit 7

 

STG 03 Brake Electronics

Adaptation: Trailer Stabilisation - set to active

 

STG A5 Driver Assist Camera

Long coding: Activate byte 11 bit 0

 

STG 3C Lane Change Assist 

Long coding: Deactivate byte 2 bit 4

Long coding: Activate byte 2 bit 5

 

STG 01 Engine Electronics

Long coding: Activate Byte 5 bit 4

 

STG 09 Central Electronics

Adaptation: Towbar/Anhaengeranschulssgeraet - set to installed

 

If DaveMiller's summary is indeed correct, this sounds very similar to the experience of a colleague, who bought a used Superb, fitted his own towbar (Skoda branded) but the local dealer point-blank refused to do the coding, citing "regulations, didn't install it ourselves, can't check it, health & safety, will void warranty etc etc" (he didn't buy the car from them). He went to a friendly, helpful auto electrician, job done, paperwork supplied to say exactly what work had been carried out, useful if/when he sells the car or needs to make a warranty claim. Incidentally, he got the same auto electrician to hard-wire his front and rear dashcams, and I can see it was a very tidy job.....

Yep Millbrook proving ground near Ampthill in Bedfordshire. Done work there a number of times, the last (although almost 20 years ago) on a brand owned by VAG and on a vehicle owned by HRH. Only saying this to show the OP that I do 'kind of' know relevant cars.

 

So on modern VAG vehicles, setting up the coding is everything, and it's not made easy. If you add something to the electrical system, and don't sort out the coding it won't work properly. ZacDaMan72 has posted a list of things that will need to be recoded. I have no reason to doubt that is correct.

 

There are a number of ways to get that coding  sorted. Dealers generally don't want to know, and indeed are often limited by the systems they have. There are alternatives but they vary in price and reliability (one tends to offset the other). For example VCDS seems to be one of the better, but isn't cheap. If you don't want to seek out someone to assist, you are going to have to buy and learn to use one of these systems, in my opinion, or you will be beating your head against a very tough concrete wall. I don't think you will get any other answer from here, no matter how much you want one, because I honestly don't think there is any other answer.

 

BTW, on my 2012 Superb, I fitted my own towbar, having the pre-wiring already fitted from the factory. That included adding the towing electrics ECU (Electronic Control Unit). I coded that with VCDS and then it worked fine with the rest of the vehicle systems (though not a folding one).

 

 

Edited 27 June, 20205 yr by lowedb

My Yeti did not have prewiring or any trailer module, I fitted a cheap towbar and relay interface to avoid the bulb monitoring system problems, I'm quite happy with it but have read with interest all the heated discussions regarding the proper VAG fitment and stability systems etc.

 

Browsing through VCDS I can see where the coding would be done.

 

My question is what control module and wiring etc would I need to add to my vehicle to be able to emulate the towbar prep and to make use of the stability programs etc that exist within the vehicle?

Morning,, Not going 2 Use 2 many Long grouping of words as this may help members who need the Ladybird book lay out...

Ok I have gathered there seems 2 B a school boy mentality going on..Only reading & Taking out of a post what U may understand or just poke with sticks what U don't full understand.. Is Not Helpful.. Yet would probably make U feel important and Probably In Involved Just Copying & Pasting..   

My Original Post was Made up with Vehicle Type / Problem on Vehicle / My ability's / What I have done to my Vehicle / Where & what the Dealerships Have done & I have Been Told..

Then I posted My Question as what & whom do I Believe , Hoping Sensible comments from People who have experienced same or Similar.. It was at the Bottom / End of Post..

Yet I have been Ridiculed and & had my writing style pocked at..Not Reading and Digesting my Post..   Which has Created this some what None Existence I have a Aggressive and Rude Tone 2 other Members even before any replies to my Post..  I wood suggest some should have a close look at your own Replies the wording / grouping Etc ...

Then I have my own Ability's questioned along with been Accused of Lying about what I have done... Even when offering to Prove it..

Also when making Reference to working at Millbrokes,Using the " If U Know What It Is " was if U care 2 read again,,Not Made as a Direct or & Aimed at any 1 Member by Name or Associated 2 that Particular Posting.. A lot of people don't even understand what it is  never mind where.. I find using Top Gear helps 4 some Thou..

Given The Reply from Lowedb with Ref 2 Millbrokes.. Only the Track drivers where on a Daily - Weekly Employment.. If your Face Fit U could come back as Agency employment,,They were not Allowed to work on any Vehicles.. Yet there was Some Vehicles Destined for Royal Use.. But Behind High Fencing and Locked Corner of the Grid...So Not Sure on His Remakes...

So going Forward .. I can't fix this Problem with out the proper VAG Access / Programming.. I know this from the Start.. So unless someone has come across a Laptop Interface allowing me 2 access the ECU programming.. So the List Posted by ZacDaMan is Not alot of Use.. I do how ever Thank Him for his Effort in Helping.. 

Although I don't appreciate this Observation from him as coming Late to the Conversion and not Reading all Postings Before Properly its Not Warranted..   

 " Great job deciphering. What I don't understand is why OP has such an aggressive demeanour towards people that are just trying to understand what they're saying. "

Now My Suggestion 2 all the Members who Initially Replied 2 my Original Post Bar Possibly 1.. Read the Post and Read again and Understand before Making Comment..DON'T  Treat Members New 2 the Group as Children.. Or Just Copy & Paste Information Blindly .. In other words If U don't Know Then U don't KNOW .. Stop Throw stones at things YOU DON'T Understand ....   Sarcastic Comments Normal come from People afraid of Not belonging as they Don't Know....

There has been 2 members of the group who have come across as Sensible and Helpful.. To which I thank U.. I don't have 2 Name U as U will Know who U are...

I can't think of any Comments for the Rest of You who commented on My Post.. Other Than while U concentrated your efforts on My Post's U have Left Other Post's Alone...

     Where needed Find some1 who will gave U a Hug.. Have a Very Good Day and The Rest of a Good Weekend.. Thanks Keith Mac...              

                 

11 hours ago, J.R. said:

My Yeti did not have prewiring or any trailer module, I fitted a cheap towbar and relay interface to avoid the bulb monitoring system problems, I'm quite happy with it but have read with interest all the heated discussions regarding the proper VAG fitment and stability systems etc.

 

Browsing through VCDS I can see where the coding would be done.

 

My question is what control module and wiring etc would I need to add to my vehicle to be able to emulate the towbar prep and to make use of the stability programs etc that exist within the vehicle?

Thank U...   As yourself.. Not sure where 2 Turn..  As I could end up with problems with the V/W warranty if I get a Auto Electrician 2 help.. In particular 2 the View replacing faulty EC Units if they are U/s from the start...   How do U prove its not your fault its faulty after attempting to Reprogram the Unit.. Catch 22...   

     

You've got yourself in a pickle, Keith.  

 

Warning:  what I'm about to write may annoy you.  Take a deep breath and read it carefully, though.  It's intended to help you, not "get at you".

 

We understand that you have a problem writing.  You need to understand, though, that when you write, people have a problem reading it.  It might not be your fault, but it's not their fault, either.

 

It really is difficult to understand you when you don't leave any gaps, when you use strange phrases, when you use punctuation that people don't understand, and so on.  Just a small example:  a single-dot-followed-by-space (full stop) has a specific meaning, that we all immediately understand, without even thinking.  A row of space-threedots-space (an ellipsis) has a completely different meaning, that again we all understand.  We really don't automatically know what nospace-twodots-nospace means, though.  And therefore our mental process of reading comes crashing to a stop. We can work it out, sure - but that takes time and effort.  It's not a matter of "grammar rules", it's a matter of what you write coming over as a dense mass of unrelated word salad.  And the whole post seems to be said in one breath, which - strangely - makes the reader feel out of breath, too.

 

OK, so you find it difficult, but unfortunately it comes over as bloody rude.  If you walked up to a stranger in a pub and spoke like that, two things might happen:  at best, they just would't understand;  at worst, they'd punch you in the face.  We can guess that that's not what you intend, but you need to realise that.

 

You are taking people's comments as negative, when for the most part they have simply said, in a notably polite way, that they can't understand you.  You've then gone on at enormous length on stuff that actually has no bearing whatsoever on the problem you have with the towbar.  Yes, you're expressing your frustration - but that becomes frustrating for the readers!

 

I hope you can get your towbar sorted.  

 

 

 

 

2 hours ago, MaccerK said:

So going Forward .. I can't fix this Problem with out the proper VAG Access / Programming.. I know this from the Start.. So unless someone has come across a Laptop Interface allowing me 2 access the ECU programming.. So the List Posted by ZacDaMan is Not alot of Use.. I do how ever Thank Him for his Effort in Helping.. 

 

There are plenty of members on the forum who own VCDS, including myself. As I'm also in Norfolk, I'm probably not that far away from you depending exactly where you're based.

 

I'm happy to follow the instructions given by ZacDaMan72. However, you have to realise that the control module software version do change frequently so although the instructions may be perfect for another Kodiaq, it does not mean they'll be correct for yours. I'll take the normal sensible precautions, namely taking an autoscan and also adaption maps from any module I make changes to. At least this way, you know what changes have been made and can revert them if needed. I cannot guarantee success but I can certainly take a look.

 

Otherwise, you're more than welcome to try coding it yourself with my interface. If you've not used VCDS, I wouldn't recommend this option as its trivial to create problems rather than fix them 

 

2 hours ago, MaccerK said:

As I could end up with problems with the V/W warranty if I get a Auto Electrician 2 help.. In particular 2 the View replacing faulty EC Units if they are U/s from the start...   How do U prove its not your fault its faulty after attempting to Reprogram the Unit.. Catch 22...   

 

Just to point out, any changes that either of us make are completely at your own risk. I am not a business and I accept no liability for any issues either directly or indirectly caused by using VCDS on your vehicle.

 

Don't get me wrong, I'm not expecting any problems. I've worked on 10's of vehicles, including my own, without issue but if warranty and liability are something your concerned about, you should use a dealer or garage that's familiar with this style of retrofit.