I have received a quote a stage 3 upgrade from stock.

 

It includes a stage 3 clutch. I'm just wondering what this would be like to live with day to day?

 

Any horror stories or happy customers?

 

It's a revo stage 3 map by Auto tec performance in paisley.

 

Any advice would be very welcome. 

 

Total cost is around 5 grand. 

I have no experience of stage 3 but most people on here have said that stage 1 is about right for the Octavia. Stage 2 induces extra wheelspin and isnt that much quicker. If it was an R or S3 etc with 4wd then no real issue pitting the power down in all weathers. Not sure what figures stage 3 puts out but I would be questioning reliability over useability. Also how long you want to keep the car plus re sale value. Also if the car is on HP or PCP then make sure you ask the lender if you can modify it. If they find out it has been modified they may cancel the finance and request full payment. If the car is purchased cash or loan then no issue as the car is legally yours.

Presumably this would be this setup - and therefore the additional hardware installs would include IS38 turbo, intake kit, turbo-back exhaust, intercooler, uprated clutch, big brake kit... The eventual output on their example power graphs show figures upwards of 360-80 BHP with 520+ NM torque.

 

Additional hardware you'd want would definitely include a lower engine mount (poly- or billet steel), otherwise it'll wheelhop like mad under load (and obviously decent tyres - at least 235/35 to put that power down). Anti-roll bars and potentially lowered springs (H&R / Eibach etc) are a good shout too, to stiffen the chassis and lower centre of gravity respectively if you're looking to actually use that additional power and speed.

 

The only Stage 3 EA888 VAG car I know / have been in to relate is a friend's manual Mk7.5 Golf R and that's obviously 4WD. It properly shifts, but his clutch is basically ON/OFF when moving through slow traffic - and has to put decent revs down to avoid stalling. But then again it doesn't slip at all under power. I just worry for his driveshafts! 😅

 

I've gone stage "1.5" (or Racingline's OEM+ before it was called that, with some additional modifications) and to be honest that's enough power to properly shift without being too silly, or affecting reliability over usability. It obviously depends what you're looking to use it for of course, but as I'm basically 99% road-driving then getting to illegal speeds takes literally no time at all.

 

Would be interesting to hear / see your experience of it if you go through with it.

Edited 16 July, 20205 yr by Ads230

Thanks all. It has a differential which should improve the ability to lay down power however I'm losing faith in the build as they are struggling to find parts and there was no mention of a new turbo on the quote.

 

At the very least I think I will stage 1 it and see how I go. 

 

The clutch was a major concern as it's still a family car and a manual I have been assured that it will be fine. I'll share the quote and keep you posted.

 

Should find out in a matter of days.

22 hours ago, Ads230 said:

Presumably this would be this setup - and therefore the additional hardware installs would include IS38 turbo, intake kit, turbo-back exhaust, intercooler, uprated clutch, big brake kit... The eventual output on their example power graphs show figures upwards of 360-80 BHP with 520+ NM torque.

 

Additional hardware you'd want would definitely include a lower engine mount (poly- or billet steel), otherwise it'll wheelhop like mad under load (and obviously decent tyres - at least 235/35 to put that power down). Anti-roll bars and potentially lowered springs (H&R / Eibach etc) are a good shout too, to stiffen the chassis and lower centre of gravity respectively if you're looking to actually use that additional power and speed.

 

The only Stage 3 EA888 VAG car I know / have been in to relate is a friend's manual Mk7.5 Golf R and that's obviously 4WD. It properly shifts, but his clutch is basically ON/OFF when moving through slow traffic - and has to put decent revs down to avoid stalling. But then again it doesn't slip at all under power. I just worry for his driveshafts! 😅

 

I've gone stage "1.5" (or Racingline's OEM+ before it was called that, with some additional modifications) and to be honest that's enough power to properly shift without being too silly, or affecting reliability over usability. It obviously depends what you're looking to use it for of course, but as I'm basically 99% road-driving then getting to illegal speeds takes literally no time at all.

 

Would be interesting to hear / see your experience of it if you go through with it.

What did is cost you roughly if you don't mind me asking?  I really like the octavia I don't want to destroy the stock ride quality for power I can't use. 

On 17/07/2020 at 09:48, Drmk3 said:

What did is cost you roughly if you don't mind me asking?

Sorry for late reply! 

Map was bought when old Shark had a deal on, so I think it was £399 for a remote Stage 1 tune with Adam at AW Tuning in Sidcup. Then, when there was the only minor niggle with the EMS light, I went along to MK once they'd been bought by Racingline to get it checked out and calibrated to the additional components I'd added to it - but that was FoC, due to excellent customer service.

 

Outside of that, the suspension, intake, engine mount, rear ARB, and exhaust was 'spenny' (all in all) - think about £5k in total, parts and labour. I know Revo and other tuning co.'s do packs / selection of parts which take cars up to Stage 2 - which is basically about as far as I'd take a FWD EA888 platform. It really depends what you want it for.

 

For the most part, Octy III VRS petrol owners go for similar approaches (i.e. suspension, at least Stage 1 for more linear power, exhaust). My objective was basically "understated optimisation" - so faster and more linear power delivery, less 'wallowy' handling and lower ride height etc. Depends on what you want to go for but definitely review the options as to whether you go for 1 'packed' service from 1 tuning company, or go for a mix.

Edited 20 July, 20205 yr by Ads230

my clutch started to slip ~10k miles after a stage 1 remap. uprated sachs clutch and fitting was about 1k. it is a bit heavier than before but you adadt very quickly to it.

14 minutes ago, encephalopathy said:

my clutch started to slip ~10k miles after a stage 1 remap. uprated sachs clutch and fitting was about 1k. it is a bit heavier than before but you adadt very quickly to it.

Good point - my stock clutch (at 39k miles now) only slips when accelerating in inappropriate (too high) gears on the motorway under the increased torque, but is solid when pulling away in 1st through 3rd.

 

At some point I'll replace it with a Sachs system, but only when it's in for more work as it'd be inefficient for me at the moment.